ECUEDITOR/Hayabusa Gen2 Air Shifter Kill Issue

jpsmith1

Registered
Problem:
System shifts under no load properly but not under load. It had worked properly for a couple years.

Further investigation showed the engine is not killing even with it programmed to max kill time in ecueditor.
Gear position indicator is working properly.
No fault codes showing on dash.
Air pressure set at 140 PSI (confirmed with two gauges).
No air leaks.


Attempts to fix:
Have replaced harness, solenoid, air line, cylinder, air line and regulator. Nothing is leaking.
Reflashed many times.
No visible problems with harness or connections to bike harness.

What is best way to diagnose the lack of any kill time? Is there anything I should be able to see when I have laptop hooked to ECU to test the input? The motor does not stutter at all. Could the mode switch affect the kill circuit?

Thanks!

Bike:
2009 Hayabusa
Cycle-tek air shifter system (shifter, harness, regulator, CO2 bottle)
Pair valve removed but has resistors from Greg Smith and also turned off with ecueditor
Flashing interface from Boostbysmith installed.
 
I had intermittent issues similar to yours, but not nearly that bad. I switched from the shift harness to using a mode select input and my problems went away. I removed the horn and just use the ground side to trigger the ecu for the kill, and use both the hot and ground for a relay to control the solenoid on the air shifter. I may not need the relay but didn't know the amp draw on the solenoid.
 
with a voltmeter, see what voltage the gps sensor has across red and black wire in first gear, then check again while holding in the horn button. If the voltage doesn't dip enough below 1st gear it may not see the trigger for kill. Also, just as an FYI don't try to test the kill function with bike in neutral or with clutch pulled in it wont work. Its possible on your bike I might need to put a lower resistor in the harness to bring the voltage down a little more

As Dennis said, you can try reflashing it for mode input button, then just hit the button and see if it kills, moving it over to this circuit would be relatively easy as well.
 
Thanks Dennis and Greg! I wasn't able to make the time to try again before racing this weekend, so I'll be foot shifting. What is strange is that it worked perfectly for years. What is mode input button? I don't see that in ECUEDITOR. Thanks again for the help!
 
The mode buttons are on the right handle grip assembly and are what you use to switch between A, B, and C modes. In your shifter setup screen you should see an option for the trigger method (don't remember what it is called) and you are using the resistor method right now. Choose whichever mode button you prefer and flash for that. If it does create the kill when pushed you can just rewire your solenoid to ground on the corresponding wire going from the button to the ECU and shift with that mode button. I hooked my horn ground to that wire so I could continue to shift with my horn button. If you do this, make sure your hot wire is switched (I use the hot from the horn) or you'll have a very low current grounding through the ECU when the bike is off and your battery will run down in a few days.

In looking at my wiring diagram I see that I didn't use a relay, figuring the momentary load on the circuit was fine with the elimination of the horn. Of course you will have to disable mode switching in ECU editor or you'll change modes every time you shift!

As for working for years, I have a theory: Everything works before it breaks.
 
Thanks again. I didn't have time for full analysis, but I was able to confirm the the engine will stutter using the mode switch after changing the shift from resistor. Next, I'll check the voltage dip at GPS sensor. I think it would be easier to lower the resistance there than to change everything over to mode switch.
 
So I was looking at the resistor part of the cable, and it appears there is a diode and then a resistor in series. I thought the target resistor was 220 ohms, but there is only a 69 ohm resistor in there. Am I misunderstanding something? Should I be experimenting with less than 69 ohms?
 
Dennis, I think I am giving up on resistor mode. DSM mode does kill the engine and I would also like to use horn button.

Could you please confirm I am thinking about this correctly.

1) Use factory harness for switched horn positive to solenoid
2) Connect solenoid negative to O/R (lower DSM button) or does it go to the ground (B/WI) that both of the DSM switches seem to use?

Do I put the negative from the horn back to the O/R for the mode switch?

Thanks!
 
Suzuki triggers from the negative, so your horn button is switching the negative. The horn itself has a positive that is on whenever the bike is on. You can run share this positive with the solenoid or you can use any other key-switched positive. The negative from the horn should go to the ECU input for whichever mode button you choose. You don't want to hook to the common negative wire, that would be just make your solenoid be on all the time since it is a direct connection to ground.

If you want to choose between the horn and the shifter you'll need a two position switch (horn or shifter) or a three position switch (horn, off, shifter) on the negative wire coming from the horn button, feeding the horn in one position and the mode ECU input + solenoid in the other position.

Consider which mode button you would want manual nitrous on and use the other mode button for air shifting.
 
Thanks for the help. I was finally able to work on the bike yesterday and got it working. I used my GPS cable from Greg and then took off the diode and resistor and tapped that line to the Orange/Red wire for the lower mode switch. I reflashed to use lower mode switch in ECUEditor and it seems to be working fine. Using Greg's cable helped me retain the toggle switch without any additional work. I'll be testing it out next weekend. Thanks again!
 
I already ordered the kit! It will be my first time playing with nitrous. I am sure I will post some dumb questions on using ECUEditor with it very soon :)
 
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