Questions Regarding Throttle Bodies Syncing
- Thread starter Ham
- Start date
You must have Ecu Editor, Woolrich, or Suzuki Dealer software to do a throttle body sync on a gen2.
You must turn off the ISC before you do the sync, then turn it back on after.
It's a simple click box, reflash(4 min to load), do TB sync, and then flash it back.
As far as Manometers, I have an old style, liquid filled, tube type made by Motion-Pro.
Works well, but must be hung upright, and it can suck the fluid out of the tubes if you're not careful(won't hurt the bike, but the manometer would no longer work).
I would like a digital with 4 outlets(1 for each carburetor or throttle body).
Most digitals only come with 2.
I have no personal experience with them.
But, they don't have to hang up, there's no fluid to spill, and they are likely more accurate.
There's some info on this site somewhere, but I don't remember where.
You must turn off the ISC before you do the sync, then turn it back on after.
It's a simple click box, reflash(4 min to load), do TB sync, and then flash it back.
As far as Manometers, I have an old style, liquid filled, tube type made by Motion-Pro.
Works well, but must be hung upright, and it can suck the fluid out of the tubes if you're not careful(won't hurt the bike, but the manometer would no longer work).
I would like a digital with 4 outlets(1 for each carburetor or throttle body).
Most digitals only come with 2.
I have no personal experience with them.
But, they don't have to hang up, there's no fluid to spill, and they are likely more accurate.
There's some info on this site somewhere, but I don't remember where.
I and several others have the Morgan Carbtune Pro- metal rods in the tubes instead of mercury (used to have one of those that I got from another member on the board)- very easy to set up and very easy to use... As was said, TB sync on a Gen I is a piece of cake- on a Gen II is much different...
Ham
Registered
Thanks, I thought it would have been the same since they are basically the same motor but i guess i won't be doing this my self if i ever need to sync. But my bike only has 3890 miles on it.
Gen one is a piece of Cake,, On a Gen 2 there is more to it as Mc has said.
Not only do you need a sync tool you also neeed the Suzuki SDS programmer to do it correctly. The programmer give you the ability to adjust the ICS valve the controls the Idle speed and Many many more items.
It is also used for many applications on a Gen 1 and many other models.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337943218&icep_item=151910315832
And more links,,
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...q=Suzuki SDS&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.11177j0j7
The SDS plugs into the bikes Yosh connector, under the seat, next to the ECU
Not only do you need a sync tool you also neeed the Suzuki SDS programmer to do it correctly. The programmer give you the ability to adjust the ICS valve the controls the Idle speed and Many many more items.
It is also used for many applications on a Gen 1 and many other models.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337943218&icep_item=151910315832
And more links,,
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...q=Suzuki SDS&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.11177j0j7
The SDS plugs into the bikes Yosh connector, under the seat, next to the ECU
Hayabusa133
Registered
I am thinking abt synchronizing my gen 2 throttle bodies. I have woolich racing software and flasher. Is it really possible to sync a Gen 2 hayabusa without out the Suzuki Dealer Software?
Has anyone here tried it with woolich racing software? The reason I asked is that I emailed woolich racing asking if it was possible and they said no.
My appologies if Woolrich will not work.
Ecu Editor definately does.
Ecu Editor definately does.
Hayabusa133
Registered
I also emailed Greg at boostbysmith. He said his ECU Flashing Interface will not work either
He would know, but I do not understand why.
I have Ecu Editor, and it gives you the ability to turn off the ISC. Click it off, flash the ecu, sync the tb's, flash the ecu again, done.
There are members here who have done it.
Hayabusa133
Registered
I have Woolich racing software, it gives the same option to turn off ISC. I think I'm going to try it. I can't see why it can't be done. I am just scared that after I'm done my bike won't idle...would like to hear from someone who actually did a sync with Ecu Editor or Woolich racing first tho.
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Mythos
Registered
I've used the Sync-Pro and I don't care for it very much. If you're careful, the fluid will not get sucked out but if it does you can put more fluid in if you totally disassemble the whole tool. Buy extra fluid if you must use this tool. What I find more problematic is that the fluid sticks in the tubes and gets air gaps when you shut the engine off or disconnect the tool after calibrating it. This completely throws the calibration way off. You need to take off all the tubes and wave the tool down like a thermometer to clear the tubes.
The screws that hold the Sync-Pro together can vibrate out. If you over-tighten them, they will crack the housing.
The worst part about the Sync-Pro is that it cannot display the vacuum in mmHg. It has no scale so there is no way to precisely identify the amount of vacuum that is present. You can equalize the vacuums but you don't know what they are so you have no idea if they are in spec.
I bought a steel ABN vacuum syncing tool for $60. It has 4 needle gauge faces, does not need to be calibrated and testing it against other vacuum gauges, it seems to be very accurate. All I had to do was turn a set screw on the back of one gauge to zero it. The Sync-Pro is a $90 plastic tool. The only way it may be slightly superior is that you probably can sync the vacuums a tad more precisely by viewing 4 tall columns of fluid rather than 4 needles---but the ABN has some big gauges so I don't even consider that to be much of an issue.
The screws that hold the Sync-Pro together can vibrate out. If you over-tighten them, they will crack the housing.
The worst part about the Sync-Pro is that it cannot display the vacuum in mmHg. It has no scale so there is no way to precisely identify the amount of vacuum that is present. You can equalize the vacuums but you don't know what they are so you have no idea if they are in spec.
I bought a steel ABN vacuum syncing tool for $60. It has 4 needle gauge faces, does not need to be calibrated and testing it against other vacuum gauges, it seems to be very accurate. All I had to do was turn a set screw on the back of one gauge to zero it. The Sync-Pro is a $90 plastic tool. The only way it may be slightly superior is that you probably can sync the vacuums a tad more precisely by viewing 4 tall columns of fluid rather than 4 needles---but the ABN has some big gauges so I don't even consider that to be much of an issue.
Mythos
Registered
I have not synched my busa but have done the job on the 14 and the ABN was the winner, hands down.
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B34A2C52-B2D1-FF6C-D0E0C887A6124177
FYI, the 14 was considerably out of sync but it did not idle or have improved small throttle performance after the sync was completed. I don't think syncing has much effect on larger TPs.
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B34A2C52-B2D1-FF6C-D0E0C887A6124177
FYI, the 14 was considerably out of sync but it did not idle or have improved small throttle performance after the sync was completed. I don't think syncing has much effect on larger TPs.
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