Brake rotor buttons

Commuta_Busa

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There's been alot of posts lately about brakes so I figured I would post this. It's always a good thing to inspect your rotor very carefully. At the end of the 2009 season I took my rotors off to inspect them because it's difficult to to see the inside of the rotor buttons when eveything is all mounted. If you've got buttons that look like the ones in the pic then you're overdue to replace them. As a foot note I always add a dab of silicon to each lock.

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That is scary looking.
What made the washers lift like that ?

Looks like my son Adam tried to fix them....:laugh:
 
any rotors that have buttons can eventualy have the same results. These rotors are full floaters so the buttons probably take more abuse than OE/semi-floating rotors. I wouldn't say it's a "problem", it's more of a maintenance issue. Sooner or later the buttons have to be replaced.
 
But still why does it look like a 3 yr old tried to pull the washers off with a set of pliers ?

The edges are all lifted and bent.
What made that happen ?
 
My guess is heat! There sure are some pretty colors formed slowing down from 200+ a few times... :laugh:
 
Have you sent those pics to the maker of those rotors and asked them if it is normal results from extreme use ?
Heard of warped, burnt and other things regarding rotors but never seen the washers like that.
 
Yea I'm still waiting on a tech response about my rotors. I sent them away for further inspection. AP Racing has been getting out of the whole motorcycle side of brake systems because of the poor demand. I got my brake system 5 years ago and the engineer is now retired. The company never replaced him so now I've got to talk to car guys about bike stuff. :laugh: I'll keep things posted though. As far as replacement buttons the plan is to go with Al 7068 buttons if I can convince them to do a production run. It's not cost effective to do a run of just 16 buttons. Hell even 32 buttons is on the low side. These can't even be used for Brembo rotors since they use thinner rotors. They could be used but would require a stack of washers to close the gap. :banghead: The other option is to turn the rotors down to the same thickness as Brembo's and use their buttons. I'm still debating what to do...
 
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So here's the update...

No one has ever seen that kind of damage to the washers ever. ??? So after a bit more thought I think I know what may have caused only three out of the eight washer to get bent so badly. I've transported my bike in many different ways since I don't own a trailer or a tow vehicle. I've got a pingel chock I used to use when I had a pickup truck that now collects dust now. I've borrowed trailers that had different chocks already mounted. So here's my guess, the rotor must have hit one of the chocks really hard probably when first loading the front wheel into the chock. You know how depending on the situation you slam it into the chock. With a condor or baxley you have to get some momentum to push it all the way in. The rotor must have slammed into something which put alot of stress on the button and bent the .09mm al washer. The rotors I have are oversized so it's possible that depending on the chock it may hit the rotors.
The other possibility is from a dyno season. I've been to a few different dynos so it's possible that it might have hit the front clamp during loading or clamping.
I checked the rotor and the carrier tand they're both still true. So the only thing needing to be replaced are the washers and clips. :thumbsup:
 
I always check air pressure an other stuff but I have never taken a good long an hard look at my rotors... Even when I bought the bike.... Going out there right now.. Thanks for the post an heads up:beerchug:
 
Thanks for the update.
You think that was it ?
Maybe it was from rotational force and heat that weakened them up and tried to fling them off ?

Maybe ?
Still strange..

Would it not if it had hit the washer also hit rotor and left a mark on it or carrier ?
 
my thought is that the rotor was pushed in and caused the washer to bend. It must have been a one hit thing. If it was a progressive thing I would think that the c-clips would have popped off. They're pretty sturdy so I assume they just to the hit and retained their shape while the thin washer couldn't. The way it's bent on the sides fits in the with rotors. The hole between the rotor and carrier is square.

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Not sure on those rotors, but EBC's prolite rotors use a wave washer, it works like a spring to give the other ring free movement!
 
Hello
did anybody ever remove the floaters, buttons from the original rotors ?
Tried today to drill them off but seem to be hardened.

How did you manage it. Dont want to grind them , in order not to damage the inner or outer rotors.

I got a pair of rotors which are ok ,but floaters are loose. Thats why i will change them.

I have ABM full floating rotors which are secured with a removable ring. The originals are riveted
 
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You could drill out the OE buttons but make sure the replacement buttons retain the same dimensions. You wouldn't want to end up with replacements buttons that are to loose or don't fit at all.
 
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