Recent content by deon_hackstall

That's strange,,, I use to have one that I got from Brock,,,, i will search and see if i still have it.

Brock has a Bazzaz map for your bike and pipe. Just send him a pic of your pipe and $20 and you are good.

150mph as confirmed by gps.

I use to run a shinko 003 stealth,, but that tire was heavy and didn't last long on the street.. I switched to Michelin 2cts and haven't looked back. Perfect tire for street riding, drag racing, and corners (imho).. I start out at 22 psi and if I wheelie I add 2 psi per pass till the wheelies...

Just adding to,,,,,, I use 17/43 gearing on my Gen 2, stock wheelbase, Im 240lbs suited.. My 60's right now average 1.65 +/- .03sec. I leave at 3500 to 4000 rpm, I use the 'take off from a traffic light method'. I release the clutch a split second before if feed it throttle,, this has...

Farm Bureau is what I use.. Full coverage and no insurance company has been able to beat their price yet..

This may help.. Says 185 on an '09..

If your bike is lowered in the front (as mine is) then aftermarket levers will hit the dash from left full lock to right full lock.. That's why my Chinese made levers are sitting in my tool box and not on my bike..

I love my Brocks CT,, SSB did a comparison with other pipes, no maps, just install and dyno numbers. Just do a google search " Exhaust System Shootout"... I thought it was a decent article.. But keep in mind it is a 'bling bike' magazine..

Shouldn't be an issue, you can run an aftermarket pipe on the busa without a map,, Yeah it will be slightly lean in some spots and a little rich in others, but it will not hurt the bike... As far as the O2 sensor,, the ecu only looks at 10% throttle conditions or less ( at least that is what I...

I removed both the radiator, and oil cooler.. For me it was worth the extra 15 minutes removing them to not have to deal with any 'tight' spaces. After the exhaust was installed, 15 minutes to re-install radiator and oil cooler. And, I needed to flush my radiator anyway.

Nope,, you are gonna have to pull the sensor from behind the clutch basket and clean or replace it..

I would disconnect the Power commander first and then see if the problem goes away... They can and will go bad .. Once You've established that its not the PC, then i would start looking elsewhere.

Thanks everyone for the info,, found a guy that actually works with me that does them.. After asking around; he does a good job..

It's not a table,, just a check box in advance settings.. With my version of software it's just two selections... Normal, and 60°C....