Recent content by McyMike

Don't know about running without the cans (why?). Cost for the cam deal was 100.00 for a used intake and labor was 150.00 to check and shim both intake and exhaust.

Your not geting 15-20 by swapping intake/exhaust.  I picked up 4 Hp on a bike with 8K miles If you're going to do it I would swap them when you go in for valve check/service...takes the mechanic about the same amount of time and will save you some $$.

Thanks - installed a Dyna shift counter so I can spray in 2 & 3 without having to push the botton..and just concentrate on riding the bike off the line. Was concerned that by bypassing the MPS I would have a lean condition with NOS (don't want that), becuase I was pretty much dead on on the dyno...

EK non - oring. More maintenace but a few more HP (2-3 HP) because of the less resistance. Big difference in "free" rolling when the bikes on a stand. Easy HP gains for the $$ as well as safety.

We've talked about it before and the conclusion is the Busa needs about 200HP to punch through the wind to go 200 MPH.

Does opening the throttle wide-open make the injector go to full open? Asking because I have a full MPS Nitrous system that when it sprays "opens the injectors all the way". I have added a staged shift box (nitrous comes on in select gear/gears) this "overrides" some of the MPS stuff...but need...

6-8K is about right for your setup...the Shinko (22psi) will hold it. Get clutch out as soon as possible. I launch at 8K, with a lot of feathering (even thought I shouldn't do that on a Busa). I'm just not comfortable with the tire spinning that hard tell it hooks for the fastest launch. Best...

  keep it low and hard over there too  

I would think that with a tooth ot two on the rear the 1/8 would be in the 122/123 with those 60' times. I also think you would be bustin or at least knockin hard on the 150 1/4.

At Gateway (St Louis) last year when the 14s were out in full force they were typically 2 tenths faster than a stock (lowered, strapped, drag tired) Busa. Didn't see so many this year.

Launch techniques are differnet at the track then on the street due to the surface and prep. But, I guess it can't hurt to practice........

If you're in the 1.60 60' you should be breaking into the 9's and from your time slip you were very close. I still think you need to lauch harder and feather the clutch. Those Tobin seats are great for racing if you're sliding around (low and have a back pad to keep you from sliding backward...

If your track requires a tether...save the $45.00 and just get a "small" "I" bolt and screw it into the kill switch button so it pull the switch up if you come off. You can get a wrist laynard with a clip for a couple bucks anywhere.....

Use the new EK screw press link. http://www.motorcycle-atv-chains.com/site/898526/product/mstr2

I picked up a very conservative 12hp with the Yosh TRS and an Intake cam in the exhaust. Plus bike lost some serious weight over stock cans/system.