1397 + turbo must do checklist

Daniel Sanders

Registered
:cheerleader:Alright let this be the end all of 1397 turbo thread

I am aware that this has been talked about before, and 90% of people say its not worth it due to less meat between cylinders.

I haven't exactly noticed any tuners chim in and say don't do it, so I just want to call out those who have done it, and can tell me any hard and fast rules.

I noticed this guy https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/turbo/118992-turbo-1397-a.html#post2179863 put a .100 space and made fantastic numbers.

Any experienced tuners can chim in on this ?

So o-ring is not possible ?
Would head studs be best? how large? or is it still a bad idea ?
Keep under what psi ?

i have 1397 gen + head work + cams = 240 HP

If I + studs + ?? + rcc stage1 OR 2 ? ( I dont want a grenade but id like to see 350-400 on pump OR what ever I can get from XX boost.

not afraid to spend some bucks, just need some hard rules to follow.

If this is doable im going to create a good 1397 turbo build thread, only if this is not a ridiculously stupid idea.
 
Daniel i can only say how our 1407's do with the 83mm bores
one is o ringed , not all that easy as the o ring is siamesed between the cyls , as in one wire thick at the bore centre line ,receiver groove in head with .040 copper gasket , 10 mm studs and so far no issues to 28 psi
second is cometic gasket and 1/2" studs , same otherwise , bit thicker base spacer for same deck height

84mm bore is very thin between cyls , best i think would be something like the cometic with 1/2 studs,

you can get 340 or so with stock bore on Aussie 98 , probably more if you have good access to e85 and dont mind spending a bit more to set it up

we did the bikes different as one is Aussie based and the other is in Cali and was using what was easily available for future possible replacement at short notice on either

if you want to find out more about the gaskets on our Aussie bike there from Peter at Ridgecrest
 
It can be done but for how long it will live, depends on tune. As you stated you're aware of the lack of head gasket between holes. Peak torque has a lot to do with moving head gaskets. You can usually avoid that by pulling ignition timing before peak torque, and puting it back in afterwards.

Also 1363s have been known to told together well in boosted apps. (83mm slugs) if I was you, I'd put a gem 2 crank in with 83mm pistons and you would have a 1407... :D
 
I have had lengthy discussions with my friend and tuner/builder and ive concluded to simply leave my 1397 alone.and wait to see what happens with the g3
 
I have had lengthy discussions with my friend and tuner/builder and ive concluded to simply leave my 1397 alone.and wait to see what happens with the g3

You might be waiting awhile...I surely hope not tho. Hopefully Zuki will build another bone crusher like the 99. Kawasaki must be stopped....
 
You might be waiting awhile...I surely hope not tho. Hopefully Zuki will build another bone crusher like the 99. Kawasaki must be stopped....

When you say Bonecrusher do you mean "Bold New Colors"...???? :rofl:

Cause that's all Zuk seems capable of putting out these days :laugh:
 
Ok so we have a few comments cool, lets get see if some others can comment.

It seems when searching on SH there is a decent handfull who have done it, but havnt found any build threads, some generally say they have no issuea with 12psi and or 377hp

But lacking a bit of detail past that, any others?
 
Might want to get ahold of Big CC racing; but your going to find the information out there to be hard to come by because its just not common to turbo a 1397 or any bored/stroked busa.

but waiting on gen 3 is waiting for something that will never come
 
Anything is damn near possible with a busa..... Bikes been out since 99 and the research/development and modding hasn't stopped since. So it's cool to be "different" and set yourself apart from the crowd

However...... there has been some of the top mechanics, guru's, engine builders and not to mention race teams in the World all try their hand @ turbo busas and while their has been innovations here and there the proven road 2 success has been a stock bore :rulez:

Can you run a Big Bore turbo? Sure you can!! I'm sure there are plenty who are capable but ask yourself why haven't they?? Why are no turbo shops offering this as an option?? Why no drag racers, land speed racers, and HP junkies doing it?? Must be 4 a reason..... maybe the risk outweighs the reward?? maybe the gains are marginal @ best?? Maybe it's better to just run a more solid stock bore and turn up the boost a tad bit more to compensate while achieving more reliable HP....

Just something 2 think about :whistle:
 
If i do that id have to get a new motor, and prob sell the 1397 engine. although from what i could see there are a decent handfull on SH that have done it but none have created much of a thread about it, if no one else comes to this thread and puts forth there experience I will just get a fresh motor.

that's exactly what this thread is about, figure out from the experiences guys, the actual guys who have done it, let them voice it. ( if none can comment ill go with plan B )
 
If i do that id have to get a new motor, and prob sell the 1397 engine.
ur gonna need a new motor after that one genades into a thousand pieces. before you do that and destroy ur crank, cases and cylinders buy wat u need to go turbo. like 1busa said it this was a viable option why doesn't RCC or NLR offer that as an option? and why does no one else on the planet is any racing organization do it?

ur lookn for a short cut cause u don't want to build ur motor to Turbo specs cause it will cost u more money. well, its gonna cost you double that wen ur motor scatters all over the highway which will become deadly too wen oil is pissing out of ur motor making ur rear tire a death trap. but hey, go for it! its ur money and ur life on the line.
 
Its not for a professional tuner to say yeh thats ok or not. Its kinda like making them liable for something that has nothing to do with them because they advised you on something that you already know is marginal. The other factor is one tuner/builder can no doubt get it to work for you while another may not, so how can he make a recommendation on 3rd party work?

What I can say is my bike on 83mm bores & a crank is well over 700. A larger engine becomes only needed if you wish to use & to spool more effectively a larger turbo. Messing about with capacity on anything smaller than a GT40 though has little purpose other than laziness in using what you have rather than using what is best. You would always explore chargecooling or better turbos etc first
 
yea sorry forgot BIG CC too. their as good as any of the others I mentioned just on the other side of the pond.
 
Dan if your 1397 was built with good rods, studs and valve springs all you need is a good s/h cyl, gen 1 or 2 and a set of turbo pistons, and hd clutch springs
its an easy done in a day conversion
same labour input as putting a spacer under your current setup which you would have to do if you turbo it anyway
 
okay :) ill work on changing the motor, I dont like taking shortcuts so okay i give in :)

I didn't do the rods of springs on mine, unfortunately the cams in mine wouldn't be suitable for a turbo anyway as well


thanks for advise
 
ur gonna need a new motor after that one genades into a thousand pieces. before you do that and destroy ur crank, cases and cylinders buy wat u need to go turbo. like 1busa said it this was a viable option why doesn't RCC or NLR offer that as an option? and why does no one else on the planet is any racing organization do it?

ur lookn for a short cut cause u don't want to build ur motor to Turbo specs cause it will cost u more money. well, its gonna cost you double that wen ur motor scatters all over the highway which will become deadly too wen oil is pissing out of ur motor making ur rear tire a death trap. but hey, go for it! its ur money and ur life on the line.


Im not sure the death part is much incentive :p

cheers guys
 
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