jimbob8915
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I see that the factory T-stat for my 2005 is 179F. Is there another compatible year model in a car or bike that I can get a 200F thermostat? I am running in new rings and would like a little more heat in my block.
Thermostat alternatives
- Thread starter jimbob8915
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Berlin Germany
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jimbob8915
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I ceramic coated my combustion chambers and piston domes. I need to get the pistons and bore a little warm to seat my new rings.
Berlin Germany
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@jimbob8915
what do you expect by that doing?
even if the water reaches a temp around 120°C instead of 100-105°C this lil difference can´t , as far as i understand , strenghten the hardnee of the ceramic.
remember the flame - point inside chamber is arroung 800-900 °C (with turbo evtl. 50-100 higher) so what should the 15 degrees more in the water should help?
i would say - nothing.
in the opposite you will built in some points of issue producing heat & pressire points etc.
at a temp. of 120°C water needs a pressure of arround 3 bar to stay fluid (no pressure and it moves to steam) - as far as i know all water leading pipes ´n hoses can´t stand that pressure and will burst after short or mid time.
the standard coolers cap is built for around 1-1.5 bar at 120°C.
no good idea - when the water like an explosion leaves the motor you are in biggest danger to destroy the hardware (cylinder / pistons etc.)
not to forgett the huge danger to slide out on the glycerine that you allways should fill in 50:50 to destilled water and what then reaches the bottom ur driving on.
in my "little" brain your idea looks a bit nonsensical and not goal-leading .
what do you expect by that doing?
even if the water reaches a temp around 120°C instead of 100-105°C this lil difference can´t , as far as i understand , strenghten the hardnee of the ceramic.
remember the flame - point inside chamber is arroung 800-900 °C (with turbo evtl. 50-100 higher) so what should the 15 degrees more in the water should help?
i would say - nothing.
in the opposite you will built in some points of issue producing heat & pressire points etc.
at a temp. of 120°C water needs a pressure of arround 3 bar to stay fluid (no pressure and it moves to steam) - as far as i know all water leading pipes ´n hoses can´t stand that pressure and will burst after short or mid time.
the standard coolers cap is built for around 1-1.5 bar at 120°C.
no good idea - when the water like an explosion leaves the motor you are in biggest danger to destroy the hardware (cylinder / pistons etc.)
not to forgett the huge danger to slide out on the glycerine that you allways should fill in 50:50 to destilled water and what then reaches the bottom ur driving on.
in my "little" brain your idea looks a bit nonsensical and not goal-leading .
Berlin Germany
Registered
the ring seats are also coated ?
what a nonsense - the rings need the more or less direct metal contact to the piston with that super small gap of 2-3/100 mm,
what you can read in the manual.
in order to be pushed outwards against the cylinder wall by the combustion pressure and thereby make compression possible at all. removing the coating from the ring grooves is nonsense - buy a couple of new pistons and just get the dome allone coated until just before the first ring - in no case further down in the direction of the pistonwalls.
the walls - allone - you then can coat again if the pistons dia is some 3-5/100mm to little fore the bore of the cyls.
this is intended to prevent the pistons from tilting.
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