Wiseco Turbo Pistons

hendrixgr

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I promised to post my experience with the Wiseco 9.5 :1 turbo pistons so here is my first update.
So far i have accumulated 200 miles going up to 4K rpm max (usually i don't exceed 3K rpm) and the important things i noticed are:

1) I hear a strange metallic noise of low volume when the engine is cold, only when accelerating and only up to 2500 rpm, i am not sure but it is like either piston slap or valves are ticking.
After 2500 rpm the noise abruptly stops and lately the noise is fading more and more even below 2500 rpm.

2) The engine has noticeably more power below 4Krpm (where i operate it) although the compression is almost the same as before (9.5 :1) and the fuel consumption is down at least 7-8% (better efficiency)
I ride with the same driving style as when i was measuring the fuel consumption before the rebuilt and the same fuel map, maybe the new spark plugs helped here.

3) Lastly the water temperature is a bit higher than before, not much but definitely higher than before the rebuilt.
I don't know if this is because the pistons transfer more heat away or friction is higher.
Chris
 
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Can't comment on #1 or #2,but for #3 first place I would start is making sure the cooling system has been burped and there is NO air trapped inside. Most of the time,when an engine is pulled apart and put back together for whatever reason,and it runs a bit hot it's something simple as air in the system. ;)
 
I will try to burp the system tomorrow morning.
One thing i neglected to say is that the engine was a bit hotter only today.
All the previous time and right after the rebuilt it was definitely cooler than today but then again all the other days
i was commuting to work and back unlike today that i went for a long ride at low speed.
 
Why only 4k?
I think it isn,t good for the piston rings....
Many times leaner is hotter....
Hi.
I didn't changed the fuel map under 5K rpm so why you think the engine runs leaner now?
I can't see any change in AFR on my wideband gauge either.
About the rpm limit i imposed on my self, do you think that 4K rpm is low for breaking in the new pistons, bores and rings?
I am asking because i don't know.
Btw for those who don't know the European Hayabusa 2007 model (gen1) has an oxygen sensor
which makes the ECU work on closed loop when cruising up to 4800 RPM.
This simply means that whatever change you make at the IAP fuel map below 4800 rpm
will not matter when cruising at steady throttle because the ECU will always adjust fuelling for a steady 14.7 :1 AFR
Chris
 
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As i promised here is an update.
I have accumulated more then 1000 miles and so far so good, absolutely no oil consumption, the bike has definitely more power off boost despite the fact that compression is the same as before (9.5:1) and there are no funny noises.
The "tic tic"noise i was hearing was not piston slapping but an exhaust leak from the header flange.
I will let everybody here know if something goes wrong with those pistons in the future.
Chris
 
Out of curiosity why did you go with a higher compression piston say than a 9:1
Not going to run that much boost?
 
why are you only going to 4k? seating the piston rings requires more Rpm then that. short intervals of high revs. one of the worst things you can do to a new engine is be overly cautious with it and glaze the cylinder walls, but you also shouldn't be running it so hard it's bouncing off the rev limiter. and change ur oil after 500 miles change again at 1500
 
Out of curiosity why did you go with a higher compression piston say than a 9:1
Not going to run that much boost?
You are absolutely right, i am not going to run more than 1 bar of boost because i am happy with the power (286 HP), the mileage is great and the reliability is like stock.
I am older now at 53 and one thing i learned along the road is that you can't always get what you want but sometimes be happy with what you have, like the Rolling Stones song.
I am certainly happy even to have a turbo Hayabusa under the circumstances that i live in...

why are you only going to 4k? seating the piston rings requires more Rpm then that. short intervals of high revs. one of the worst things you can do to a new engine is be overly cautious with it and glaze the cylinder walls, but you also shouldn't be running it so hard it's bouncing off the rev limiter. and change ur oil after 500 miles change again at 1500
You are right but out of fear of breaking the engine i only rev the engine up to 3k for the first 200 miles and then i increased the rpm to 5000.
After the 1000 miles mark i rev the engine up to 7000 rpm and i plan full power pulls after i reach 1600 miles.
Chris
 
I am just going to run mine around the block a few times and get the AFR for town and under 4k ballpark and then take it to a dyno. Rob told me, break it in like you want to ride it. I guess that means dyno pulls.
 
I am just going to run mine around the block a few times and get the AFR for town and under 4k ballpark and then take it to a dyno. Rob told me, break it in like you want to ride it. I guess that means dyno pulls.
I do break it in like i usually ride it!
I am a gentle rider that once in a while goes berserk...
Chris
 
This is exactly what my rings needed was a hard ass dyno session to fully seal.
Running around town didnt do it for me.

I am just going to run mine around the block a few times and get the AFR for town and under 4k ballpark and then take it to a dyno. Rob told me, break it in like you want to ride it. I guess that means dyno pulls.
 
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