Ok, a couple of questions. Please bear with me...
I purchased a LC-1 and gauge. I will be installing it this weekend. I have the Data logging flasher from Smithabusa (awesome to deal with and great customer service). I have played with the auto tune using the stock sensor but not comfortable...
Ok, a couple of questions. Please bear with me...
I purchased a LC-1 and gauge. I will installing it this weekend. I have the Data logging flasher from Smithabusa (awesome to deal with and great customer service). I have played with the auto tune using the stock sensor but not comfortable with...
Race boots usually have soft thin sole and a padded yet soft area for the shifter. I think it gives you a better feel for foot position and shifter engagement.
As for the rear brake, I never use it on the track. Under. Hard braking the tear tire unloads and brake force becomes virtually non...
I personally couldn't imagine wearing rental leathers. I know how sweaty mine get.... also very that if you crash you don't have to buy them anyway. That would suck as i'm sure you wouldnt get to keep them. There are some decent brands that can be found for fairly cheap. Not to mention, it isn't...
Also, not required to disconnect the tail light, you can just tape over it. But it may still be visible.
Disconnecting the headlight isn't a bad idea either. The glue on the tape can get messy after a few hours of headlight heat
People tend to fixate on it. If I come up behind you and have picked my line around you, it often will spook the person overtaking when you suddenly hit the brakes. Just an unnecessary distraction. Usually not required but more of a curteousy to others.
Every track is a little different but here are some basics req by most tracks:
Full leathers - 1 pc preferred but 2 pc zipped together acceptable
Quality race oriented gloves- no cheapos
Boots- must cover the ankle
Back protector- the thin foam inside the jacket does not count. A quality...
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