building a drag bike

Discussion in '1/4 Mile' started by busakiller, Sep 14, 2015.


  1. busakiller

    busakiller Registered

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    i have a 03 busa that iam building into a drag bike.

    right now it has for mods

    6 inch extensions
    1 down front 2 up rear sprockets
    race filter
    quick shifter
    pc5
    auto tuner
    mr12
    00 subframe
    full yosh exhaust
    front race plastic
    12 inch extended tail
    lowered front 1.5 inches
    lowering lnks in the rear as low as possible

    best 60 foot 1.566
    best et 9.38

    my plans are
    light weight swingarm 10 to 14 over stock
    side winder
    flat pan
    new lowering links so I can go lowering
    front fender lowering bracket
    Penske shock
    smaller front tire
    air shifter set up
    auto shifter

    I would love some advise on what parts to get. like brands and stuff to watch out for.

    like whats the best auto shift set up?
    what flat pan to get?

    any advise on how to make this bike faster and best place to get parts.

    I do have a spray bar for the bike but I want to get the bike all set up on motor and get my 60 foots down in the 1.4 before spraying this bike.
    thanks for any advise you guys are willing to share.
     
  2. oldgixxer

    oldgixxer Registered

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    rob mac
    Best way to make it go quicker is the rider-mod. Lotta room for improvement on that 60'.

    Id say the bext plan of action is to take it in steps.
    1st-practice practice practice. Get the short time as low as you can,then work on being consistent with the way the bike is set-up now.
    2-Add horsepower.

    The most logical process of going faster is to dial in your set-up and get it to be as fast as it possibly can with what you have now. No sense in adding more power if your not maxing out the bike the way it sits now. Once your dialed it,then make changes one at a time. You will know what works or doesnt work if you do it that way. If you make a bunch of changes simultaneously its hard to pinpoint what you need to change/adjust if the results down the 1/4mi are not as expected.

    Best bang for your buck on a Gen1 would be head/cams/1397 pistons. Thats good for 215-230rwhp+ depending on who does the work and how much you spend on the head,and how big your cams are
     
  3. Superzuki

    Superzuki Registered

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    Lightweight wheels. I was amazed when I put the forged aluminum wheels on. That made my STREET bike a bunch quicker.
    I was talking to a drag racer last week who used carbon fiber wheels and he found that, after several runs, the hubs broke loose. Although the Corrozzeria wheels are heavier than CF they are tougher, too.
     
  4. oldgixxer

    oldgixxer Registered

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    rob mac
    I have BST's on my Gen2. Drag raced regularly since '10,easily over 250-300 passes with no issues as well as 8000mi on the street.

    Was that bie w the carbon wheels a dedicated drag bike,wheelie bar,slick,etc?
    FWIW,BST now sells a reinforced race-application rear wheel
     
  5. busakiller

    busakiller Registered

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    Oldgixxer I plan doing the modifications this winter so next yearI can dial in the set up and dial in my clutch hand.
     
  6. oldgixxer

    oldgixxer Registered

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    rob mac
  7. Stevo80

    Stevo80 Registered

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    Since there hasn't been any answer to your question, let me put my .02 in. lol

    For a pan look up Justin at Two Wheel Werkz (excellent product and customer service)
    Same guy can fix you up with a Tsukigi side winder or you could do Murray or Brocks. I have a ti brocks only because I bought one used in excellent condition for half price :D
    Penske shock is great, don't chalk off a JRI grudge shock though either.
    For a arm, I have ran Evil and Hardcore (currently Hardcore), for best "name" probably mcintosh or dme but I'll stick with hardcore for now. If you want the bike lower look in to a flat link as well (hardcore, adams, etc) this will get you LOW!!
    For autoshift setup I have a setup for Boost by smith, but I have a gen 2
    I also still have a cycletek shifter setup, but he is out of the business apparently, I would say MPS is your choice for now.

    As for people commenting on wheels, BST's are IMO the biggest waste of money for GAIN that you could possibly spend money on. They are for the rich people (I am not rich) that have already spent money on everything else, again IMO. You could sell your wheels and do a poor man R1 wheel swap and lose several pounds there, costing you almost nothing while gaining a much better looking wheel too.

    Don't forget the little things, lightweight battery, oil cooler removal, etc

    First and foremost just have fun with it!!!!
    Cheers!
     
    jacfumo likes this.
  8. busakiller

    busakiller Registered

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    Thanks alot stevo80. You helped me alot. I will look into the jri shock and give hardcore a call on a swingarm. I did email 2 wheel werks about a oil pan but havent heard back from them...... I just bought a sidewinder. Picked up a murray for cheap so I got that on the way. Going to order oil cooler block off plates. Then try getting a oil pan from 2 wheel werks. After Iget that stuff iI will save up and buy the arm, flat link and shock.

    Bike weighs 470 and 670 with me suited.

    Would like to get the bike lighter. I will look into the r1 wheels and get some new brake line to delete one of the front calipers and rotor. Would love to get the bike under 450 pounds by next spring.
     
  9. Superzuki

    Superzuki Registered

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    I didn't ask what brand he used,we were really discussing the merits of forged aluminum. If I could have afforded them I would have gotten CF, now that I have the aluminum, I 'm perfectly happy.
     
  10. icemansid

    icemansid Donating Member Registered

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    Shawn England
    Greg makes great hardware! boostbysmith for your auto shift and air shift harness. you will need to ecu flash but you should be in that game if your going to be serious about racing a busa. For air shifter, check out DME for their high mount (custom nut for motor bolt) and their shift lever. If your interested, i can hook you up with the remainder of air shifter parts, high or low pressure setups.

    I use the DME wedge pan. its very low-profile.

    Murray for best bang-for-your-buck on a sidewider. his new price is half everybody else's price.
     
  11. Stevo80

    Stevo80 Registered

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    Justin is a very busy guy at Two Wheel Werkz, call him and he will either answer or get back to you. He builds a lot of parts and races pro street too, so again very busy guy. Under 450 is possible, it's all about $$$ :D
    Another thing for weight is scraping the stock triples and key switch, horn removal, frame mod cutting out the little brace at the front, shroud removal from the cooling fan, etc. lol
     
  12. busakiller

    busakiller Registered

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    Alright I will give him a call this week for the pan.

    Over winter I will start finding stuff to take off the bike to save weight. I would like to get a differnt gas tank but thats out of my budget for now.


    Ecu flash. I what iam going to with tuning stuff. I would like to keep amd use the stuff I got now.
     
  13. icemansid

    icemansid Donating Member Registered

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    Shawn England
    If nothing else - have your ecu flashed for an air shifter. it is so much nicer vs the MPS kill boxes. The ECU flash will kill fuel & ignition whereas the MPS box is Fuel or ignition (and they are separate boxes).
     
  14. Dennis

    Dennis Registered

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    Check out DynoTune Nitrous for an air shifter. I did a search recently and found their kit to be the most complete and the lowest price for a C02 (or even air) shifter with ECU flash. If you want to improve and make your 60's more consistent check into a hand slider clutch which lets you ride the bike back at the end of the run and even on the street.

    I have Soupy's adjustable lowering links which are a must in my opinion if you plan on dialing in your suspension. You can make spring adjustments and still get the bike at the right height. Don't get obsessed with being lower. Work on getting the suspension to work right.

    As mentioned, Boost by Smith is the way to go for autoshift. I've tired a couple other setups that were just rpm activated switches and there are some issues that I didn't feel like working out. The Boost by Smith unit is a little overkill with the shift and launch light but I just left the light under the plastics with the rest of the electronics.
     
  15. busakiller

    busakiller Registered

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    Yes I want work on getting the chassis set up. But I will do that after my mods and a shock. Then I will hit the track and try dial in my ride skills the chassis.
     
  16. mathews

    mathews Registered

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    The best money you spend will be on a good clutch.MTC ,Hays,etc
     
  17. Kevin Jones

    Kevin Jones Registered

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    And look for used swingarms. I shopped for a while before I found one. Dont spend over a grand. I think you are wanting to go too far back if you are saying 12 but maybe not. The eighth mile grudge bikes around me, mostly zx14s with 40hp dry shot all have about 14" and they hit 5.4, 5.2. You may get some spin but like they said, practice and I need a bunch of it. Clutch control mastery can get you off the line straight forward with feel so the experts say. I have the MPS kill box because I cannot get into my ecu for fear of ruining my tune (dont ask, sore subject). I havent been able to bring the ms down real far yet as as soon as I put the air shifter on, my trans started dropping gears and I dont think its long for this world. i think it happened once or twice before I put the shifter on. Makes me nervous as hell going up to second and fearing it fall back in N at WOT and the tach needle heat seeking. Be smart about the shock. Why not send off yours to get revalved and a spring? You have to give them the swing arm length and your weight and hp but its way cheaper than a $1k shock. You would have just as much adjustability too for a fraction. I wish I had done that. I would say get a swing arm and build the rest around that. Worry about the motor later, you will have enough to invest in just clutch and suspension. Try to do it all at one time and you will be like me, constantly adjusting stuff for making too many changes at one time.
     
  18. Dennis

    Dennis Registered

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    Kevin, you can download the tune from the bike. The old software I use doesn't pick up nitrous settings or other selections but it gets the fueling for sure. The rest (like air shifter, nitrous by gear, oxygen sensor, etc) can all be configured by knowing how the bike works. I do know when I downloaded a turbo bike using ECU boost control it didn't pick up the turbo mapping, but if you don't have a turbo no problem.
     
  19. Kevin Jones

    Kevin Jones Registered

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    Dennis, I have a gen 1. I cannot download the tune, ecu is write only. If somebody could fix that a lot of piggyback systems would no longer be needed.
     
  20. icemansid

    icemansid Donating Member Registered

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    Shawn England
    it is a physical limitation. parts of the circuit board have to be exposed to gain access to the read part of it.
     

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