Cam Timing Out?

Discussion in 'Busa problems' started by Isonblade, Mar 15, 2017.


  1. Isonblade

    Isonblade Registered

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    Just in process of removing head, the gasket as gone and pressurising header tank, when headers came off I can see evidence in #3.

    But on setting timing marks up when the crank pully is on tdc mark this is where the cans are, can't be correct?

    Engine is in a car so can't get a clear pic of crank timing mark but it is absolutely on the mark, someone been in before and put it back a tooth out?

    When I put it back together time it properly to marks?

    It ran very well prior to head gasket problem?

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  2. David Offor

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    This is how the marks should look, I'm guessing you know how to set the timing chain correctly, I.e remove tensioner, reset tensioner, maximum sag of chain in the tensioner side of chain, remember to count 15 pins, between arrows, cable tie chain to cam shaft sprockets when in correct position and clamp cam shaft carriers lightly in position, reinstall chain tensioner, then cap, spring and plunger, check timing and pull down cam carrier bolts.

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  3. Isonblade

    Isonblade Registered

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    Thank you, maybe I wasn't clear, the photos above are what I found before I took the head off not after re fitting.

    It was set incorrect?

    On a sadder note now the head is off I cannot find any marks on the gasket, head or block showing a leak into the water jacket, I hope I'm not looking at a cracked head, defiantly pressurising cooling system, I did a chemical test on coolant prior to removing head to confirm combustion gasses in coolent
     
  4. Valingt

    Valingt Registered

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    ben
    So if the 1's are both up then it's out of time?
     
  5. David Offor

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    David offor
    1's????
     
  6. David Offor

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    If it overheated, then it's possible, you just need the head and barrel/cylinder section skimmed but get a thicker base gasket or head gasket (if skimming is needed), to allow for the skimming, depending on the mileage, worth considering rings, valve lapping in and check all your valve shim clearances, change valve steam seals, check for excessive valve guide wear too, while it's apart, new timing chain also but at least get the head pressure tested first.
    If the cam timing was that far out, check also for bent valves.
     
  7. Isonblade

    Isonblade Registered

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    thats the next job, pressure test, i just don't get how it ran so well with cam timing out like that,
     
  8. Valingt

    Valingt Registered

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    ben
    nvm i re looked and im good on timeing

    still dont know why it would back fire in the intake
     
  9. David Offor

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    Mine was backfiring because of a faulty ckps, a Suzuki mechanic told me that the ckps can suffer from 'leaking signal' or be affected by the electricity from the stator windings, which in turn, sends a bad signal to the ecu, so it either produces the spark at the wrong time or poor spark but isonblade problem could be something else.
    Also, my bike had overheated and had warped the barrel section, which wasn't picked up the first time I took my head and mid section into a 'recommended' shop, so, I put it all back together and it blew again, had to strip it all down again and took the parts somewhere else, so, a warped part can blow the head gasket again.
    Don't know why it would run well, so far out of cam timing though.
     
  10. David Offor

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    Can you check that you have the correct cam shafts, I read a post, that said that his cam timing was heavily retarded and it was to do, with the wrong cam shafts being fitted, that's worth investigating.
    If you do have the wrong camshafts fitted and you assemble the engine as per the book, you run the risk of hitting valves.
    If the bike was running correctly with the marks in the positions that you posted, then I think you need to be 100% sure, that your camshafts are correct for your engine, maybe start another thread?
     
  11. Isonblade

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    Would a few pics of the marks on the cams help?

    I defiantly think Simone as been in here before me, head is at machine shop awaiting pressure test, fingers crossed it's "bent"
     
  12. David Offor

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    You could try comparing your cam shafts part numbers (if any) with part numbers for your engine code, cross reference them, better to be safe than sorry, call a Suzuki dealership and explain your problem and ask them, if there are camshaft variations on your model/generation, that if fitted wrong, would advance or retard your engine, I believe a too far retarded engine can run hot, this could've even affected your headgaskt (just another thought).
     
  13. Isonblade

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    Pressure test good, head flat.

    I'm going to put it back together with a new gasket, time cams to "correct" marks, check for no interference and see what happens.

    Does anyone think it possible it was the gasket and couldn't see any marks due to catching it straight away?
     
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  14. David Offor

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    Did you get the mid section/cylinder block checked for flatness? Mine was warped, you don't want to assemble the engine, if you are not 100% sure both surfaces are not warped, its counter productive and will cost much more money and time in the long run.
    Maybe someone can check it in situ, without having to remove the piston crowns (they are a pain to get back in, I had to do mine 3 times).
    Can't give an opinion on setting it up, as per the book, when you stated that the bike ran well, with the cam timing out, by what looks more than a tooth on each cam sprocket.
     
  15. Isonblade

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    Ok, update time.

    New gasket arrived, all fitted, timed up as per book running as sweet as a nut, no temperature problems and pulling like a train.

    I can only assume I caught the gasket as soon as it went and that's why I couldn't see any tracking of the leak, as for the cam timing it was obviously out when I removed the head and by a fair margin.
     
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  16. David Offor

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    That's great news, hope it stays sorted.
     
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