Nitrous 101, class in in session.

kingofdacoast

Registered
I have received alot of PM's concerning nitrous injection and especially wet vs. dry so I will post this so everybody can have a reference. There are a few books you can buy that have lots of info on this but the one that is the best is "The nitrous oxide high performance manual" by Trevor "the wizard of nos" langfield. In his book he breaks down all the major nos company's kits and compared them. This book is a must have. Ever little detail of injecting nos is broken down and explained. I will type his chapter on wet vs. dry.

Dry systems versus wet systems

A wet system is the traditional nitrous system setup, conisting of a fuel and nitrous solenoid and an extra (combined in most cases) fuel and nitrous injector, which is mounted in the induction system as a convenient way to introduce the fuel and nitrous oxide. The complete system works almost separately to the rest of the engines's fuel system. Wet systems are practically universal and are suitable for engines with fuel injection and carburettors. A wet system is so called because the fuel is injected into the induction system, "wetting" the manifold internals with fuel along the way (whether the manifold is originally a dry fuel injection manifold or a wet carburettor manifold).
Dry systems use the same principles to introduce nitrous oxide into the engine, i.e. a control solenoid with an injector positioned in the inductions system. However, the fuel enrichment methos id completely different and doesn't require a solenoid or an extra injector. Instead of using a standalone fuel control system, which works independently of the engine's fuel injection system, a dry system utilises the surplus fuel delivery capacity of the original fuel system. The fuel enrichment is then added throught the orginal injectors by either increasing the fuel pressure or extending the on-time of the injectors. A "dry" system is so called because the additional fuel doesn't "wet" the inlet tract on its way to the engine, and is injected by the engine's own injectors.
Whilst the concept of dry systems has the potential to supass traditional wet systems, most current methods of making the fuel system deliver more fuel are at best inadequate. As metioned earlier, the majority of current dry systems increase the fuel flow in one of two ways:
1)Current mass-market dry systems increase the fuel pressure to increase the fuel flow throught the injectors. This is achieved by supplying low pressure nitrous gas to the original fuel pressure regulator or a very small bleed off jet. The standart injector pulse width is maintained and, as a consequence, restricts the fuel flow limiting the potential power gain from the system. Although it might well be possible to boost the fuel pressure to in exces of 80psi, it's pointless if it supasses the injectors's flow capacity. some injectors aren't capable of operating at double the normal 35-45psi fuel pressure, so a general safe rule is not to increase the pressure above 40%.
2)Electronically increase the injector pulse width. an electronic unit sends a signal to the ecu, telling it to keep the injectors open for longer and, in extreme cases, fully open at wide open throttle. How much it's possible to increase the fuel flow using this method will depend on the maxumum flow rate of the current injectors and their original maximum duty cycle. If the duty cycle is currently 80% they pulse open for 80% of the time and off for 20% of the time. This means that fuel flow can only be increased by a maximim of 20% by keepting the injectors open 100% of the time.

In theory, s system which moderately boosts the fuel pressure and extends the pulse with of the injector on time would be capable of adding the maximum amount of extra power. Just how much potential is remaining in the fuel system will still determine the limit of the potential power that can be gained by fitting a dry nitrous system.

Dry systems have a number of advantages over wet systems:
1) the potential for fuel drop out and fuel puddles at higher power levels is completely eliminated.
2)Theoretically, fuel distributilnd to each cylinder is more likely to be equeal, but in practive, se wet of original fuel injectors are unlikely to flow even amounts of fuel. Even if fuel was evenly distributed, this is not necessarily and advantage over the distribution achieved with wet systems
3)The installation is generally simpler.
4)Fewer components should make the system cheaper however, it rarely does, especially when all aspects are taken into account.

Whilst dry systems have undoubtedly solved some problems, they have created others:
1)The fuel may be distributed evenly (although that can't be determined for certain without first testing the injector flow) with current dry systems, but the use of a single nitrous injector obviously can't achieve the same degree of even distribution that the fuel system should achieve. In some instances, it can result in the majority of nitrous oxide being fed to just on cylinder, whilst that cylinder only recieves a quarter of the extra fuel (in case of a 4 cylinder engine). The consequence of this extreme example would be a melted plug at best, or a broken piston at worst.
2)OEM fuel injectors are not supllied in particularly well-matched sets from the factory and their performance deteriorates with use, resulting in partial blockages and flow restrictions. Therefore, unless you either have them cleaned, flow tested and matched, or buy a new set of matched injectors, you run an increased risk of compnent failure due to one cylinder running leaner than the others.
3)The standard fuel injectors are restrictinve and can only flow enough extra fuel to add 50 or 75bhp (depending on engine size) at the very most. However, you can fit specifically designed, high flow fuel injectors that are capable of flowing 200bhp or more.
4)All fixed hit dry and wet kits deliver a constant amount of nitrus oxide under all conditions, regardless of rpm. A wet system delivers a matched amount of fuel in the same indepenent way, regardless of engine rmp. However, this is not the case with dry kits where the fuel deliver varies with rpm due to the crude methods currently being used to boost the fuel pressure. The engine's normal fuel delivery varies with rpm and load, so adding the fuel enrichment for the nitrous kit by boosting the fuel pressure will do the same. This is far from ideal when the nitrous is delivered at a constant rate resulting in less than optimum results.


Its long but I hope this helps anyone out. The chapter goes on into one dry nozzle and direct port (spray bar) dry kits but I'm tired of typing. Any questions?
 
Nice Quote! However, I have a question, Seem's to me he talks alot about fuel delivery as the "BIGGEST" issue in holding dry kits back? What he keeps referring to, is just simply bumping up "FUEL PSI". This is NOT the case on "most" dry kits out(im talking about busa's only here), i havent seen any dry kits that are just recommending "TURNING UP FUEL PSI"(that i know of)? Thats why "most" are running PC'S or bazzaz's to custom make n2o map's, RIGHT? So that your adding(pulsing the injector more, WITHOUT maxxing it out)the right amout of fuel in the "correct" area, mainly in your 100% TPS column from 7,000-8,000 rpm's up, NOW, im NO ENGINE, OR DYNO TUNER, this is just MY understading of dry kits on busa's, AND IN NO WAY, do i think this is ALL A 100% correct! Just trying to LEARN :leseratte: as much as possible. So please explain if im "flawed" here?
 
The biggest drawback of any dry system is its dependance on the stock fuel system to keep up. Remember that pc and bazzaz's are "PIGGYBACK" systems that are hacking the signal from the ecu to do what you need. Your still at the mercy of the stock fuel system. Upping the fuel pressure would be the best way to compensate for the addition of nos but this would mean you would either have to run the nos all the time of have a way to "boost" the fuel pressure when nitrous is introduced. Gixx1300r did this with his first dry setup. Now since we can somewhat control the injector signal we can try to make the injector work harder (duty cycle) to compensate for this. Now the only problem is if (IF) all the injectors are flowing the same without any kind of obstruction then the nitrous can get sufficient fuel to handle bigger loads. As with any factory machine it has tolerence's that have to be met. That doesn't mean the part is perfect, just that it meets a requirement. You can have 3 injectors that may have tested perfect and one who barely made the cut in your bike and never now it. Now when you hack into the injector signal to add more fuel you just made that tolerence go out the window. Alot of tuners in the pass that experimented with dry shots had bikes that came back with one cylinder that ran leaner than the other ones and may have damaged the engine do to thinking that the nitrous wasn't distributed evenly. Or so they thought. Now they experimented with delivering a equal amount of nitrous to each cylinder to prevent that (spraybars and other such dry multi-porting) only to have the same issue only worse because now we're spraying ALOT more DIRECTLY to the problem child. Multi-porting dry nitrous isn't the best or only way that dry should be used. To properly be able to use dry through multi-porting is to tune each cylinder individually, make sure the fuel system is capable to expand to compensate and to ensure that all injectors flow equally.
 
The biggest drawback of any dry system is its dependance on the stock fuel system to keep up. Remember that pc and bazzaz's are "PIGGYBACK" systems that are hacking the signal from the ecu to do what you need. Your still at the mercy of the stock fuel system. Upping the fuel pressure would be the best way to compensate for the addition of nos but this would mean you would either have to run the nos all the time of have a way to "boost" the fuel pressure when nitrous is introduced. Gixx1300r did this with his first dry setup

So turning up the fuel psi would be better than increasing fuel volume? ??? Let me throw out some examples to help clarify; Take a hayabusa's 24lb injectors that are set at 43psi, you spray dry and max the injector out out 230hp(RIGHT?). Then take a 34lb injector and set it at the SAME 43psi, you still get 230hp(RIGHT?). The difference NOW is your only running @ 70% DUTY CYCLE, you could in turn SPRAY ALOT MORE DRY now, because the injector is not "maxxed out" BOTH injectors are set at the SAME PSI, But now you have more "FUEL VOLUME"
 
Your thinking the right way. With the bigger injector you don't need as much fuel pressure. Lets say you have everything stock in your bike with no piggyback fuel module. If you install the bigger injectors the bike will run extremely rich cause the stock map is sending signals to pulse a smaller injector. Now you add the pc or bazzaz to decrease the pulse's to compensate. So now you can lower the duty cycle of the injector and it doesn't have to work so hard. BUT! When you add nitrous to it and increase the numbers to compensate fuel pressure drops cause the injectors are requiring more than the system can provide. So now we need to add more fuel pressure and we're back at square one. Just with less money in our pockets.
 
kingofdacoast; BUT! When you add nitrous to it and increase the numbers to compensate fuel pressure drops cause the injectors are requiring more than the system can provide. So now we need to add more fuel pressure and we're back at square one. Just with less money in our pockets.[/QUOTE said:
"FUEL PSI DROPS"..... I dont believe this statement to be accurate ??? Of all the history and research of n2o and EFI Busa's/bikes i've done, "ALL" EFI bikes have rising rate fuel regulators! As the RPM'S rise the fuel psi goes up by as much as 5 PSI to compensate for upper RPM and fuel load.
BTW, On 99-07 busa's you could just install S2000 injectors(from a honda S2000 car) and with the "STOCK" 43psi setting you could "SAFELY SPRAY A 100hp DRY" and duty cycle is only 80%, do to Fuel Volume.......Not, fuel psi! Its been done by many proven tuner's.
 
You are wrong. Stock fuel systems comes with a regulator inside it to keep fuel pressure CONSTANT not increase. Hook a fuel pressure gauge up and do a pull on the dyno. It won't move. Now add load to it. Still won't move. Increase the duty cycle to lock completly open and put a load on it. Pressure drops. HMMMM? Now what if we add bigger injectors to that stock setup under load with a high duty cycle. I'm not telling you something I've heard or read now.

Where does this fuel volume comes from? Nothing has changed but the injectors. If we changed out the injectors to bigger ones (s2000) and left the fuel pressure at its stock setting (43lbs) how would the bike run on the stock ecu? It would be rich and the duty cycle would show high because the ecu is thinking its driving a smaller injector. Now we add nitrous and it leans everything out perfect and our duty cycle is in the green. No "VOLUME" has increased. Fuel pressure didn't increase. The regulator in the fuel pump bleeds off access fuel to mantain 43lbs. Thats it. It doesn't increase fuel pressure at all. You will have the same fuel pressure at 2000 rpms at 1/4 throttle and at 11,000 rpm at 100% throttle.

Here it is straight out of the service manual.

Chapter 4-12 FI system and intake air system

Fuel pressure regulator
The fuel pressure regulator is diaphragm-operated type consisting of the diaphragm, spring and valve. It keeps the fuel pressure applied to the injector at 3.0 kg/cm2(300 kPa, 43 psi) higher than that in the throttle body at all times.
When the fuel pressure rises more than 3.0 kg/cm2 (300 kPa, 43psi) higher than the throttle body pressure, the fuel pushes the valve in the regulator open and excess fuel returns to the fuel tank via the fuel return hose.

I just don't make this stuff up brother.
 
You are wrong. Stock fuel systems comes with a regulator inside it to keep fuel pressure CONSTANT not increase. Hook a fuel pressure gauge up and do a pull on the dyno. It won't move. Now add load to it. Still won't move. Increase the duty cycle to lock completly open and put a load on it. Pressure drops. HMMMM? Now what if we add bigger injectors to that stock setup under load with a high duty cycle. I'm not telling you something I've heard or read now.

If the above is TRUE about put a load on injectors and "watch fuel psi drop", The bike would go LEAN in the upper RPM'S, any bike....even a stock one! NOW, what happens, when; Load applyed on enine, "fuel system psi drops", then you have FORCE FEEDING air moving in there.....via, the ram air system(which as far as i know, cant be simulated on a dyno)? The bike would LEAN WAY OUT, wouldn't it? I know they dont put the Air PSI and Air Temp sensors in there for nothing. Correct me if im wrong, but dont these sensor's help out with all this...some how? If the above is true, with the 1,000+ people out there spraying DRY, i would think there'd be a WHOLE LOT of burned down motor's......NOBODY would ever touch the stuff(JMHO) I'm not saying this is just "something you've read"........YOU DID, you quoted all this from a book you said. And further more i'm not questioning your "DYNO TUNING" abilities, But i "PERSONALLY" believe dyno & real world #'s are two different animals! Dyno's get you close, but then real world is where it happens. You gotta know, when you start a thread, Nitrous 101 "Class is now in session" and ask if there's "ANY QUESTIONS".......there might be a few??? So like you told me one time CHILL OUT BROTHER.....just some friendly questions here :beerchug:
 
Please, your acting like I'm downing dry systems or something. I'm not talking load on injectors, I'm talking engine loading. The more the load on a engine the more fuel consumption i.e. injector duty cycle, ignition timing, etc. When a fuel pump goes bad or gets stopped up the pressure drops and the engine will still run but won't make power beyond that. It goes lean untill it pretty much runs out of fuel cause the pump can't keep up with the demand the engine wants. I know this from experience not reading. I wish you were closer cause I would show you this personally and let your see the light. Listen my friend, its obvious you love the spraybar and dry kits. Nothing's wrong with that. What I'm trying to get you to understand is that IF dry was the way to go companies like NOS, WON, Cold fusion, Nitrous express, etc would have perfected this since that is all they concentrate on is making nitrous products. Dry nos is what it is. Cheap horsepower.
 
Oh, and quoting from the book is just verifiable information. I don't want you to think I'm making this up or this is only my onesided opinion. You called Brock and he told you his opinion of dry vs. wet and he was one of my instructors in this nitrous game. Like I said, don't take my word for it. Search the internet.
 
Here is a 1397 that I built and installed my First Dry Nitrous Spraybar on 3 years ago. I needed to test the limits of the stock fuel system. as you can see the max with the stock fuel pump and stock injectors is 279hp. That is with the Power Commander maxed out. It is lean a 14.1 A/F ratio. That was not a big concern since I ceramic coated the piston domes ,combustion chamber and valve faces. I dont have a bucket full of melted parts. The Nitrous specific Pistons have a thicker ring landing since I knew that at least a 120 shot dry was going on the bike. Nitrous Specific Piston should be used it you plan on spraying more than a 100 shot. It is cheap insurance and protects the pistons and combustion chamber from detonation. After this run I installed a set of S2000 injectors with the stock fuel system. That brought the Air/Fuel down to 12.2 when spraying and the bike has 330hp. It has been running like a clock for 3 year now with no problem.
EPSON001.jpg
 
Here is a 1397 that I built and installed my First Dry Nitrous Spraybar on 3 years ago. I needed to test the limits of the stock fuel system. as you can see the max with the stock fuel pump and stock injectors is 279hp. That is with the Power Commander maxed out. It is lean a 14.1 A/F ratio. That was not a big concern since I ceramic coated the piston domes ,combustion chamber and valve faces. I dont have a bucket full of melted parts. The Nitrous specific Pistons have a thicker ring landing since I knew that at least a 120 shot dry was going on the bike. Nitrous Specific Piston should be used it you plan on spraying more than a 100 shot. It is cheap insurance and protects the pistons and combustion chamber from detonation. After this run I installed a set of S2000 injectors with the stock fuel system. That brought the Air/Fuel down to 12.2 when spraying and the bike has 330hp. It has been running like a clock for 3 year now with no problem.
EPSON001.jpg



:thumbsup:
 
Oh, and quoting from the book is just verifiable information. I don't want you to think I'm making this up or this is only my onesided opinion. You called Brock and he told you his opinion of dry vs. wet and he was one of my instructors in this nitrous game. Like I said, don't take my word for it. Search the internet.

Searching the net will have you with a bucket of melted parts..You better find some good classes to take like how efi & nitrous really works and learn how a motor works when you introduce the 2 together..
 
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Here is Brock

Not once but twice

- Drag Racer Blows Off Hand![/url]

- Wet Nitrous Backfire- Brocks Performance GSX-R750[/url]
 
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Searching the net will have you with a bucket of melted parts..You better find some good classes to take like how efi & nitrous really works and learn how a motor works when you introduce the 2 together..

Daniel
Where have u been? Havent seen you in ahwile
 
Here is a 1397 that I built and installed my First Dry Nitrous Spraybar on 3 years ago. I needed to test the limits of the stock fuel system. as you can see the max with the stock fuel pump and stock injectors is 279hp. That is with the Power Commander maxed out. It is lean a 14.1 A/F ratio. That was not a big concern since I ceramic coated the piston domes ,combustion chamber and valve faces. I dont have a bucket full of melted parts. The Nitrous specific Pistons have a thicker ring landing since I knew that at least a 120 shot dry was going on the bike. Nitrous Specific Piston should be used it you plan on spraying more than a 100 shot. It is cheap insurance and protects the pistons and combustion chamber from detonation. After this run I installed a set of S2000 injectors with the stock fuel system. That brought the Air/Fuel down to 12.2 when spraying and the bike has 330hp. It has been running like a clock for 3 year now with no problem.



The point I'm trying to make is with stock components and trying to spray huge dry shots. They are only going to take so much. Now you could have said all that without the extra parts and somebody will say "I know a 1397 that has that much spray and have no problems" but don't know what went into that motor to handle so much.
 
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