Well I shoulda been using a torque wrench

Charlesbusa

Used to be a SoCal Busa
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I've never used a torque wrench when changing my oil on the drain plug, and I have used the same crush washer after 3 oil changes.

Now I pay the penalty  
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I stripped the oil pan a little.  I have had 5 thread pieces come out of the drain hole and now I'm afriad that if I try to run the engine, metal pieces might float around to the wrong place and cause even more $$$$$.

Sooooo,  A new oil pan costs $108.00.  Oil pan gasket $8.65.  Anything else you guys can think of??

Anybody want to sell a used oil pan, money's a little tight.  As long as the pan is in good shape, used would save me money.  Any tips for changing out the oil pan??

From now on its a new crush washer and 16.5 ft-lbs every time.

Thanx for any help.



<!--EDIT|Charlesbusa
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Found this on ebay, I don't have the expert eye.... how's the condition look, just your opinion;

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/hayabusa-stock-oil-pan-busa_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQitemZ4587092117QQrdZ1QQsspag
enameZWDVW" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot....meZWDVW</a>
 
Boy you would think the guy would have cleaned up the pan before taking pics to put up for sale. I would e-mail the guy and ask if he has any pics with it cleaned up. Can't tell with the oil what the condition is. That's my take anyway.  
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Ever think about a heli-coil. Not expensive and would save buying a new pan. Once you get the pan off installing a heli-coil is a piece of cake.



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Oh....here is the websiteclicky

Most machine shops can do this. Shoot....if your oil pan was down here I could prolly get done thru my machine shop.

Good Luck.
 
You can buy individual coils at an auto shop. And do it yourself!!!
 
Yeah....AutoZone has em'......Make sure you read the chart on the back carefully...... very easy to jack up.

You end up drilling the hole way bigger than the bolt.....then you screw the Helicoil in...then the original bolt goes in the Helicoil. Bam, Done.
 
What about piggyback single oversized plugs. Basically a plug within a plug. This way I don't need to remove the oil pan.

The problem is finding the right size, anybody used these before??
 
Its basically a plug with a smaller plug inside it. Its threads are slightly different, add thread sealant, screw it in and it never comes out again. You then use the smaller plug built inside of it to drain the oil.
 
I used one of those double plugs once. Worked good, just slower to drain. I would just go to the next size plug with a cutter tip. Remove your pan to install it, so you can clean any crap out. You have a few options and they all are good, just different levels of difficulty. Good luck.
 
The only problem I see with a heli-coil is that you will end up with about 1/2" of dirty oil in the bottom of the pan each change. The reason the threads come out so easy is that the original threads have slots cut in them to let oil drain out. I used a bigger plug that I found at Autozone and just tapped the pan to the new plug size. I also found that a little anti-seize on the plug helps. This fix has held for about 45,000 miles so far.
 
Hello, If you are taking the pan off anyway just find the next size up metric oil plug at the local parts store that is the same length of course and get the right sized tap and do it your self. Or take it to the machine shop and they would do it for a minimal charge. The factory oil plug size is M14x1.5, so bigger would be a 15 and 16 and so on. Let me know if you need more help
 
Oh yea, screw the copper crush washer. I got tired of replacing this thing and I went to advanced auto parts in there little black drawers in the back and found me a fiber (not paper or rubber) oil drain plug gasket in size M14 and it is reusable just like a car and works great. Cost me a whopping 59 cents. For the torque wrench, better keep it.
 
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