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If you do get any burrs or small wrinkles, just file them off with your Dremel.
Now put the end cap back on.............
And replace the O- rings on the studs.
Bolt it on...
Next you will need to make a "punch" to finish the crimp.
I used a flat bar of aluminum stock with a radius ground on the end to match the internal curve of the can.
You need to punch the edges until it is smooth all the way around. Go around evenly working on all the high spots. That soft...
For crimping I used a PLASTIC tipped hammer. That aluminum is SUPER soft and will bend very easily.
Just start by bending the sides over by giving it a little tappy around the circumference.
Like so....
Edit:
oh -I did it out in the yard- cuz the grass is softer than my junked up workbench !!
Now for the delicate part.
Stuff the housing back in the can. Be careful not to hang the material. It will jam if it hangs.
If you measured carefully you should have about 5/8 " overhang that we will "crimp" back to factory specs!
thus.....
After its welded up. Wrap the shortened housing with the dampening material that was cut to length.
It looks like this.
And its ready to stuff back in..............
Notice the baffle tube sticking out - this will mate to the mid pipe once its bolted back. Notice the flare? It must match that...
Weld the baffle into the end plate of the housing.
I don't have pics of this cuz mine were already done.Reference pic #5 to see placement. Also there is an angle cut on the end to match the angle of the stainless end cap. Wait until later to do this cuz you could index it wrong.
Just open the...
I suggest removing all the internal baffling/tubes from the housing and fabricating a baffle out of some exhaust tubing.
I used 1 3/4" tubing and cut lateral slots the length of the tube in four rows. Don't cut too deep. Then, take a punch and bend the edges down to create the "baffles".
I also...
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