Here are some better pictures of pistons.
I understand from those of your posts, the problem is a bad fuel in the future I can not drive so many miles under heavy boost![]()

CLICK--> *Got-Busa's LSR Project bike* <--CLICK
"TEXAS MILE" -182.265 MPH stock --204.468 MPH basic mods!
RCC TURBO -- 227.2 MPH low boost/half naked!
*PLEASE VOTE HERE--> ULTIMATE HAYABUSA <--VOTE HERE PLEASE!*
Here are some better pictures of pistons.
I understand from those of your posts, the problem is a bad fuel in the future I can not drive so many miles under heavy boost![]()
Again, I melted pistons.
Is it possible that about 18 PSI, and the few seconds, fatal for the engine?
Whenever I ride the bike a big boost, it only takes a few seconds, no intercooler, fuel is 95 octane?
NO INTER-COOLER, 18PSI, and 95 octane fuel.....
...uh.....ya, it won't live long like that....
I don't even want to know what your intake temps are...
CLICK--> *Got-Busa's LSR Project bike* <--CLICK
"TEXAS MILE" -182.265 MPH stock --204.468 MPH basic mods!
RCC TURBO -- 227.2 MPH low boost/half naked!
*PLEASE VOTE HERE--> ULTIMATE HAYABUSA <--VOTE HERE PLEASE!*
How much max boost is allowed for the engine without the intercooler? (Cylinder spacer 2 mm).
thank you
I've encountered this same problem, with so much heat under our fuel tank my fuel line kinked. The first year or so the lines are ok, but they weaken due to age and heat and the constant bending. The fuel was restricted (inlet side of external pump)...leaned out motor..melted pistons. CHECK and replace your inlet fuel lines at your fuel pump..
I had no problems with fuel pressure.
AFR is constant (approximately 10.5 - 11:1).
I am usually more interested in how much boost is allowed, if I have the stock pistons, connecting rods, and if I have no intercooler?
depends how its tuned, if you have full ign control and able to moniter knock and egt
you say you have 8.5:1 compression , 10-12 should be fairly safe in general, 15 if you have a good tuner and can reduce the timing as the motor needs
but realistically if you want these sort of power levels get an intercooler , improve your safety margin and hp output
Stock pistons and rods will be the physical limit not just when stuff melts
I use the editor and Megasquirt ECU for the secondary injectors.
Is it enough to move the ignition map, for 3° above the 80% TPS and 6000 RPM
Can the 12 PSI expect about 300 RWHP?
Thank you very much
You need to get your bike professionally tuned if you can, you're asking alot by trying to tune yourself with those boost levels. You need to start with a good safe tune for your bike and don't get boost greedy, you're only going to get so much power out of your set-up safely. So many guys keep throwing boost at their bikes hoping for more power than the set-up can realistically and safely produce.
Good tune
Good working parts
Good fuel
Pull timing
Don't get boost greedy
and let me add......don't get boost greedy![]()
Can I ask for an example ignition maps so as not to melt the third set of pistons
Unfortunately, near me there is no one with a turbo bike (I'm the only one within about 1000 miles)
Thanks again
Hmmmm, Fuel was 1 of your culprits. Not enough timing retarded was another. I use VP-16 on all my nitrous and turbo applications. You always want a long burning fuel. Welcome to to the world of modified motors.
Yes, there is no end
Where you could get an example ignition maps for turbo Hayabusa?
Thanks
8 lbs will be safe.
Founding Member: RCC ARMY
ouch!!
2012 Hayabusa
2007 Hayabusa Super Ultra (in progress) build thread http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/turbo/...motec-m84.html
2008 RM250 (for jumping stuff)
yup, I think seting your boost at 8 to 10 pounds might help, plus you need racing gas at 110 octane or higher. If it lives at 8psi of boost, then you can work up from there. Since your having part throttle issues I would get a higher octane gasoline right away. You need to start low grasshopper and learn from there. Good Luck!
Thank you
Next weekend the turbo back on the bike so we'll see.

