SRP Stage 1 Build - GHOSTRIDER

Just finished wiring up the other gauges. I am only back to the subframe on wrapping wires so that should take the rest of the night.

DSC01415.jpg
 
Yea, I don't know how useful they will be while gettin on it, but the way I ride I should'nt have much of a problem keepin an eye on them. My LCD screen is just below them and I'm always lookin at it to keep an eye out behind me. I'll post some pics of it when I'm finished.
 
I spent the majority of the night finishin up the wiring to the tail. I had cut and solder quite a few wires followed by wrapping the new wire bundle all the way back to the tail. The toughest part was just making sure all the wires were the right length. Everything went smooth and I'm just about ready to dive into the new oil pump gear.

DSC01418.jpg


DSC01417.jpg
 
Lots of pics to show!!

High output oil pump gear installed!

I finished the fuel system the other night which put me at about dunn!! :thumbsup: I ran the extra lights that I wanted to under the tank and am currently fabing a bracket for my rear view camera.

My buddy and I filled her up on fluids.

I ended up using exactly 4 quarts of Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Full Synthetic (10W-40). A half gallon of Engine Ice, which was not enough. The book calls for about 3/4 gallon if I am reading it right.

I put about half a tank of gas in her and was pleased to see that the gauge functioned properly. No fuel light, so I know that wiring was right.

We disconnected the fuel pump, which already made me happy about installing the quick disconnect under the tank, and bumped the motor a couple times to cycle the oil. After gettin the oil to the correct level we hooked up the pump and primed the fuel system. She fired up on the second turn!!!!!! :cheerleader:

I did have a fuel leak at the fitting on my aftermarket fuel filter. I had to pull it back up and get some red loctite on it which took care of the problem. Other than that no leaks.

DSC01419.jpg


DSC01425.jpg


DSC01427.jpg


DSC01428.jpg
 
Looks good man.

You may want to consider rotella-t oil. For as often as you have to change the oil in turbo bikes, you'll be glad you did. It's about $12 for a gallon jug.
 
I do have one question that I'm just not sure about.

I adjusted the fuel pressure to 43 psi. and the A/F doesn't look too crazy, but why does my boost read -5 psi? I gave the throttle a little bump and it moved to -2.

Is it normal for it to read negative on a gauge that also shows vacuum or not?

Will this be worked out on the tune or will it always show negative at idle?

Thanks for any help. I called Frank today at Powerhouse and left a message for an appointment. It should be off to New York before too long for the tune!

DSC01442.jpg
 
Assuming that the gauge is hooked to the underside of the throttle bodies, your going to show negative, cuz the engine is creating vacuum. However -5 is a bit low for a stock compression motor... Should be about 10-13. Your gauge could be off.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the Rotella-T.

I'm figuring it's safe for the bike if you're usin it. Is it rated to meet or exceed JASO. I think that's what my buddy told me to look out for. I guess some have friction addatives that are bad for the clutch.

Just Checkin :rulez:
 
I installed this little union in the boost line as per the GlowShift instructions.

It looks like it's to keep water or condensation out of the signal box.

Could this be contributing? I may try to pull it out, install a straight connector, and see what I get.

DSC01446.jpg
 
Well let me put it to you like this. I'm a synthetic junkie. I run synthetic in everything. But like I said the turbo busas put oil through hell, specially if your doing a lot of racing, or long highway pulls. But $60 oil changes add up when the oil isn't in the motor for much more then 1800 miles. So I searched for other options on s/h.org where there's a lot of of land speed, prostreet, and grudge racers. Almost all of them run Rotella. And those guys have big money, 500+hp bikes... Do you think they would run crappy oil in they're machines? So I made the change, it's great stuff.
 
I wouldn't think that would affect it. Another reason it could be reading lower is if you live at elivation. I'm still willing to bet it's just off.
 
Nope, at sea level, so that can't be it.

I do have an auto meter mechanical that I can throw on there if nothin else works.

I'm gonna go over the lines tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanks for your help Murdered.

I'm gonna check into that rotella-t the next time I'm at the store. I've already fried clutches in one bike by adding the wrong oil to it so I'm a little more cautious than I have been in the past. If the land speed guys are runnin it I'll give it a try. I'm not sure how often clutches get changed in drag bikes. If they're changed often the friction additives may not matter? I don't know, not a track guy. For what it's worth I'll give it a shot on the next change.
 
Yeah check it aginst another gauge. Ever have a compression test done?

It's the detergents that mess with clutches... Somthing Rotella doesn't have. Well it has detergents, just not the type that effect clutches. Rotella is diesel oil. So it's heavy duty, and ment to put up with high heat created by turbos.

You would be surprised how long a clutch last in a prostreet bike, given that it's set up right.

In all honesty most "motorcycle" oil is a synthetic blend. 50/50 or close to it. Too much synthetic can cause your clutch to slip...slip=wear/heat...somthing to think about.
 
Back
Top