Gen 1 Hayabusa Dyno Please Help

Rileymcg32

Registered
Hi all
I just got my dyno results back and with the custom map it reads 156.6 max power, 96.1 max torque. With the map I downloaded from dynojets website it was 150.9 and 90.5
1498002008553428104871.jpg


2001 hayabusa
Power commander 5
Small air box mod
Eliminated paid valve
Full yoshi exhaust 4-1
-1+2 sprockets and 530zzz chain
Fresh oil and coolant
New plugs
91 octane fuel

It seems to be running great, I guess I was just a little surprised the numbers weren't better?
If anyone has advice I'd love to hear it.
I'm new here, don't bash on me too hard!
 
Dynos are like any measuring tool, you make them read pretty much what you want to.
They should be used for comparison purposes. You got more, that is what counts.
The curve looks great, see what you picked up in torque at 6000 rpms and hp between 7 & 8, that's a win in my book!
 
These guys are dead on, and in every post.
No worries.
Now, unless you plan on not spending any more money on your bike, run, otherwise, Welcome to the org!
 
With those mods aren't those numbers a tad low? Most dynos vary but for comparison my stock 06 netted 160...something at the wheel, not quite 161. A modified set of stock cans (lowered) it by almost five hp to 156 something. Kinda surprised me as I figured that a better breathing exhaust should boost the hp just a little even w/o any other mods. Apparently the factory techs put mine together on a good day!
 
With those mods aren't those numbers a tad low? Most dynos vary but for comparison my stock 06 netted 160...something at the wheel, not quite 161. A modified set of stock cans (lowered) it by almost five hp to 156 something. Kinda surprised me as I figured that a better breathing exhaust should boost the hp just a little even w/o any other mods. Apparently the factory techs put mine together on a good day!

Apparently we can't delete our own posts?! Have no idea how this was posted twice.
 
I'd say you're pretty much in the ball park,most stock Gen I's made around 151-152 rwhp and with a tune,aftermarket pipe(depending on who's),and a PC would bump up to around 161+ rwhp.Brock always swore that a Gen I made the most hp on 87 octane(89 on a Gen II)so that 91 may have cost you a couple.Also,I remember an article from SuperStreetBike where they did some dyno testing with different sprocket combos and the results showed a dyno loss of rwhp by as much as 4+ hp depending on what combo you were using(chances are if you had stock gearing and 87 octane you may have hit that 160+ rwhp).

http://www.superstreetbike.com/bigger-rear-sprocket-makes-more-horsepower-mythbusters
 
Dynos are like any measuring tool, you make them read pretty much what you want to.
They should be used for comparison purposes. You got more, that is what counts.
The curve looks great, see what you picked up in torque at 6000 rpms and hp between 7 & 8, that's a win in my book!

No, actually you can't. You have to go out of your way and get into the data acquisition stack with a small screwdriver to do that. And why would any dyno operator adjust his dyno to read low, anyway? The way to confirm that is to get a print out of the run conditions and compare them to the temp and humidity as reported by the local weather service on the same day. Other factors can be tire pressure and accuracy of the air/fuel readings. O2 sensors need to be checked for accuracy prior to the tune, otherwise you are wasting valuable time and not actually tuning properly. Any measuring instrument has a margin of error, which is why accuracy is of the utmost importance. The resulting curves the OP got do look better, I would bet that particular dyno is off, and the OP should just enjoy the bike and not get hung up on numbers. A good running stock Gen 1 should do about 160 rwhp (SAE) and between 168-172 (or a little better) with a pipe and tune . . . IMHO.
 
Dynos are like any measuring tool, you make them read pretty much what you want to.
They should be used for comparison purposes. You got more, that is what counts.
The curve looks great, see what you picked up in torque at 6000 rpms and hp between 7 & 8, that's a win in my book!
The mid range pickup was great!
It looks like everyone's concencus is the same, I'm going to just go ride!
 
With those mods aren't those numbers a tad low? Most dynos vary but for comparison my stock 06 netted 160...something at the wheel, not quite 161. A modified set of stock cans (lowered) it by almost five hp to 156 something. Kinda surprised me as I figured that a better breathing exhaust should boost the hp just a little even w/o any other mods. Apparently the factory techs put mine together on a good day!
This was my thought exactly which is why I posted the question, the small airbox mod alone has been tested to gain 4 HP. Anyway, all the guys told me not to worry, could be worse! Thanks for the reply
 
I'd say you're pretty much in the ball park,most stock Gen I's made around 151-152 rwhp and with a tune,aftermarket pipe(depending on who's),and a PC would bump up to around 161+ rwhp.Brock always swore that a Gen I made the most hp on 87 octane(89 on a Gen II)so that 91 may have cost you a couple.Also,I remember an article from SuperStreetBike where they did some dyno testing with different sprocket combos and the results showed a dyno loss of rwhp by as much as 4+ hp depending on what combo you were using(chances are if you had stock gearing and 87 octane you may have hit that 160+ rwhp).

http://www.superstreetbike.com/bigger-rear-sprocket-makes-more-horsepower-mythbusters
That's a great article! Im a big guy, which is why i bought a busa in the first place (and the movie biker boyz) I like the sprocket change, pulls my big ass a little harder. And now that mention it, yes the 91 probably cost me on the dyno.
And now that I have the custom map made with 91 I should not change to 87, but probably should be running with 91 regardless of what the dyno reads?
 
The dyno correction is in SAE. Most of what you see posted around on websites and such, the correction factor is STD. According to what the weather conditions were at the time, STD can be 3-4% higher than SAE. BTW, our friends across the pond use DIN correction which can be even more ... 5-6% higher than SAE.
 
The dyno correction is in SAE. Most of what you see posted around on websites and such, the correction factor is STD. According to what the weather conditions were at the time, STD can be 3-4% higher than SAE. BTW, our friends across the pond use DIN correction which can be even more ... 5-6% higher than SAE.

The "before" and "after" on any particular dyno on that same day is what is important. I agree, don't get hung up on numbers, go enjoy that bike :)
 
The dyno correction is in SAE. Most of what you see posted around on websites and such, the correction factor is STD. According to what the weather conditions were at the time, STD can be 3-4% higher than SAE. BTW, our friends across the pond use DIN correction which can be even more ... 5-6% higher than SAE.

Very True, The correction in SAE is conservative BUT the correction factor in STD varies wildly between say, gonorrhea and syphilis (admit it you started thinking this was going to be an informative post!)
 
The one thing the OP did NOT get is a custom map. Run .001 at 5:31 and Run .005 at 6:04? A custom map in competent hands usually takes at least an hour on a Busa, one of the easier bikes to map. All this "tuner" did was keep pulling the bike until it got hotter and made more horsepower. BTW, it takes usually from 4 to 6 runs just to get the engine heat soaked and to get a HONEST read of the "before" rear wheel. When you get two pulls with the same hp, you have what the bike actually makes. This tuner did nothing, I hope the OP got it for free. It is really sad what is going on out there . . .
 
The one thing the OP did NOT get is a custom map. Run .001 at 5:31 and Run .005 at 6:04? A custom map in competent hands usually takes at least an hour on a Busa, one of the easier bikes to map. All this "tuner" did was keep pulling the bike until it got hotter and made more horsepower. BTW, it takes usually from 4 to 6 runs just to get the engine heat soaked and to get a HONEST read of the "before" rear wheel. When you get two pulls with the same hp, you have what the bike actually makes. This tuner did nothing, I hope the OP got it for free. It is really sad what is going on out there . . .

I would surely question that....However,for what it is worth, I typically tune the lower TPS settings (20 and below) first so that fluids get up to temp. Then do my 100% and then back down to the 40-80%. So, 30 minutes between on the 100% pulls, could be common. BUT, I'm not sure about this one because of the loss of tach signal...it could easily be what you say for sure!
 
I would surely question that....However,for what it is worth, I typically tune the lower TPS settings (20 and below) first so that fluids get up to temp. Then do my 100% and then back down to the 40-80%. So, 30 minutes between on the 100% pulls, could be common. BUT, I'm not sure about this one because of the loss of tach signal...it could easily be what you say for sure!

And you know that the first pull is not representative of the horsepower that any bike makes. There are ways any competent (incompetent) tuner can "skew" results, and this is one of them. All he did was pull the bike a few times until the hp numbers went up and then took the OPs money, IMO. Whatever he did, he didn't do a good job, that is for sure. There is more hp, torque, midrange and throttle response to be had with a proper tune . . .
 
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