Okay... brake upgrade

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So I almost got into an accident yesterday hitting a car in front of me... the brakes on these bike are not as good as I thought. I remember there being a thread about upgraded the lines to steel braided or something like that. Anyways tell me what to do fellas for better stopping power
 
#1 buy EBC HH pads or if you are on a budget like me, buy the complete sintered metal pad kit from 'sixity' on ebay for ~$45 with free shipping (personally I think they work just as well)
#2 buy at least the 2 front lines , if not also the rear off ebay. Galfer seems like a safe bet, make sure you get copper crush washers either with the line of buy them extra, you will need 11 I belive.

Rip off the old, install the new, bleed the braked with new Dot4 fluid. It's really a dead simple upgrade. If you shop a little you might be able to keep the whole thing under $200 and the difference is incredible. Don't spill brake fluid on anything, trust me!

I also have a CBR1100xx & a VFR800 which use Honda's linked brake system. I had custom lines made for that, 10 pieces per bike, so the busa is dead simple by comparison.
 
+1 to above post. PASHNIT (an SV here) can hook you up with GALFER lines (FR, RR and clutch) and brake pads. And if you the extra coin, do the rotors too.
 
Carbonne Lorraine Or EBC HH Pad
Speigler/Gafler Lines
Braking/ABM Rotors

Sold this package and works great..
 
So I almost got into an accident yesterday hitting a car in front of me... the brakes on these bike are not as good as I thought. I remember there being a thread about upgraded the lines to steel braided or something like that. Anyways tell me what to do fellas for better stopping power

The brakes on these machines are more than adequate. I am not bashing you here, but if you couldn't stop in time, you weren't paying attention plain and simple.

How do I know? That was my first and only wreck on a street bike back when I was 17. Looking around not paying a bit of attention and a car stopped very quickly in front of me. Nothing you can do but grab the brakes and get ready to do a somersault or two.:banghead:
 
I did the Galfer waves front and rear this past winter with stainless braided lines. Have to tell you I love them. The stock ones are very good and never had an issue but i tend to ride late nights and there are a lot of deer around here so i wanted to upgrade to make my situation safer. Those damn deer have hit cars and bikes in the side. They run out of the woods and you can't do anything about it sometimes. The Galfers will stop you faster then you can hold on. Took me a while to adjust. Im also pushing 270lbs so the upgrade was a two part deal...:rofl:
 
I truly think the M/C is why the brakes on the Busa suck. Get a Brembo 19x20 M/C. I added one to my genI and it made a huge difference, more so then pads and SS lines.
 
derbycycle.net has EBC sinistered front pads for 29.00 a set a very good brake pad and the cheapest place to buy them,,,I bought them saturday there when I bought my tires from them too,,, no tax and free fedex shipping you wont find that anywhere else,,,,,,
 
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GALFER EVERYTHING i have lines rotors and pads and havent look back since and am loving them every time I ride but be ready to spend some money. the way i see it if you love your bike you'll spend the extra coin to keep it on the road. just food for the mind.
 
For the 08 Busa I found these 2 Galfer part numbers FK003D623-2
FK003D623OEM. What are the difference & which one is better for hard weekend rides?
 
I run Brembo pads, expensive but beats EBC and SBS pads in both fade and stopping power..
Steel braided lines is always a good thing but does more for feel than stopping power..
A new pump though.. Brembo 19x18 is supposed to be really good..
19x20 is fine as well, just a little less inital bite..
Personally I'm going with ISR Brakes but that 'cause the guy lives like 25 miles from here and is a little cheaper than Brembo.. And they look really raw. :thumbsup:
 
This is not real 'scientific'. Sorry.

I upgraded my front brakes in two stages, but didn't test (seat of the pants, or otherwise) after each stage. So I can't tell you what each modification has done. But I can offer an impression of the overall change, versus 'stock'.

I upgraded to braided-steel lines ($100), EBC HH pads ($75), 2009 GSXR-1000 master cylinder (new, $179), 2009 GSXR-1000 one-piece calipers (used, $279). I had to drill a hole in the right bar and heli-coil it (to mount the bracket for the reservoir. Note: I've got Heli-Bars and a 3/4" GenMar riser with a ZeroGravity Touring windscreen. Had to remove the tab from the right switch housing and move the housing outward about 1/4". Otherwise, no fitment or interference issues due to m/c and lever. It looked like the stock bars wouldn't have required moving the switch housing.) All other parts were just bolt-on.

As for braking power now versus 'stock', moderate (using three-fingers) brake-lever pressure is enough to lift the rear tire. This is without skidding the front tire. Also, I feel more in 'control' when it comes to brake-lever pressure versus rear tire lift versus stopping distance. I can brake very, very hard, and at no time do I feel like I'm 'on the edge' (in danger of losing it). The stock brakes were fine, but the current set up definitely gives me a greater sense of confidence. The brakes definitely require less lever pressure for an equivalent (to stock) level of 'stoppage'. If I was going to sum it up in a single word, I'd say the front brakes are now more 'powerful'.

One time I changed just the front pads, and went out to 'scrub' them in. I recall the front tire skidding pretty easily. The brake lever was like a light-switch in this. Suddenly, the tire would lock up and start skidding. Maybe this was the pads. I don't know. But certainly, with broken-in pads (now) and the described setup, there's no tendency for the front tire to skid. The rear wheel will lift, first. (Another data-point: The rear end is raised 1" with dogbones--aside: lot better feel in the corners with it lifted, and better feel with side loads (such as from wind gusts)).

The bike alone weighs 550# (closer to 750 with me aboard), so there's still a lot of mass to decelerate. But for less than 700 bucks, these upgrades were worth it, to me, and made a noticeable, positive difference in stopping distance, and brake-lever feel. Maybe the most important thing for me is I BELIEVE in the brakes. I never quite trusted the stockers, wrongfully, or not.
 
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I feel the SS lines are a must when looking at better brakes, so that is the first step. Frankly I don't know why a flagship bike like the Busa doesn't have them stock. Add a good set of street pads (like EBC HH's) and you have some pretty good brakes under most conditions.

The stock brakes actually aren't that bad on the Gen II's, their reall issue is lacking feel. I went to the Brembo 19 RCS radial master cylinder. This thing is a real game changer on the brakes. It's forged so the housing is stronger and you can adjust it for power or feel. This thing is no hype job, it's really magic and you will just snicker at the $350 price once you pull those brakes and feel nothing but two fingered, linear sweetness.

You really don't need to do more than that frankly. If you do a lot of track days you might want to look at different rotors to reduce heating of the braking system under extreme usage. But the rotor thing is mostly aesthetics IMHO. The radial MC ($350), pads ($50) and the SS lines ($125) will do the trick. BTW, the rear brakes are really not that important and I actually prefer them a bit mushy so they don't catch. You really don't even need the SS lines on the rear IMHO. Of course if you ride in bad weather conditions you might use the rear brake more than I typically do.

If Suzuki does put out something new in 2011 for the Busa it will be ashame if it doesn't get a radial MC stock.
 
The brakes on these machines are more than adequate. I am not bashing you here, but if you couldn't stop in time, you weren't paying attention plain and simple.

How do I know? That was my first and only wreck on a street bike back when I was 17. Looking around not paying a bit of attention and a car stopped very quickly in front of me. Nothing you can do but grab the brakes and get ready to do a somersault or two.:banghead:

I don't think it's even that......I think these bikes are so quick and people get use to the speed they don't realize HOW FAST THEY ARE REALLY GOING! When you are going double, triple, and quadruple the speed of traffic, the breaks can feel crappy when you are trying to scrub that much speed.

The brakes aren't even bad it's just that you are going so dang FAST! :laugh:
 
I don't think it's even that......I think these bikes are so quick and people get use to the speed they don't realize HOW FAST THEY ARE REALLY GOING! When you are going double, triple, and quadruple the speed of traffic, the breaks can feel crappy when you are trying to scrub that much speed.

The brakes aren't even bad it's just that you are going so dang FAST! :laugh:

I think that is a very accurate statement!
 
hh pads lines and rotors are a must as soon as you buy it. It is even more critical if you
ride with a partner. the two of use on the bike trying to stop when the bike was stock was actually scarry.
 
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