Drill bit for frame slider install

cougar694u

Registered
I was curious what bit (size & style) you used for your frame slider installs.

I've got my fairings marked, but was looking for some input as far as the type of bit you used to it.

I was planning on using a smaller hole-saw bit, then dremel it out to fit.

Any pointers/suggestions?
 
Dremel will over heat the plastic, I say just use the correct size hole saw. Or do what I did have the dealer install them, so if the plastics get F'ed up its their problem. My dealer only charger $50 to install them.
 
i do not have the numbers with me but i went with a smaller hole saw, the sliders are very close to my fairing, some say this will cause the fairing to flex and break, so far i have not seen a problem with it.
 
Depends on what size sliders you have (make/model). I have yet to install mine (still in box) but have been told to drill fairings while on the bike to ensure a proper (90 degree to ground) drill angle.
 
I watched my dealer install mine, it went like this:
1. Remove faring, Cut away insulation where hole will be drilled
2. Remove top engine mounting bolt
3. Install bolt with head cut off and sharpened
4. Install faring and press against point of bolt installed in step #3
5. Remove faring and drill small pilot hole where mark was made from point
6. Reinstall faring and drill out with hole saw keeping drill level
7. File edges of holes
8. Blow out any shavings
9. Bolt on frame sliders
 
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 27 2007,10:15) I watched my dealer install mine, it went like this:
1. Remove faring, Cut away insulation where hole will be drilled
2. Remove top engine mounting bolt
3. Install bolt with head cut off and sharpened
4. Install faring and press against point of bolt installed in step #3
5. Remove faring and drill small pilot hole where mark was made from point
6. Reinstall faring and drill out with hole saw keeping drill level
7. File edges of holes
8. Blow out any shavings
9. Bolt on frame sliders
very good directions.
i used a laser on mine. your ways is easier
 
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 27 2007,08:15) I watched my dealer install mine, it went like this:
1. Remove faring, Cut away insulation where hole will be drilled
2. Remove top engine mounting bolt
3. Install bolt with head cut off and sharpened
4. Install faring and press against point of bolt installed in step #3
5. Remove faring and drill small pilot hole where mark was made from point
6. Reinstall faring and drill out with hole saw keeping drill level
7. File edges of holes
8. Blow out any shavings
9. Bolt on frame sliders
QUESTION:

How long should the pointed bolt be?

Too short and it won't make a mark...too long and you won't be able to get the fairing back on for a proper point placement.
 
(Over_Easy @ Feb. 27 2007,11:43)
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 27 2007,08:15) I watched my dealer install mine, it went like this:
1. Remove faring, Cut away insulation where hole will be drilled
2. Remove top engine mounting bolt
3. Install bolt with head cut off and sharpened
4. Install faring and press against point of bolt installed in step #3
5. Remove faring and drill small pilot hole where mark was made from point
6. Reinstall faring and drill out with hole saw keeping drill level
7. File edges of holes
8. Blow out any shavings
9. Bolt on frame sliders
QUESTION:

How long should the pointed bolt be?

Too short and it won't make a mark...too long and you won't be able to get the fairing back on for a proper point placement.
The dealer had the bolt already set up I think there was a pc of tape on it to keep it from threading in too far, Dont know how long but you could get an idea from where the faring bolts on to the bike, the point would have to stick out past that.
 
good info there. thanks got to get me some sliders now
 
I still think the Laser leveler or pointer method woks the best. I used the 2" Hole saw for mine, and added the rubber grommets.
 
(Punisher @ Feb. 27 2007,12:30) I still think the Laser leveler or pointer method woks the best.  I used the 2" Hole saw for mine, and added the rubber grommets.
So will any type of cheap little hand held laser do?

If so, how much and where do you get one?
 
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 27 2007,08:15) I watched my dealer install mine, it went like this:
1. Remove faring, Cut away insulation where hole will be drilled
2. Remove top engine mounting bolt
3. Install bolt with head cut off and sharpened
4. Install faring and press against point of bolt installed in step #3
5. Remove faring and drill small pilot hole where mark was made from point
6. Reinstall faring and drill out with hole saw keeping drill level
7. File edges of holes
8. Blow out any shavings
9. Bolt on frame sliders
This is how I did mine. It workd perfectly.
 
I went to Wal-mart and picked up a keychain laser pointer with a magnet on the end.

1. Placed the pointer on a metal stand pointed level with the ground.

2. I then put the bike up the front and rear stands and took the plastics off.

3. Lined up the laser pointer level to the center of the bold head and then put the plastics back on.

4. Used masking tape to tape off the plastics around the laser dot, and marked with a Sharpie.

5. Took the plastics back off and checked to make sure the pointer is still on the center of the bolt.

6. Used a 2" black and decker hole saw drilling perpindicular to how the plastics go on.

7. Put the rubber grommets in the holes after removing the tape (remove tape very carefully, not to peal paint or decals).

8. Removed engine bolts, and put plastics back on bike.

9. Then using Thread Locker I slid the frame sliders in the grommets and tightened down to torque specs.

all finished.
 
Thanks for the replies. I had planned on marking them just how it was post by installing the bolt, then using it to 'punch' the plastic.

Never thought of the laser pointer, but good idea none the less.
 
Did mine last night with a couple friends. Vortex sliders - 55 bucks ... 1/10 the cost of new plastic on one side only ... somebody pushed my bike over at Wallyworld 2 weeks ago ... arrggghhhh!!!
1. We used a level with a laser in it taped to a ladder - then followed the procedure as outlined above in this (and other threads). Thanks to rrookey and monster for the ideas - either bolt method or laser.
2. We used a 1 and 3/4 inch hole saw
SHOCKED.gif
- tape the marks first - rehung the plastics with ALL the bolts to hold it right.
3. We drilled a very small - like 3 mm or 1/8 in pilot hole (not exact conversion there) ... and stuck a T handle hex key in the itty bitty hole to make sure that we had the engine frame bolt hole lined up - you can reach in the fairing with your hand and feel it in the very back of the hole ...
4. Then we took the big hole saw and VERY VERY slowly drilled the fairing ... we used the laser dot still shining on the back of the drill to get the angle right - as in the laser was shining in the hole and so we thought if it lines up with the back of the drill - we KNEW the angles were good
5. We discussed heating up the plastic with a hair dryer so that it would be pliable and not brittle ... but it was 68 degrees ambient (Fl under tornado watch - no kidding)
6. Used a dremel tool with a drum sander - fine - to get rid of the little boogers
7. It really worked well ... there is little to no gap around the sliders ... little concerned there as I've seen folks post that it might crack the fairing ... dunno - if anyone does - IM me!! lol. Rode the bike to work/back today = 40 miles and it was great ... the fairings can still flex and move slightly but its not a 2 inch hole like the dealer uses.
8. I am looking to put some plastic or trim around the holes ... that would mean dremelling it out a bit ... any ideas on what to use? Saw one post with windsreen trim?
9. Torque the engine bolts to 41 ft lbs. No, the engine doesn't fall out (thanks Monster) as its held in by multiple other bolts.
10. What else - oh, the right side takes the longer 70mm bolt and it sticks out farther when done ... cause the engine bolt on that side has a cylinder that allows you to adjust the engine in the frame. Left side bolt is 10 mm shorter or 60mm. Used blue or medium strength bolt "glue" ... the bike was on stands front and back so it couldn't move and we taped the ladder to the floor after adjusting up/down and fore/aft. It took 2 beers or 2 hours both sides plastics off, laser, plastics on, much feeling around, pilot hole, big hole, dremel trim, plastics off, install sliders with blue, torque, plastics on ... drink another libation ... thank friends ... put tools away ... heave large sigh!!!


Pics to follow - sorry don't know how to post multiples - newbie here ...
Hope it works ... by the way - I have learned so much from this site ... here is my small way to post something back ... send me a note if you have questions / comments.

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See the laser dot shining in the last pic? jeez guess I could have said that there ... this one should be tape with the laser dot ...

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No pic of drilling the small pilot hole - which was VERY helpful keeping the bigger bit in the hole saw going in the right place - no pic either of the laser on the back of the drill but it was there ... here is the big saw - GO SLOW! Hold drill firmly as it bites on one side and then the other ... if that makes sense ...

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Looks scarier than it was ... just steay very slow pressure ... there were NO chips or paint flecks due to the drilling or when the (new) tape came off ... ambient temp was 68 degrees ..

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Sorry I'm commenting on the pic that I just posted but I can't see the d@#$ things before I post em ... last pic ... after hole drilled - see the laser still pointing in the engine mount bolt hole? Guess we didn't miss ... we had an interesting discussion about how eye surgeons must feel carving up somebody's eyeballs ... BIG kahonas!! No dremel pics - trimming ... sorry.

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