*HELP* List all Available clutch cable conversion mods
- Thread starter Jdiddy313
- Start date
Jdiddy313
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Yes brand new OEM kit, it came with fibers, Steels, gasket and Springs.
Jdiddy313
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The whole clutch kit is new, literally like last month. I haven't been able to ride her much because the problem continue to persist.
Mr Brown
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I understand that. However it's far more likely that you made a mistake installing it than it is you're experiencing a problem that nobody else has had, at least that nobody here has ever heard of. So, take everything apart and put it back together, make sure you didn't put the drive and driven plates in the wrong order for example, make sure the basket isn't cracked, make sure you haven't contaminated the fluid etc.
I know you're frustrated, in my experience with these type of things it's usually something simple that's been overlooked.
I know you're frustrated, in my experience with these type of things it's usually something simple that's been overlooked.
+1
It's probably gonna be a simple, stupid problem that we're all overlooking.
Been there, done that.
We'll keep trying to help you.
It's probably gonna be a simple, stupid problem that we're all overlooking.
Been there, done that.
We'll keep trying to help you.
Keep in mind he stated it’s doing this before and after replacing the parts.
Is the clutch lever itself stock?
Some of the aftermarket levers(or a damaged stock lever) do not allow the pin from the master cylinder to seat correctly.
This can cause the clutch to not fully engage or disengage.
What did the clutch plates you removed look like? Were they burnt, or worn out of spec?
Some of the aftermarket levers(or a damaged stock lever) do not allow the pin from the master cylinder to seat correctly.
This can cause the clutch to not fully engage or disengage.
What did the clutch plates you removed look like? Were they burnt, or worn out of spec?
This is my thought as well. Something not allowing fluid to return to the reservoir/MC.
Mr Brown
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I get that, but it doesn't mean it was done carefully and/or correctly. I'm simply suggesting that throwing parts at a problem you haven't accurately identified can get costly in a hurry. Ask me how I know this.....
I’m 100% with you on the throwing parts thing.........! It adds up quick.
If I had already spent that much on parts, I would just spend another $20 on a used master cylinder on eBay and swap it.
Mr Brown
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I'd say it's far more likely that something mechanical is going wrong. You keep focusing on the hydraulic element of the clutch, when that is just a small part of the process. Not being a smartass, but do you understand how the clutch mechanism actually works?
Jdiddy313
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I did some of the work myself at 1st, then I got the bike trailered up to the shop then I paid the shop to do the lastest work, master cylinder, clutch lines, slave cylinder and push rod all OEM. Which was their recommendation because I could have "messed something up".
After a week, they completed the work. All the new recommended parts and they inspected the clutch fibers, steels and said they was good and stacked correctly.
did the test ride and said "Everything is working great! How would you like to pay?"
Of course it was riding great when I was riding it home, then ran into the same problem. Working perfectly fine until the bike got hot enough, then the clutch slowly started slipping then stopped working all together (hit the throttle, just rev and no movement, like the clutch was fully disengaged). Until I pulled over and let the bike cool down, then she was good again.
Took it back up to the shop (after the cool down) so I can simulate to them what was going on. Was even able to show the guy that was working on it, the problem. He was puzzled. They didn't know what else to do to her.
So I was stuck paying for parts and labor that didn't fix the problem.
Maybe the shop Overlooked something too
Mathewrussell52
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Are you sure it has something to do with heat or could it be the amount of clutch pulls?
Jdiddy313
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This crossed my mind too! So I put the bike on motorcycle stands and turned the bike on in neutral and let it get hot. Put it in first gear, Tire didn't even jerk.
Mr Brown
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It sounds like, from that description, that the plates are slipping. Can you disassemble the clutch and take pictures of the steels? I'll bet they're glazed over.
Fwiw if I had a shop fix my bike and what they did failed to fix the problem, there's no way I'd pay anything, until they actually fixed it. That's just me though....
Fwiw if I had a shop fix my bike and what they did failed to fix the problem, there's no way I'd pay anything, until they actually fixed it. That's just me though....
Wow, ignore my earlier post. I didn’t realize that when you said MAster cylinder was OEM, you meant it was a new OEM, instead of the original one.I did some of the work myself at 1st, then I got the bike trailered up to the shop then I paid the shop to do the lastest work, master cylinder, clutch lines, slave cylinder and push rod all OEM. Which was their recommendation because I could have "messed something up".
After a week, they completed the work. All the new recommended parts and they inspected the clutch fibers, steels and said they was good and stacked correctly.
did the test ride and said "Everything is working great! How would you like to pay?"
Of course it was riding great when I was riding it home, then ran into the same problem. Working perfectly fine until the bike got hot enough, then the clutch slowly started slipping then stopped working all together (hit the throttle, just rev and no movement, like the clutch was fully disengaged). Until I pulled over and let the bike cool down, then she was good again.
Took it back up to the shop (after the cool down) so I can simulate to them what was going on. Was even able to show the guy that was working on it, the problem. He was puzzled. They didn't know what else to do to her.
So I was stuck paying for parts and labor that didn't fix the problem.
Maybe the shop Overlooked something too
Jdiddy313
Registered
I'll have to do that once I get a day off. They did end up giving me a refund for most of the labor with the exception of inspection. But the parts I did have to pay for.
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