Has anyone ever attempted to straighten a bent wheel?

[clean]

Hey guys,

First off this isn't for my busa, it's my gsxr wheel that has a very slightly bent lip, but same type of wheel.

I ask here because this forum is full of people willing to help. On the other forums you dont get help like you do here !

Anyway it's the usual type of bent lip from hitting a pot hole where it just slightly bumps the bead seat out , and you can see it blip outward every time it goes around. It's pretty minor but you can definetly see it.

I can get a used wheel way cheaper then anyone would fix it, but I'm perfectly capable of giving her a few bumps with a 2×4 and hammer to push it back up.

I've never attempted any such repair and have zero experience doing so. Has anyone ever fixed one?

TIA

 

[Sandow]

Hey guys,

First off this isn't for my busa, it's my gsxr wheel that has a very slightly bent lip, but same type of wheel.

I ask here because this forum is full of people willing to help. On the other forums you dont get help like you do here !

Anyway it's the usual type of bent lip from hitting a pot hole where it just slightly bumps the bead seat out , and you can see it blip outward every time it goes around. It's pretty minor but you can definetly see it.

I can get a used wheel way cheaper then anyone would fix it, but I'm perfectly capable of giving her a few bumps with a 2×4 and hammer to push it back up.

I've never attempted any such repair and have zero experience doing so. Has anyone ever fixed one?

TIA

I have no idea about this as I have never had that issue. But I would say its not safe to "fix"it at all. But I will let others who obviously have more experience chime in as well!

edit- @c10 could maybe ride into a pothole and destroy his rim...then make a garage vid on how to fix it...??

 

[RedBull]

 

[c10]

I have straightened many wheels mostly automotive with a rim lip tool we use . They were cast , and forged aluminum. Suzuki is a cast wheel . I first would check run out of the main inner body where the tire bead seals inside the lip . If its straight or less than .010 inches you would be fine .
2 x4 method will likely stress it more .

 

[c10]

Tool of choice . You will need a way to secure the wheel.

Robot or human?

 

[c10]

Watch this video. Great info .

 

[clean]

I have straightened many wheels mostly automotive with a rim lip tool we use . They were cast , and forged aluminum. Suzuki is a cast wheel . I first would check run out of the main inner body where the tire bead seals inside the lip . If its straight or less than .010 inches you would be fine .
2 x4 method will likely stress it more .

Thank you c10 - this was the kind of info I was looking for. the previous owner road this gsxr the way it is, even at very high speeds so im assuming the inner body is probably running true in order for him to do that without discomfort, but definitely worth a check.

I have a 14x40 metal lathe with a removable gap to open it up to 20". I was trying to avoid removing the gap as I hear you can never get them back in like the factory , but might have to pull it for this.

obviously the wheel should be heated before being pried on, how hot would you say? 300-400F? i dont want to burn the paint

 

[HayaWakened]

@clean
You pull this off and live to tell about it, I got a wheel you can practice on

 

[c10]

I'm not sure on the actual temperature, but a rose bud tip works well like seen in video to even out heat . If the wheel is true I would focus heat in area of lip that is bent. By several inches each direction.
Heating the whole wheel would not be necessary.

 

[clean]

I did a quick check of the wheel on the bike with a mag base indicator on a 20lb chunk of steel.

Right where the pothole hit the bottom of the bead seat ( where indicator is positioned in pic) jumps out .060

The rest of the wheel has about .010 runout which I believe is normal.

So I dunno..... probably scrap, eh c10?

 

[Sandow]

I did a quick check of the wheel on the bike with a mag base indicator on a 20lb chunk of steel.

Right where the pothole hit the bottom of the bead seat ( where indicator is positioned in pic) jumps out .060

The rest of the wheel has about .010 runout which I believe is normal.

So I dunno..... probably scrap, eh c10?

View attachment 1610028

if you want someone to see that you mentioned them , put a @ in front of their name.
@c10

 

[clean]

Thanks @Sandow

 

[c10]

Thanks @Sandow

It might be cheaper buying a used one vs tooling up to repair it .

 

[clean]

Well i have a bottle Jack, 2x4s torch and a hammer XD

I'll get a new wheel...

 

[Bumblebee]

Well i have a bottle Jack, 2x4s torch and a hammer XD

I'll get a new wheel...

I agree, you don't want to mess around with a wheel on a bike that is as powerful as this one.

 

[Berlin Germany]

yes @clean - applause

because the only question can be:
what would be cheaper?
replacing the wheel
or having an accident at 100 mph or more

 

[Rojo]

taking wheels off | General Bike Related Topics

one thing that has bothered me since i put my wheels stripes on is that they are a difference shade blue than the bike. i'm going to paint the lips of the wheels to match the bike, but how would i go about taking the wheels off? or would this be better left to taking to a shop and then...

www.hayabusa.org

 

[202mphbusa]

Bought a 1988 Katana 1100 with a badly bent rear. Like a post from earlier today about swingarm width.

Heat and big adjustable wrench and a piece of wood.
Dial indicated to .045. When I was done. Would I recommend it. Nope. But in 1988 no chance I could buy a wheel.

 

[GIXERHP]

mcwheel main page

 

[Rojo]