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NICKxNOBLE

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I have a 2007 with all the normal bolt ons and mods. I currently make a wopping 174hp on the motor and 204hp on a dry shot. Small air box mod, pc3usb, dual intake cams, pair valve delete, 4 to 1 hmf, cr9e plugs, cam chain adjuster, stock clutch and springs, k13 race fuel, custom maps....stock bottom end and transmission.

I currenlty need a slave support, and to fix 2nd gear (so i have to crack the case)

interested in going turbo without the filter out the side of the bike and dumps out the other side (i dont want to be able to notice the turbo at a glance as i am a street grudge racer). I want to make a true 250hp to the wheel (im okay with 240hp if it covers the 1/4 faster).

My goal is to beat zx10's with there normal boltons. I weigh 325 lbs. I have about 5k in my busa funds. I will do the work myself. What turbo kit do you'll recomend and what other items do i need to make them work? Do i need a spacer plate (if so how thick and where to purchase?) do i need pistons? Do i need rods?

I will travel to get the bike tuned by someone known for turbo busa tuning, and will continue to run on race gas only.

Thank you ahead of time for your time and input.
 
$5k for what you are trying to is pretty close I think especially if you are doing the work. No rods for that HP. The experts will be along shortly though.
 
When you say race gas what are you referring to? 108 Pump gas or VP fuels etc? Is your bike tuned for that?
 
You cannot get the turbo flipped as the orientation of the turbo keeps it tucked up aginst the engine for maximum tire clearance.

The alternative to that is a full exhaust. That coupled with an inside the fairing air filter will allow for absolute sleeper status.

We are a sponsor here, and an Rcc turbos dealer, and can get you set up with exactly what you need. If you get your post count up to over 10, I can give you a nice little members discount.
 
Lycan6 said:
When you say race gas what are you referring to? 108 Pump gas or VP fuels etc? Is your bike tuned for that?
Click to expand...

k13 race fuel is 110 octane. Don't remeber if it's leaded or not. I'm assuming he used it while on a nitrous tune? That much octane isn't needed all the time or a stock engine.
 
one of the main reasons that i want to go with a turbo is that it can't be turned off. usually the first thing out of my opponents mouth is for me to unhook the bottle, So then i have to change tunes and gas. so i offer up somewhere around 5 and the flag to leave my gas hooked up. sounds alot easier to have a turbo all the time and just fender everyone to keep them interested. do I need a spacer to accomplish my goals?
 
5k is way off....trans alone will be a grand at least if you buy the turbo kit yourself and get a decent one its gonna be over 5k.....not including install tune etc.
 
Murdered out o7, what kit do you recomend? Can i still cut 1.70 60's on the street or will lag be an issue? Do you have an online store to view or just rcc's website? The second gear issue is probably just a fork or shaft, i will probaly send it of to get 2nd gear back cut. This is the 2nd time i have had this issue, both times were due to bringing in the nitrous at about 9k and shaking the back tire wile shifting to second. Apperenly if your hooking and spinning (shaking) its harder to shift properly.
 
NICKxNOBLE said:
Murdered out o7, what kit do you recomend? Can i still cut 1.70 60's on the street or will lag be an issue? Do you have an online store to view or just rcc's website? The second gear issue is probably just a fork or shaft, i will probaly send it of to get 2nd gear back cut. This is the 2nd time i have had this issue, both times were due to bringing in the nitrous at about 9k and shaking the back tire wile shifting to second. Apperenly if your hooking and spinning (shaking) its harder to shift properly.
Click to expand...


We are an Rcc turbos dealer, and that's we suggest. They have the highest quality kits, and have a 2 year warentee. As far as your 60 ft times, if all your doing is adding a stage 1 kit, they should be the same if not faster.
 
Got-Busa? said:
No offense bud but you are going to need a lot more than 250whp to beat bolt-on bikes if you are 325lbs...
Click to expand...

I disagree. You've met me before, but may not know how much I weigh. Also 325. While there's no way around less weight will go faster, I've seen several heavy hitters do major work on busas from a dig. They seem to work very with some weight on them.
 
Even if i give a normal size rider the break, he has to try to catch me, i can leave so much harder and get traction and keep it down. I used to weigh quite a bit more and lost weight and had to take a link out the chain to get traction. Being able to control your weight at the dig is the key. Now on the top side is a different story. A 250 ilb friend on a gen 2 busa with only bolt ons , never had it tuned, from a dead stop he cant catch me in the 1/4, but from a roll even on my nitrous i can't pull him, we practice together all the time. At the track your weight is your enemy due to a 100ilb jockey being able to dead hook and cut 150's and run 117 mph in the 1/8th. At the track i run average 110mph on the nitrous and 103mph on the motor.
 
Murderedout07 said:
I disagree. You've met me before, but may not know how much I weigh. Also 325. While there's no way around less weight will go faster, I've seen several heavy hitters do major work on busas from a dig. They seem to work very with some weight on them.
Click to expand...

I agree they can launch hard but I've yet to see the launch advantage continue past the 330'. Looking forward to seeing his results if he can get it done... :beerchug:
 
Any turbo tuners around me? North eastern nc, willing to travel. Norfolk, va beach, raliegh, winston salem....currently have a pc3usb but im willing to buy a system that you are more comfortable with.
 
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