My 30k Mile Rebuild

I see a couple post up you are going to use APE main studs?
ARP should be used. Just my .02 all the rest looks great!
 
I had given some thought to ape vs arp as far as head studs, but mains will be APE. When I tore the motor down the mains were in great shape and had stock bolts. APE main studs will be an upgrade from where they were. Ive heard nothing but good about their main studs in their current state.

The head studs will be ARP. ARP's 10mm have a bit more clamping force than APE's 10mm.The 1/2" studs from what I gather (and in my opinion) are overkill for my boost level and can distort the block before the studs reach the proper stretch. I'm not a builder, or even a racer, just a turbo addicted internet jocky that spends way too much time pouring over info online about this stuff. My motor survived 30k worth of abuse in it's prior state. I don't think I went on even one ride where I didn't at least fully tap the hp.

If 600+ hp were the goal I would do more, but 430 hp is a different animal. In my opinion there is simply no need for some of the available performance parts. Stock clutch hub with heavy springs worked fine, stock output shaft (gen 2) worked fine. Heck, even the tranny worked fine.
The sad part about all the cool motor parts is that they're all hidden inside the motor. Of course, if they ever become visible that would be a very bad thing, lol.

If Suzuki put a bit beefier rods in the Busas and left the gen 1 valves in the gen 2s they would have nearly made a 400hp ready motor. Just spacer it, swap 4 injectors. bump up the valve springs and clutch springs. Oh, what could have been.
 
What did the rings look like at 30k?
Curious of what a leak down looked like with 30k wear on the rings.
 
I just tore it down and re did everything. I did a comp test but I think the tester was defective. New seals, valve job and rings going in. APE did say that about 10 of the valves werent fully sealing. Weird thing about that is that I trapped at 162 the last time I ran. That was my best trap speed.
 
I just tore it down and re did everything. I did a comp test but I think the tester was defective. New seals, valve job and rings going in. APE did say that about 10 of the valves werent fully sealing. Weird thing about that is that I trapped at 162 the last time I ran. That was my best trap speed.

Turbos are very tolerant of leak, especially at WFO. I remember a top funny bike team that ran their Suzuki turbo-nitrous bike with way over 10% leakdown and consistently broke records that way. One year in the final race at the World Finals, the bike was over 30% and there was no time between rounds to do anything about it; so they turned up the boost, threw a third stage of nitrous on it and put it on kill. They won that race, broke the record, won the world championship and put two rods right through the bottom of the motor. I don't think I ever saw a happier crew . . .
 
It's home. Now it's time to put all the tid bits back on.

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So sad. All those nice parts hidden inside the cases.
The fairing in the box is a fresh replacement for the one that blew off the bike at the track. It's a fault with the gen 2's. I've lost 2 now, and they're 400 bucks each. I'll be putting in some 1/4 turn fastners between the lowers and fairings to stop the issue.
 
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