Wiring dry nitrous on Gen2 using ecu editor

xchief1320

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I know Boostbysmith sells a harness and is who I bought the flash device from with great service but I just found out I can finally get on the dyno to tune it this weekend and figured I might as well install the nitrous so I don't have to redyno it. I've got the nitrous completely installed aside from the wiring.

Thanks
 
Figured out some of it..

PAIR sends ground signal to activate the solenoid I assume it automatically switches the map when it fires the solenoid?
Read pin 58 (i think)needed to be grounded to switch maps? Is it built into the code or does that pin need to be grounded as well?
Have to figure out what wire on the PAIR plug is ground. Is the other wire needed? Not at the bike to test it yet.

Toggle switch on pin 37 arms nitrous.

The rest is easy..:laugh:
 
brown wire is switched ground, orange wire is +12volts key on.

There isn't map switching per say, but as soon as you hold the mode button, or ground that wire like i am doing on my harnesses with a toggle switch, and you are in the rpm range, wide open throttle, it will turn on the nitrous, fuel, ignition retard etc.

you need to wire the pair to a relay, can't wire a solenoid directly to it or you will cook the pair circuit in the ecu. id put a diode across the relay coil as well.

dont mess with pin 58 at all if you are going to use the nitrous code in ecu editor.
 
Thanks alot.. I've been reading through the hack site to get the info I had. It's great to have confirmation before i dig into it..I was planning on running a relay, Cheap insurance to not mess anything up...
Curious why a diode? To stop any voltage feedback across the coil?

Thanks again.
 
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to keep voltage spikes from going back into the pair circuit on the bike. Relays discharge high voltage spikes when they are released.

pick up a 1n4007 diode from radio shack, they have them in an assorted pack for a buck or 2, a 4 or 5 pin relay from wherever, toggle switch, some misc crimp connectors etc.
 
Good deal. I have all the stuff here to do the wiring aside from the diode. I'll pick one up today on my way home..

Thanks again Smithabusa, You're the man...:beerchug:
 
Got it working thanks to Smithabusa.:thumbsup:

Anyone have any issues with burning up solenoids with them pulsing? I'll probably just run it 100% in 2nd+ but to test it I had it 50% and after a few seconds the solenoid was pretty warm..

I have a small jet in it and pulling 2 degrees right now so I can test it. Then i'll get it on the dyno and tune it in.
 
yeah to me LOL

if you are even just turning the solenoid on100% with no nitrous flowing through it will get hot quick
 
Question to solenoid

If i have a dynorun ,first run will be "normal" mode
second on "NOS-Mode" but with closed valves to check if AfR is comming right.
Can i do this or will the solenoid be cooked without the nitrous ?
How long will it hold without it ?

Even if the bottle gets empty it may run dry.

Thanks for replies
 
I dont know if is this way but I think that you will only have to disconect the soloenoid and turn nitrous wiring on and run the bike and see your a/f you will know if worked or not.

:beerchug:
 
That's what I did to road test it as well. I also added a LED up near my toggle switch that comes on when the solenoid activates so I can visually see when it's on..

102_0631 [800x600].JPG
 
I am planning on running the ecu editor and nitrous harness on my Gen I, do you have a wiring diagram handy that shows the solenoid as well as the relay and diode?

Any help would be great before I pull the trigger.
 
It comes assembled with a 2 pin connector u put on your solenoid and plug in, there us no wiring for you to do really.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
When I ran the Texas mile, I pulsed the solonoid for the full 9 seconds and had no problems with it getting too hot.
 
When I ran the Texas mile, I pulsed the solonoid for the full 9 seconds and had no problems with it getting too hot.

think you were on NOS all the time , and it has a big cooling efect on the solenoid.

I meant to push the botton on the dyno without gas.

I remove the wire from the relais for test. But my install is not realy userfriendly.
Have to loose the tail ,and pull it 4" back to lift the reservoir and reach electric. :moon::sleepy::banghead:
Each time 15 minutes :please:
Last pic is complete how it will be forever :lol:

Haya-2010 017-k.jpg


NOS-fertig 005-k.jpg


NOS-relais.jpg
 
It comes assembled with a 2 pin connector u put on your solenoid and plug in, there us no wiring for you to do really.
Posted via Mobile Device

you need to wire the pair to a relay, can't wire a solenoid directly to it or you will cook the pair circuit in the ecu. id put a diode across the relay coil as well.

dont mess with pin 58 at all if you are going to use the nitrous code in ecu editor.

Whats this about?

Thanks.
 
He didn't have time for me to ship him one
Posted via Mobile Device

Ahh ok :thumbsup:

I saw it was installed and just thought he wasn't thinking of spraying. Thats my fault.

Thanks for clearing that up. As soon as my pcIII and hub are sold I'll be placing the order.

Thanks
 
hi.
i just bought a nitrous harness for my hayabusa gen2,from boost by smith.
it says in the option 2: Have Toggle Switch in the On Position (requires 1 wire splice near ECU connector) / Window RPM / Wide Open Throttle...
can someone answer me or show me.were i put 1 wire splice near ECU connector????
i want to activate nitrous wide open throttle,window rpm,only.not to use any buttons.
please help me...
 
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