dialy driven stage 1 turbo question

Boosted Cycle Perf said:
The only gauge the Holley can run is a tachometer. You'll need stand alone gauges, or need to buy a Holley touch screen display or a race pack.
Be careful with auto tune on the power commanders. It's fine for part throttle stuff, but it's just not fast enough to use all over. The holleys are super fast. There's a lot of stories on the Internet of how Holley efi saved guys motors. Last week I was driving my mustang and the alternator puked out on me. As the battery voltage started dropping off, of course the fuel pressure was dropping off too. The Holley actually increased the injector pulses to compensate for dropping fuel pressure. Made it home, and if it weren't for my (usually extremely loud) fuel pump was very quiet, I wouldn't of know it had an issue. Hooked up the computer and saw the ecu progressively added 8% more fuel to compensate for the falling fuel pressure. Saved my from having to get towed!
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Now that's what i want (but unfortunately i can't afford), a super fast and smart standalone even if it can't drive the instrument cluster.
I understand what you mean when you say that the PCV is slow and you are right, it won't save the motor from a lean condition at high revs but for the high rpm band i rely on a good dyno tune.
For some reason it was that medium rpm band and especially the "no boost" to "boost" transition band that i had problems with.
Right now my system is messy as it uses the stock ecu, a split second AIC for the plenum injectors, a PCV with boost reference and autotune, a bosch external pump and an aeromotive 1:1 FPR.
I have now understood how the system works but i keep dreaming of a standalone "clean" ECU system.
Chris
 
So if i understand right for make the setup easy and simple raising rate fuel pressure regulator and a pc3 is the way to go for stage 1 on a gen 1 bike for 7-8 psi max boost?
 
2wicked said:
The PCV with the 3 bar sensor and the boost fuel table is still pretty crappy. Sure you can use larger injectors now and a 1:1 regulator, but you can only change the main fuel table and a boost comp. table. The stock ecu will now over fuel at start up, as it uses an enrichment map for cold starts, it also over fuels when you twist the throttle quickly. We have used and tried most methods, if you want to run over 10psi secondaries with a controller is the best all around choice,

Richard
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We have also tried several methods, and as far as Dynojet is concerned, the PCIIIR with the optional hub and GM map sensor actually maps better than the PCV with a similar configuration; the PCIIIR boost fueling hub setup is a graph, as opposed to the table you get with the PCV. The PCIIIR/hub lets you insert set points on a graph, is easier to map and transitions better, IMO. And as Richard points out, you still end up with other issues, especially if you opt for larger injectors - not everyone knows how to go into the ecu to compensate properly for the larger injectors, even with a boost referencing setup on 2002 to 2007 Gen 1s. Try doing this on a 1999 or 2000 Busa, where you can't get into the ecu. It can be done - we have done it successfully - but you still end up with a starting situation, when all four injectors fire at once instead of sequentially. That is why adding secondary injectors on a Gen 1 - if you are going over 10 pounds of boost - is the best way to go.

oldgixxer said:
PC5 is the way to go
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The PCV with an FMU on a Gen 1, Stage One with a single stage of boost is the way to go, yes. You would still be lucky to see over 300 rwhp as the stock injectors will run out of steam. Initial idling fuel pressure and rate of gain on the FMU itself would dictate how far you can go. We have been able to successfully modify certain BEGI units to change them from 8:1 to 5:1, or even 3:1 to accommodate larger injectors. There are many ways to skin a cat! But if you are building a Stage One on a Gen 1, stick with the FMU setup and either a PCIIIUSB or PCV. They both have the same firmware, the difference being an added 15% TP column in the PCV, and it's additional features, most of which you won't even need unless you want map switching from pump to race gas . . . talk with your intended tuner at length about all of this, know the options before you pull the trigger . . .:whistle:
 
I have already a pc3 so im okay with that:beerchug: and what about the iat sensor is better to tie it on the throttle bodies alone or to make it a tap on the plenum?as i see rcc installation manuals says to tie it on the rear side of the throttle bodies but in my opinion there you have a massive heat from engine if you stuck in stop and go traffic.any advice?
 
kamikazi89 said:
I have already a pc3 so im okay with that:beerchug: and what about the iat sensor is better to tie it on the throttle bodies alone or to make it a tap on the plenum?as i see rcc installation manuals says to tie it on the rear side of the throttle bodies but in my opinion there you have a massive heat from engine if you stuck in stop and go traffic.any advice?
Click to expand...
AFAIK the Hayabusa ECU leans the fuel mixture when the intake temperature rises, something that i think is the opposite of what you want in a turbo bike thus it would be a good idea
to mount the IAT sensor somewhere where there is free flowing air like the now unused ram air intake.
I have the IAT sensor tied to the right side of the frame just under the plenum.
I am not an expert so please wait for opinions from the experts like Powerhouse, Boosted Cycle Perf or 2wicked (RCC)
because this is something that i also would like to find out.
Chris
 
kamikazi89 said:
I have already a pc3 so im okay with that:beerchug: and what about the iat sensor is better to tie it on the throttle bodies alone or to make it a tap on the plenum?as i see rcc installation manuals says to tie it on the rear side of the throttle bodies but in my opinion there you have a massive heat from engine if you stuck in stop and go traffic.any advice?
Click to expand...

You can tie-wrap that sensor to the harness towards the back of the fuel tank on the inside of the left frame rail, or you can run it up to the ram air area, if you wish. Some Velocity kits have a bung right in the plenum . . . any of these choices will put this sensor away from massive heat . . .
 
Hmm, I have had my IAT just zip tied to the fuel rail where it is hangs down close to the case. I will move that. I am sure it gets as hot as it possibly can. Any way to disable this sensor in ecu editor?
 
Kevin Jones said:
Hmm, I have had my IAT just zip tied to the fuel rail where it is hangs down close to the case. I will move that. I am sure it gets as hot as it possibly can. Any way to disable this sensor in ecu editor?
Click to expand...

Other then the dyno setting for the air sensor, no it can't be deactivated.
 
Thanks for pointing out this guys. Mine was actually resting on the case with metal to metal contact on the sensor end right to the top of the case by the starter where it is lava hot. At the track I run so hot that both fans are running at all times and I have to charge the battery sometimes after 3 or 4 passes. All that hurry up and wait. I am sure that if it does lean the tune or affect in any way, it was skewing things. I would never have know that had you not talked about it. I moved the sensor to as close to the intake ducts as the line would go.
 
Hello again after a year of research homework and parts selection i started the build of my stage 1 turbo.
Parts to use is inline walbro gsl392(lower frame mount) custom fuel rail tabs begi fmu(new version) garrett gt2560 ballbearing turbo 60/64 a.r tial vband external wastegate 38mm tial q 50mm bov custom made headers to mount turbo as high as i can custom plenum and charge pipe.what you guys thing about the turbo used for daily driven bike an a big question about fuel controller is worth the extra money to sell my pc3usb and buy the pcv pti using fmu?
 
Hello again after a year of research homework and parts selection i started the build of my stage 1 turbo.
Parts to use is inline walbro gsl392(lower frame mount) custom fuel rail tabs begi fmu(new version) garrett gt2560 ballbearing turbo 60/64 a.r tial vband external wastegate 38mm tial q 50mm bov custom made headers to mount turbo as high as i can custom plenum and charge pipe.what you guys thing about the turbo used for daily driven bike an a big question about fuel controller is worth the extra money to sell my pc3usb and buy the pcv pti using fmu?
 
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When i make my headers i angle the 2 outer pipes at the head flange a bit so the bend rotates up and gives a better access to the lower outer mount bolts and a improved angle into the turbo
 
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