Did mine last night with a couple friends. Vortex sliders - 55 bucks ... 1/10 the cost of new plastic on one side only ... somebody pushed my bike over at Wallyworld 2 weeks ago ... arrggghhhh!!!
1. We used a level with a laser in it taped to a ladder - then followed the procedure as outlined above in this (and other threads). Thanks to rrookey and monster for the ideas - either bolt method or laser.
2. We used a 1 and 3/4 inch hole saw
- tape the marks first - rehung the plastics with ALL the bolts to hold it right.
3. We drilled a very small - like 3 mm or 1/8 in pilot hole (not exact conversion there) ... and stuck a T handle hex key in the itty bitty hole to make sure that we had the engine frame bolt hole lined up - you can reach in the fairing with your hand and feel it in the very back of the hole ...
4. Then we took the big hole saw and VERY VERY slowly drilled the fairing ... we used the laser dot still shining on the back of the drill to get the angle right - as in the laser was shining in the hole and so we thought if it lines up with the back of the drill - we KNEW the angles were good
5. We discussed heating up the plastic with a hair dryer so that it would be pliable and not brittle ... but it was 68 degrees ambient (Fl under tornado watch - no kidding)
6. Used a dremel tool with a drum sander - fine - to get rid of the little boogers
7. It really worked well ... there is little to no gap around the sliders ... little concerned there as I've seen folks post that it might crack the fairing ... dunno - if anyone does - IM me!! lol. Rode the bike to work/back today = 40 miles and it was great ... the fairings can still flex and move slightly but its not a 2 inch hole like the dealer uses.
8. I am looking to put some plastic or trim around the holes ... that would mean dremelling it out a bit ... any ideas on what to use? Saw one post with windsreen trim?
9. Torque the engine bolts to 41 ft lbs. No, the engine doesn't fall out (thanks Monster) as its held in by multiple other bolts.
10. What else - oh, the right side takes the longer 70mm bolt and it sticks out farther when done ... cause the engine bolt on that side has a cylinder that allows you to adjust the engine in the frame. Left side bolt is 10 mm shorter or 60mm. Used blue or medium strength bolt "glue" ... the bike was on stands front and back so it couldn't move and we taped the ladder to the floor after adjusting up/down and fore/aft. It took 2 beers or 2 hours both sides plastics off, laser, plastics on, much feeling around, pilot hole, big hole, dremel trim, plastics off, install sliders with blue, torque, plastics on ... drink another libation ... thank friends ... put tools away ... heave large sigh!!!
Pics to follow - sorry don't know how to post multiples - newbie here ...
Hope it works ... by the way - I have learned so much from this site ... here is my small way to post something back ... send me a note if you have questions / comments.