DIY lowering

[02zrex]

Hey guys

Here is a little tech story some friends and I put together. Its in the march 2wheel Tuner. I left out the story parts so you just get the important stuff. I got to give some thanks to Cal Coast Motorsports in Ventura for loaning me a Busa for three days so i could do this story. The guys at PPM Custom in North Carolina set us up with the parts, and the stuff is nice! Here is the contact info and parts list, photos and caption in posts to come (as I finish the web conversion)


PPM Custom’s adjustable rear lowering links (#SUZ100303-001/6oz) $32.99 in polished billet.

PPM’s lowering top clamp in chrome billet (#SUZ020604-001/3) $175.

PPM adjustable polished sidestand (#SUZ011603B/2) for $149.99


PPM Custom
Manufacturer of Billet accessories and custom stretched swingarms
2222-F Patterson St.
Greensboro, NC 27407
www.ppmcustom.com

Cal-Coast Motorsports
Multi-line dealer and full bike service center
5455 Walker St.
Ventura CA 93003
Phone: 805-642-0900
www.calcoastmotorsports.com

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusastock: Here is our stock Hayabusa, courtesy of the guys at Cal Coast Motorsports. It’s big, it’s fast, and it’s a bit tall in our humble opinion.

Lowerbusa01: Since we will be working on the ground without a bike stand, the side stand is the best place to start. You will need to get someone to help hold the bike for you while you do this, it’s a good idea to recruit them for the afternoon because you will need them again later.

Lowerbusa02: Here is the PPM adjustable side stand, notice the split ring holding in the adjustment pin. Remove this ring carefully and replace it with a piece of safety wire or a paper clip to make the adjustment easier. We will reinstall the split ring once the lowering is complete

Lowerbusa03: Have your friend hold the bike while you pry the stock springs off the side stand. The spring is under the least tension when the side stand is in the up position but be very careful not to send it flying into your face or eyes.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa04: Remove the 14mm nut on the top of the stand first, then remove the pivot bolt with a 17mm wrench or socket.

Lowerbusa05: Since the bike is still at stock height, adjust the new stand to the same length as the old one, notice the paperclip holding the pin in place.

Lowerbusa06: Lubricate the pivot bolt with a little Justice Brothers aerosol white lithium grease before installing the new stand.

Lowerbusa07: Slide the new stand into position and thread the bolt through the mount tab. Make sure the bolt’s collar is fitting properly into the stand before you tighten it. Tighten the bolt first then reinstall and tighten the nut.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa08: Getting the spring on without scratching the stand is a little tough. Be careful not to slip and cut yourself on the sharp spring ends, a pair of work gloves are a good idea for this step.

Lowerbusa09: With the new stand installed, we can start on lowering the front.

Lowerbusa10: Remove the 8mm master cylinder bolts from both the clutch and brake and gently rest both on the fairing to access the handle bar bolts.

Lowerbusa11:The outside bolts pass through notches in the handle bar tubes to prevent them from falling out if left loose, so you will have to remove the bolts entirely to get the bars out. Leave the bars loose in the clamps for now.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa12: The top clamp is held on with four Allen bolts with nuts and washers under the clamp. Pry off the Allen bolt covers and remove the bolts with an Allen wrench on top and a 14mm wrench on the bottom.

Lowerbusa13: With the bolts out, lift the clamp off as you slide the handle bar tubes out of it. Be sure to remove and save the plastic bushings that go around each fork, you will need them if you ever want to return the bike to stock.

Lowerbusa14: Here is the stock clamp next to the PPM clamp. The holes over the forks allow the front end to be lowered and adjusted easily, unlike the stock piece.

Lowerbusa15: Slide the bars into the new clamp before setting it in position with the stock bolts, a little white lithium grease on the bars and clamp makes this much easier.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa16: The outside bolt will only fit into the clamp with the bars in the right position so if it’s not going in, don’t try to force it. Get the bars rotated into correct position before tightening the bolts.

Lowerbusa17: Tighten the top bolts of the master cylinders before the bottom bolts. With the bars, clutch and brake installed, tighten the top clamp evenly in a cross pattern.

Lowerbusa18: Since the front adjustment is dependant on the rear, we will do the linkage before finishing the front. Here is the stock linkage with the lower rear cowl removed, we will be using the fairing bracket to raise and lower the bike while we install the new linkage.

Lowerbusa19: Hold the bolt head with a 14mm wrench while you loosen the 19mm nut with a breaker bar. If you can’t quite get enough muscle to get it loose, try a pry bar between the tire and the breaker bar to multiply your strength. This is a risky option so be careful.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa20: With the linkage bolts loose support the bike with a floor jack and pull the out bolts and links. To get the top bolt out, push the steel collar into the frame away from the link, this will give you enough clearance to remove the bolt without pulling the exhaust.

Lowerbusa21: The longer the link, the lower the bike, we used the last hole to get the maximum drop. Use the jack to lower the bike and align the holes for the stock bolts and nuts. Be sure the bolts and nuts are on the same side they were originally.

Lowerbusa22: Here is how it looks with the bolts tight and the bike off the jack.

Lowerbusa23: Up at the top clamp, measure the stock position of the forks for reference and write it down somewhere safe, inside the front cover of the owner’s manual is a good place.

 

[02zrex]

Lowerbusa24: These lower clamp bolts will need to be loosened first. Depending on your tools, you might find it easier to do this from the top or bottom but it can usually be done without removing the fairing.

Lowerbusa25: With the bottom bolts loose, use the top bolt to carefully allow the fork to slide up in the clamp, we dropped our front about two inches.

Lowerbusa26: Here is the finished top clamp after all the top and bottom clamp bolts have been retightened. Be sure to adjust the side stand for the bike’s new, lower stance and install the split ring into the adjusting pin.

Lowerbusa27: Here is the finished product, and we did it in one afternoon for less then most bike payments

 

[BigGeorge]

That was a GREAT walk-thru... thank you for sharing!

 

[02zrex]

I figured I should make my first post a good one

 

[basscrazy]

Excellent Post!!!!

 

[KRUZIN]

Great post, but where did you get the parts from? Just incase some of the members want to purchase them. Never mind ,my bad I noticed the web site addresses at the top of page got all caught up in the pics.. Thanks

 

[rockadaous]

saw it in 2wheel tuner. Excellent.

looks like PPM Customs is right around the corner from me

 

[02zrex]

Get over there and check em out, I work with those guys doing magazine stories and product photos, the parts are really well made.

Next months 2wheel tuner cover bike is a Hayabusa that PPM just built

 

[05BusaLe]

Good job

 

[frisbee]

Very good first post And lowered busa's look great!!

 

[DR1300R]

Good walk thru..

 

[fsusux]

Welcome to the .org! Keep posting good stuff like that and we might just keep you!

 

[02zrex]

(fsusux @ Feb. 14 2007,14:37) Welcome to the .org!  Keep posting good stuff like that and we might just keep you!

Even though I ride a ZRX?  well shoot then I might just have to dig up some more tech for ya

 

[Hayabusa4life]