Brake/Clutch Fluid Change?
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cheferman65
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Not difficult at all, first time you will want someone there with you that has done it before. You know for support.
I do mine 2-3x a year, overkill, yes but it satisfies my OCD and makes me feel real good.
You really dont even need a bleeder at all... Just open the bleeder valve and use a small piece of rubber hose connected to it to drain into something and pump the lever as you fill it up... Only time i used a bleeder was when MC Mustang and I replaced our lines, even then we only used the bleeder to initially fill the lines with fluid and used the pump technique to get the air out and get the levers to pull nicely
Its super easy. Recommended to have a second person to help but its not necessary, just makes it a little harder to do 2 things at once. So no, you dont need one of the bleeder tools but they do work well.
Its super easy. Recommended to have a second person to help but its not necessary, just makes it a little harder to do 2 things at once. So no, you dont need one of the bleeder tools but they do work well.
If you want a MightyVac you may want to check Harbor freight or Nothern Tools if you have one near you. They have the MightyVac brand for half($20, and that's without a coupon) of what Sears and the local auto parts stores charge.
Thanks for the tip sixpack577, I think I will go to my local harbor freight dealer and pick one up tomorrow.
its a hydraulic system so your not gonna mix much of the fluid just whats in the reservoir. get a mityvac type tool. it makes life alot easier and you can use them on anything in the future.
I want to know same thing.
Is there a step by step how to?
I am going to get a mityvac tomorrow. I have done everything else to my bike but never this.
I want to change out my clutch and brake fluid, do fairings or anything have to come off?
IS THE INFO BELOW THE SAME WAY YOU DO IT ON A hayabusa?
How to change the FJR's clutch fluid:
Place bike on centerstand, front wheel pointed straight ahead. Drape heavy, thick terrycloth towels all around your fuel tank and left fairing. Just a single drop of brake fluid can *badly* mess up your paint.... protect your fairings! Obviously, once the reservoir is opened, do not allow handlebars to move or you risk sloshing hydraulic fluid everywhere!
Use screwdriver to remove the two small phillips-head screws that affix the reservoir lid. Remove the lid, the white plastic retainer under it, and the black rubber boot under the retainer. You may or may not see small drops of condensation under the lid, plastic retainer, or on top of the rubber boot. Wipe all items dry with a clean rag.
Use the MityVac to suck out almost all the old fluid out of the reservoir (not all of it, obviously... you don't want to introduce air into the system!), then top off the reservoir with fresh, clean brake fluid.
Again, carefully ensure that your fairings are protected as seen in the below photo, attach your bleeder hose to the clutch slave bleed nipple, create a vacuum with the MityVac, then crack open the bleed nipple with the 8mm wrench.
While carefully watching the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure it never gets too low, pump out the old fluid, stopping every so often to replenish the reservoir fluid levels as the fresh fluid gets drawn into the system.
The nasty old fluid will be apparent as the MityVac sucks it out of the lines, but after several iterations of pumping, refill reservoir, pumping, refill reservoir, etc, you should eventually see fresh, clean, clear brake fluid being sucked out. At this point you're about done; I would still go through another 2-3 iterations of the pumping/refilling routine, just to ensure you remove every bit of the old fluid.
Once convinced you've removed all the old fluid from the system, tighten down the clutch slave bleed nipple, remove the MityVac hose, and reinstall the small rubber boot over the bleed nipple.
Ensure the clutch reservoir fluid level is at the correct full level, then re-install the rubber boot/plastic retainer/reservoir lid. Reinstall the phillips-head screws and snug them down.
Clean up, and Go Ride!
How to change the FJR's clutch fluid:
Place bike on centerstand, front wheel pointed straight ahead. Drape heavy, thick terrycloth towels all around your fuel tank and left fairing. Just a single drop of brake fluid can *badly* mess up your paint.... protect your fairings! Obviously, once the reservoir is opened, do not allow handlebars to move or you risk sloshing hydraulic fluid everywhere!
Use screwdriver to remove the two small phillips-head screws that affix the reservoir lid. Remove the lid, the white plastic retainer under it, and the black rubber boot under the retainer. You may or may not see small drops of condensation under the lid, plastic retainer, or on top of the rubber boot. Wipe all items dry with a clean rag.
Use the MityVac to suck out almost all the old fluid out of the reservoir (not all of it, obviously... you don't want to introduce air into the system!), then top off the reservoir with fresh, clean brake fluid.
Again, carefully ensure that your fairings are protected as seen in the below photo, attach your bleeder hose to the clutch slave bleed nipple, create a vacuum with the MityVac, then crack open the bleed nipple with the 8mm wrench.
While carefully watching the fluid level in the reservoir to ensure it never gets too low, pump out the old fluid, stopping every so often to replenish the reservoir fluid levels as the fresh fluid gets drawn into the system.
The nasty old fluid will be apparent as the MityVac sucks it out of the lines, but after several iterations of pumping, refill reservoir, pumping, refill reservoir, etc, you should eventually see fresh, clean, clear brake fluid being sucked out. At this point you're about done; I would still go through another 2-3 iterations of the pumping/refilling routine, just to ensure you remove every bit of the old fluid.
Once convinced you've removed all the old fluid from the system, tighten down the clutch slave bleed nipple, remove the MityVac hose, and reinstall the small rubber boot over the bleed nipple.
Ensure the clutch reservoir fluid level is at the correct full level, then re-install the rubber boot/plastic retainer/reservoir lid. Reinstall the phillips-head screws and snug them down.
Clean up, and Go Ride!
I picked a mighty-vac up from harbor freight today for $40.00 they usually cost $60.00 for the exact same one.
I think I suggested a copy of the service manual before, here it is again in case you missed it: Service manuals for Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycles, free download of service manuals for your GSXR bikes
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