Steering Damper Bearings? Anyone Ever Replace These?

[Shaun Ketterman]

When I picked the Busa up after the dealer took care of the valve adjustment, one of the issues they found was that my steering damper bearings were out of spec.

I had noticed since I bought the bike that there was a slight thumpy feeling when I went over certain bumps, particularly pulling into the driveway. I didn't even ask them about this issue, they just sorta found it and let me know.

Here is a photo of the exact parts I had to buy:

I needed two of the bearings and one seal, but had to order the seal since it wasn't in stock.

Now, the dealer basically said there are two scenarios here:

One - the bearings simply need to be repacked. OTD price is ~90 bucks.
Two - the bearings are notched, cannot be repacked, and must be replaced. OTD price for this is ~300.

Since I already have the bearings, I'd really rather just do this myself and save the cash. I'm all about learning how to do my own work (for the most part). This seems like it might be a lot of work...everything attached to the tree is gonna have to come off, so the forks, front tire, handle bars, clutch and front brake MC, etc.

The dealer mentioned that if the bearing pieces need to be replaced (he used the term 'notched')- and he sorta motioned with his hand using a hammer - they would need to be knocked off/out and replaced. But the bearing piece is all-inclusive. The bearings arent removable, as far as I can tell,from the rubber/plastic grommet they are attached to. It seems like the whole piece would just slide over that lower bracket.

One other note is that they wouldn't do the work without the lower seal. Any reason why this would be? I figured if it's the bearings that are bad, then I replace those, and just keep using the rest of the older parts. I don't really understand why the seal would need to be replaced.

Anways, does anyone have experience replacing these? Looking for tips/pointers, or at least an expected time to complete this from start to finish. If it's a few hour job, I can tackle it this weekend.


Shaun

 

[twotonevert]

Ok wait, there are two things. 1) Are you talking about the damper, or 2) steering head bearings? What you have shown are steering head bearings.

The oem damper is loose and is supposed to be that way. What issue are you having exactly, describe in detail.

 

[nosbig]

You should plan on it taking you a day to do the job. It shouldn't take that long, but it all boils down to how fast of a mechanic you are. The job is not hard to do but everything has to come off the front of the bike, like you said. Then you just knock out the old bearings with a drift and a hammer then press the new ones in. No special tools needed for the job.

If it were me I would just replace everything , seals and bearings. If you are doing it yourself then your still money ahead.

 

[mjl3truck]

Use the All Balls kit, 'ella of a better set up.
Just don't preload the bearings too much
http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1003.html

 

[Shaun Ketterman]

Ok wait, there are two things. 1) Are you talking about the damper, or 2) steering head bearings? What you have shown are steering head bearings.

The oem damper is loose and is supposed to be that way. What issue are you having exactly, describe in detail.

My issue specifically is, as you say, the steering head bearings. The image I used above (which is from a Suzuki OEM parts dealer) labels the schematic as "Steering Damper", so there was some confusion on my part.

The issue is that when going over certain bumps (my driveway it does it every single time) there is this bump/knock in the handlebars. It's almost identical in feeling as when you are in a car, hit a nasty bump, and bottom out. Or as if the forks themselves are bottoming out (even though they obviously aren't). Also, if I get off the bike, hold the front break, and push the front end down/forward, as it begins to come back up there is an audible clunking noise. I noticed it the day I bought it, I just didn't realize it was actually an issue. I didn't even tell the guys at the dealer - they noticed it themselves.

You should plan on it taking you a day to do the job. It shouldn't take that long, but it all boils down to how fast of a mechanic you are. The job is not hard to do but everything has to come off the front of the bike, like you said. Then you just knock out the old bearings with a drift and a hammer then press the new ones in. No special tools needed for the job.

If it were me I would just replace everything , seals and bearings. If you are doing it yourself then your still money ahead.

Thanks nos. I managed to find a youtube video of a guy doing this, and I'm on the fence. I am confident I can get it done, but I'm not so sure on how long it might take *me*. Since the bike is my only transportation, I'm hesitant. Might just suck it up and pay the mechanic.

Use the All Balls kit, 'ella of a better set up.
Just don't preload the bearings too much
http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1003.html

Thanks for the reference. I've purchased some stuff from them before, love their stuff. I've actually already picked up the factory bearing though, and I've paid to have the lower seal sent as well.

 

[nosbig]

It's your choice. When I said a day I was considering your experience with this job. An experienced mechanic that has done it before could probably have it done in a couple of hours. So if you give yourself a day it shouldn't be a problem. Plus you get to save a few bucks and take the pride in having done your own wrench work.

Good luch either way. If it is that bad then your mechanic is correct, you shouldn't be riding it.

 

[fallenarch]

I replaced the ball bearings with roller bearings. I can feel a difference, or could immediately after the change but it's not a big change. But then it was not expensive if I remember either.