Rectifier/Regulator relocate project...how to

Blanca BusaLess

Suffers from PBSD
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Ok so after spending all night frettin over the ghost hose I found I decided to tackle something that is supposed to be straight forward and in the end create a cleaner look. I decided to buy a regulator/rectifier relocate bracket from Ebay by a co called Ball Z Motosports.

Ball Z Motorsports
08-09 Hayabusa Rectifier/Regulator Relocation Bracket!!:eBay Motors (item 380166603733 end time Dec-20-09 16:28:02 PST)

Item came as ordered and arrived within four days, super quick. Thanks Josh !
It is a very well made piece that comes with four nice stainless steel allen head screws.
Now for the install. First you have to remove tail piece. As this is a post regarding relocating rectifier I will leave that out and most know how to do it. Taking the tail off took about 20 minutes. Just be careful when you remove it if you dont disconnect wires first you have to unplug brake light and license plate light wires as well as undo the cable that unlocks the seat before you can separate bike from tail piece. Set the tail piece aside. Now on right side of tail frame you can see two unused threaded holes. These are the ones you will use to mount bracket. On the underside of bike remove belly pan with the one allen head bolt on the lower right side of bike as well as two push pins going to rectifier bracket. Then you can unbolt the two mounting bolts for the rectifier bracket itself. I highlighted these in pics with red lines. After undoing the bolts let it sit on your foot while you fight to unplug the two harnesses going to rectifier. People with smaller hands may find this easy but it took me about 15 minutes to get these undone. I don't do it often and I did not want to F anything up. After unplugging rectifier you can unbolt it from the bracket itself with a 12 mm socket. Separate the two and set them aside. Now you need to unclip the wires from frame. There are 3 clips holding wires to frame. One on the swingarm and two on the inside of right side of frame. Again these were a pita because I was learning as I went as did not want to break or rip a wire. The first one was fine but the second one on frame was diff. I did as a result have to remove the three bolts holding footpeg bracket to facilitate easier access. Some may not have to do this extra step. With footpeg bracket removed I could see the second clip from outside of frame thru a little hole. I used a screwdriver to push it out thru the hole. You can see this in pics. Ok so now you need to snake the wire harness with both plugs up and back toward new location. I snaked the wires thru an open space in front of rear res you can see in pics. I brought the wires back over and behind the rear res and laid them there. Now you can install bracket. Use a little loctite on bolts. You dont want to hear any vibes from loose screws and have to do it over. I show a pic of bracket on bike only for demonstration purps but I recommend mounting rectifier to bracket first and then install bracket as if you dont it will be diff to put bolts and nuts thru rectifier and secure them with bracket already screwed to bike. Make sure YOU RUN WIRES FROM RECTIFIER UNDER FRAME BAR as seen in pics. If not when you install tail piece it will pinch them. Again I show this in pics. After installing rectifier to bracket and bracket on bike you can connect harnesses and secure lines. I used three zip ties all shown in pics. Two on frame bar and one on short cross bar. Now I put back in the two original bracket bolts under the bike. I did this so I would not lose them and I dont like leaving threaded holes open on bikes. They rust up and when you want to use them you cannot. I also ran the two hoses that were now hanging low thru the space where rear shock attaches to its lower mounting position. I did this rather than cutting them shorter because I am still not sure I will leave all as it is now. I will let y'all be the judge on how it came out. There is still some question as to whether or not rectifier will get hot under the plastic. So far I let her idle for 30 minutes and put my hand on the plastic and it was cool to the touch. Need more riding evaluation to really make sure. All in all it took me about an hour and a half only cuz I was careful and not sure what I was doing. Hopefully from this if you do it , it will be easier for you. :thumbsup:
I think it has a much cleaner look now especially since my bike is white and silver you can see the diff more easily. Also I get to see another 6 inches on that BadA** pipe I got on there. :thumbsup:

On a private note the owner of Ball Z Motosports was up with me till 3 am last night wondering about the 'Ghost Hose' I found earlier. Emailing back and forth and helping as much as he could. I dont know much else about what he sells or makes but it made it apparent to me that he is the kind who cares enough to help others with something that has nothing to do with what they got from him. Good guy Josh is...:thumbsup:

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Why relocate it? That part gets REAL hot and needs a lot of moving air around it, look at the heat sinks. It is water and rock proof. I'll leave mine where the designers of the bike thought was the best place........You may have a problem when it gets hot outside.
 
You may be right regarding the heat. Before I moved it I rode in 80 degrees for about 30 min , stopped and put my bare hand on it. It was warm but not so hot it burned me. Since I have really changed nothing it can easily be undone. I did ride it today for about 45 minutes in Christmas eve traffic. It is almost 80 here now and there was no probs I couls see, feel or smell !
Upon stopping I immediately put my hand under fender where it is now as well as on tail piece plastic all were normal temp.
I moved it because I think it gives the bike a cleaner line and look , simply .
 
Why relocate it? That part gets REAL hot and needs a lot of moving air around it, look at the heat sinks. It is water and rock proof. I'll leave mine where the designers of the bike thought was the best place........You may have a problem when it gets hot outside.
If you add a bunch of electronics it will get hotter. It does clean up the ground clearance though for race use. This is an issue on ZX-14's with boost controllers and so on, the rectifier is located in the same area as yours is presently. We do small screened in cut-outs to help vent that section of the fairing to help keep it cool. Hot days..presented re-starting issues.
 
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I'm thinking about getting a little radial fan from radio shack and mount it right on top of rectifier . This way it will stay cool but for now I will leave it there. I plan on getting a thermo probe and taping it to rectifier with readout under the seat. I will ride it for a while and check temps when I stop !
 
I'm thinking about getting a little radial fan from radio shack and mount it right on top of rectifier . This way it will stay cool but for now I will leave it there. I plan on getting a thermo probe and taping it to rectifier with readout under the seat. I will ride it for a while and check temps when I stop !
That's what I did works great but it needs somewhere to vent the heat.
 
Looking at the before and after pics of your bike... I prefer the lower piece on. I think the white is more noticable missing... jmo. Nice thread on how to do..:thumbsup:
 
Dozerdriver you are completely wrong , don't know what your talking about and I am great and all knowing....hahahahaha just kidding. I too still am on the fence as far as looks goes. Good thing is other than time wasted and twenty bucks I can put it back the way it was 100%. In a way I didn't like how the belly pan kinda covered the wheel/tire and made the bike look a lot longer , but I did like how it fit . The thing that I didn't like was it was not really symetrical on both sides . Shifter side fairing ended short , brake side fairing was long. I would be interested to see it in a wind tunnel or a computer program that simulates air flow before and after to see what diff it makes to remove the belly pan :whistle:. It does seem like it is rounded off on the front side and aero designed. Now so far I like how it seems to have shortened the bike up visually and made it look lighter. I know it's all really just looks but it's a bike you can't just own it !
 
I relocated minust fine and its just fine. What I am going to do is drill some vinelation holes in the fairing.
 
Vent holes, fans, seems like a lot of work for a mod that is hardly noticeable. Also, I would prefer to have that weight down low and closer to the CG.

Nice write up for the mod. :thumbsup:
 
Thats true to, but you have to admit when the bike is lowered that silly thing is scraping the ground every other bump. That was also a factor in why I did the mod.
 
The fan and all that is just..:whistle:
I don't intend on doing anything else to make this one mod work.
It's either fine or not fine.
If I notice any heat or have any probs it's going right back to stock config.
As for now in the last three days I rode 100 plus miles half in stop n go traffic at 80 degrees or so and did not notice anything . No heat in the fender , none on the plastic or anything I can see so far. Just short term results but it seems fine.

It took me longer to make this thread than the actual mod did ?:rofl: so I am not gonna spend any more time on it. We will have to see how it holds up come August at 95 degrees and 100 percent humidity !!!!
 
Blanca Busa...My 08 has a vacumn canister right there...with lines running to the gas tank...where is your vacumn canister? 2hip
 
I have been told that vacuum is there cuz you have cali model.
There was no such canister on mine. Sorry ! There is quite a bit of space under there. I would think you could find room to make all work . How big is the cannister ? How about a pic or two maybe we can figure it out ?
The lines running to your tank caused me great concern the other night cuz they are still there on mine and just not connected to anything. I thought something was wrong. If you see the post I have on 'Ghost hose found' in GenII section
you will see hose and discussion regarding. It is on page two by now I think .
 
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BusaBlue I to agree ahoy weight down low but we are only talking about maybe a lb or less . On a bike a lb in the wrong place at the wrong speed can be bad but I don't think it will really make a diff in how it feels or handles. Doubtful to me if even Vale could feel the diff if you had him do some before and after laps. I would be very surprised if on the after mod laps he came in and said it felt diff.
 
BusaBlue I to agree about weight down low but we are only talking about maybe a lb or less . On a bike a lb in the wrong place at the wrong speed can be bad but I don't think it will really make a diff in how it feels or handles. Doubtful to me if even Vale could feel the diff if you had him do some before and after laps. I would be very surprised if on the after mod laps he came in and said it felt diff.
 
I had no idea what it weighed. That dosn't sound bad. One of the things I like about my Busa is doing mods. :thumbsup:
 
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Looks much better and the weight from that stupid bracket also helps..I've relocated a few and zero problems..thats were the first gen busa's were mounted..

And your right Josh Hill is a great guy..Hes a member on here and s.org..
 
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