Pair Valve ??????
- Thread starter Busa04
- Start date
Try these links: <a href="http://www.brockracing.com/Instructions/S13-PAIR.htm">Brock PAIR Valve Mod<a> or <a href="http://home.tiscali.nl/hayabusaclubholland/fsj/mod_airbox.html">Fast Sjonny's PAIR Valve Mod<a>
Here's a board thread <a href="https://www.hayabusa.org/cgi-bin/busa/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=6;t=13265;hl=pair+valve+mod">PAIR Valve Thread<a>
Here's a board thread <a href="https://www.hayabusa.org/cgi-bin/busa/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=6;t=13265;hl=pair+valve+mod">PAIR Valve Thread<a>
I have Yoshi RS-3 boltons, stock header and mid-pipe. I am going to keep the stock header unless I can find a 4-2 performance one because I like that balanced look of 2 cans. Now to the questions.
What exactly does it do and why?
Should I do the mod?
Thanx in advance
Don
What exactly does it do and why?
Should I do the mod?
Thanx in advance
Don
ralnsplder
Registered
yes you should do the reomval of the pair valve. It is a valve that pulls air out of your airbox and injects the cean air into the exhaust port so that it delutes the exaust air coming out of your bike. Leaving it will cause you to have backfire problems. It is also some unneeded weight. Not much but still unneeded weight. You will need to also get a block off kit to do it. Check this site for some more info.
http://home.tiscali.nl/hayabusaclubholland/fsj/mod_pair.html
http://home.tiscali.nl/hayabusaclubholland/fsj/mod_pair.html
Thanx guys, sounds like a winter project with a beer.
Peace
Don
Peace
Don
CoolBUSA5454
Registered
PAIR valves serve no purpose but to meet EPA regs. Take em off and block em'. Call me at the shop if anyone needs a kit. We are a dealer with Brock.
when i bought my busa,an 02 grey and silver,it only had a full hindle.it back fired. this past week i did a TRE,pwr commander,airbox mod,and the pair valve removel.it all made a big difference.I also exchanged the 2 larger velocity stacks in the center of the airbox for the same size as the 2 outside ones it made a diff more top end. I also took the hose from the crankcase to the airbox off and replaced it with a small K&N filter on the crankcase,and capped off the hole on the box. the bike runs much smoother than it ever did now and the idle is rock solid no wavering like before the mods. I did similar pair mods on my 1000 and changed to smaller stacks on that bike also, thats why i did the stacks mod on the busa,because of the difference it made on the 1000. Next mod is some chrome wheels after the holidays! And than a custom map in the spring!!!
Welcome skypop.....mine has the Pair system installed, with a 4 into one Muzzy. buuubuuBoom--i kinda like it doing this--does not feel like it's harmful--might get tired of it...good info--pair blockoff reduces backfiring.. Thanks.
And the velocity stacks mod has never been mentioned--I think--very cool. You can see what other mods i have done.
Under this post.
And the velocity stacks mod has never been mentioned--I think--very cool. You can see what other mods i have done.
Under this post.
Nice work done so far!!! The stacks mod is something that a lot of 1000 riders do its cheap and easy and you do get a little on the top end but you sacrifice a little in the midrange for it. With most of the mods that most people you dont even notice the mid loss to much.Also anybody know of a way to make the airbox to ram air tunnel more air tight??? we probably lose a little with that air leaking coonection between the two. every little bit helps...skypop outta here
If you get the airbox mod done at KWS motorsport, we put shorts stack in place of the tall ones, & the flappervalve cut out just like the pic from brocks, & cap the nipple on the throttle boddies that runs to the valve, & remove the hose. As for the pair valve it is removed, on almost every motor build. block off plate are used sometimes, or if we are doing head work, I tap the hole with a 6x1.0 tap & run a very short bolt into it & BAMMMM no need to by the plates. Don't do this with the motor inthe bike 'cuase you'll have metal shavings in the cylinders, real bad if you start the bike up. one thing I did run the hose, that goes from the airbox to the pair valve, from the crank case vent to the pair valve then capped the small vaccume hose. which the pair valve is open all the time then. It removes crank case pressure & you don't have hot gases going to airbox . It is a mod we've done to some of our gsxr1k bikes & I just wanted to try it on my busa. I personally feel it revs a little quicker, but I don't drag race mine I just ride the crap out of it, I like the twisties, not worried about the 2lbs savings. just my thoughts
Hey brent im not sure about the hose size. but it seems to of really smoothered out the bike alot along with the other mods. i attached it with a small hose clamp and i capped off the entrance to the airbox with a small cap. if you dont hav a cap just leave some hose on the airbox and plug the hose. I had the custom map done and what a diff. when i brought the bike in it was doing 154 h.p. and 95 ftlbs after the map the bike is puttin out 168h.p. and 105ftlbs. the bike runs much better now also.
felony performance
Registered
try the pair valve to the crank case hose,,you will get more horse power,dont do the blocks,,,
givinr
Registered
I didn't bother with the plates, the work installing them is not work the 2.5 lb weight savings. With the "marble" mod, if you need to get the bike smog tested, it takes a few minutes to reverse and put back together, and the net result is identical with the exception of the 2.5 lbs. The whole point of the pair valve is to help the bike meet EPA emmisions standards, by adding fresh air to outgoing exhaust. At least with the marble trick you will see in this thread, you don' have to reinstall the pair valve for it to pass. Here is the thread.
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