Install w/ pics (under)tail, rear sets, pipes

jay21112

Registered
Just got the bike back from having a little work done to it. So it’s time to share.
Like the title says, I have 47 pics to post, so if you start replying before I’m finished, don’t be angry if you don’t get a reply.

Some of these things I had already bought and posted on, but they were remounted, so that’s why I’ll talk about them again.

Here is the list:
Zero gravity SR Windscreen (painted)
Passport 8500 X50 Radar Detector
Blinder M-20 X-treme Laser Jammer
PMR-50 Stealth Barswitch and bolt kit
Bluegauges.com Red clock and odometer LCD’s
Bluegauges.com bright needles
Bluegauges.com Red neutral, high beam, and directionals
Speedohealer V3EXT with topspeed recall
Speedhut.com 220mph custom gauges and inverter switch
Sato Racing black rearsets
Shorty mufflers
Catalystracingcomposites.com Smoothie Tail
Passenger pegs and exhaust hangers removed
Black nylon license plate fasteners
Hightechspeed UFO Taillight integrator
Tiger Racing Tiger Tail Extended Inner Fender
Dynojet PCRIIIUSB
Battery terminal block in trunk
YUASA YTZ14S 235 CCA Battery
Custom battery mount
Custom tail compartment, waterproofed

Here goes. I’ll basically post the pics and give as many details as possible about each one, without going too crazy.

Pic 1: Zero Gravity SR Clear Windscreen:
Here you go, new in plastic. This is the second one I have bought as the bike fell over during transport last year and cracked the windscreen. Let’s hope this is the last one I will have to buy.

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Pic 2: Here is the windscreen painted to match the bike, with a window to allow the Passport 8500 X50 and Blinder M-20 X-treme full view of the road. Let’s hope I’ll never need either, but this is reality folks…. Anyways this was done on my old windscreen as well, but the window was a little smaller. I had the shop paint a bigger window this time to allow the Blinder full visibility.

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Pic 4: Here is the custom box that was made last year and transferred over to the new windscreen. Don’t ask me how they removed it and transferred it, but here it is, in all it’s glory!  Also in this pic is the PMR barswitch on the left handlebar. This thing is trick. I don’t ride my bike every day, but yet I keep the alarm on it all the time (you never know). So my last battery was pretty weak and after a few days I would have to put the charger on the bike to get it started. So once I saw this barswitch, I hopped all over it. I had the shop wire the HID’s and gauges into one switch, and the Radar detector, laser jammer, and HARD unit into the other. That way when I’m starting the bike, I can have all the electronics off so the starter can have full power. Once the bike is started, just a flip of the switch (times 2) gives me everything I ever needed……except a rearview camera…but that will come….

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Pic 5: The flash washed out this pic, but you can see the Bluegauges.com red LCD display in the clock. I switched all the dash lights out for red ones, which you’ll see in a few.

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Pic 6: The inverter for the gauges is tucked up inside here. Not much place to put it. I really didn’t need access to it, so I could have put it inside the fairing, but better safe than sorry, so if I do need it, there it is, (but still out of the way). Can you spot the other thing in the picture….nope it’s not Waldo, but it is the top speed recall switch for the speedohealer. Wonder why when it’s pressed the speedo hits 175? I thought our bikes went 184? Oh well, there is always tomorrow...

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Pic 7: Night-time pics aren’t the greatest, but at least you can see everything light up. You can barely notice the radar detector lit up. I have it on scanning mode, so there isn’t much display. You can also see the blaring red neutral light.

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Pic 8: Here you can see the gauges a little bit better. Note the bright needles, (left) turn signal and high beam lights…all red.

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Pic 10: Here is the PMR barswitch kit. I love PMR. They have such good ideas. I heard they now have a switch on the right side as well. If I ever get some LED’s to accent my bike, I’ll pick that switch up and wire them in. All in time, I guess…

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Pic 11: Here is the rear of the barswitch. The shop that did the install makes everything tidy. Notice the wire covering, and superfluous use of electrical tape and zip ties. You’ll see more of this once we get to the trunk. It almost brings a tear to my eye.

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Pic 12: Here are the Sato Rearsets before installation. I’m drooling just looking at the pic…and I own these things! I chose the Sato rearsets because…well…they come in black. Is that a stupid reason? Well, how about they have all the options I could want and are extremely high quality. Did I say they were beautiful?

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Pic 13: Here is the brake side. I’m having some trouble adjusting it high enough. It seems to want to stay low, but when I ride, I feel like it should be higher. I can’t remember how high (or low) the stock brake pedal was though. Oh, well, at least this is so much prettier.

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Pic 14: Here is a close-up of the shift side. Note that in this position (position 5) it is 35mm up and 30 mm back. So much better than stock!!

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Pic 15: Here are some shorty “mufflers†I bought off an org member. I won’t say who because, well…they sucked. The org member gave me what I thought was a good price, but in actuality to anybody else these probably wouldn’t be worth the lint you find in your dryer. I was able to make them work, so to ME it was money well spend. But the deal is, this is how they came (he painted them black like I asked, but look close and you’ll see where the paint is all messed up). Anyways, I put these suckers on the bike when I come home and the bike is up on stands for 3 days when I do other stuff to it. (adjust rearsets, paint some bolts, etc...). So the kickstand is always down. Then before I take it off the stands, for some odd reason, I put the kickstand up…..and it hits the muffler! I mean not just by a little bit, it outright hits like halfway down on the damned pipe! What needed to be done was to give the pipe a slanted cut to allow the kickstand to clear. However I wanted to keep the opening, so I just cut them shorter. Unfortunately this had a “diminishing returns†rule, as every inch I cut off of it only made it come into the bike ½ inch (these numbers are not actual, but representative of the truth). So anyways, look at the pic and look at the yellow lines. This is where I had to cut the pipes.
………What, “one pipe is longer than the other,†you say? Well that’s because they sit on the header differently on each side, so the pipes have to be different lengths to stick out from the bike equally on each side. “But the pipes started out the same length,†you say? Yup, just another reason why they suck.
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)  But again, now that they are cut, I love them, and they did the trick for me. One last note is that I shot them with several coats of high-heat black. While the seller painted them black, he did not specify if it was high-heat black or not. So better safe than sorry…

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Pic 18: A little pulled back to give you a better look at the overall aesthetics of the pipe. Also notice the catalystracingcomposites smoothie tail section (no feature holes, or cut-outs for exhaust hangers/passenger pegs). Basically, I wanted to remove the mufflers to lose weight (and to make it louder…I believe loud pipes save lives, you may not, but I don’t want to debate), and then the bike looked like crap with these rear pegs hanging out in nowheresville. So I removed them and realized there were still cut-outs in the tail section = crap. So I bought the smoothie tail and all is good. I think the bike really looks cleaned up. MotoGP here I come. Wonder if I’ll buy a thumb-brake next year. Hmmm.
Anyways next year I’m going to redo the whole rear end of the bike (suspension, brakes, swingarm) and lower the hell out of the sucker. Therefore I may have rear pegs welded onto the swingarm. I think that will look much cleaner, especially if I have them fold out of the way.

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Pic 19: And here you can see how far the mufflers stick out. Take a look above the tail-light. What do you see? I’ll get to that in a few pics.

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