extrapilot
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Just read the owners manual (Gen 2) and as noted above, this topic is explained, and to just open the throttle 1/8 turn, for a warm engine hard start condition.
Bike is tuff to start hot..
- Thread starter cerebusa
- Start date
Tried the 1/8 th turn yesterday nada. Also I thought maybe idle up so I moved to 1100 rpms. Got stuck in traffic its hot and humid, now it surges up to 1500 back down. Not all the time just when it feels like it. Im checking the connectors and anything else you guys come up with this weekend. I ride the bike everyday and hate getting in a car so got to get her back running right soonest. The shop is the next resort...thanks guys, Mike
KvHotDog4
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Mine is going to the shop tomorrow for this same type of issue. It 1st started not cranking but spinning just fine when is was hot now it is just about everytime I crank it hot or cold it dosn't crank just spins. New battery (been checked), new plugs, clean air filter and change gas. I ran out of ideas so I have an appointment for friday also getting the valves checked. Someone told me its possible for the valves to get tighter ??? which could cause it to not start. I figure 46,000 miles its time to atleast check them. Besides I bought it new in 07 put 46,000 miles on it and all maintainence has been done by me so maybe its time to let someone trained look at it. Still nervous though the engine has never been apart and I am the only one who has ever lifted her tank 
IG.
Registered
Mine is going to the shop tomorrow for this same type of issue. It 1st started not cranking but spinning just fine when is was hot now it is just about everytime I crank it hot or cold it dosn't crank just spins. New battery (been checked), new plugs, clean air filter and change gas. I ran out of ideas so I have an appointment for friday also getting the valves checked. Someone told me its possible for the valves to get tighter ??? which could cause it to not start. I figure 46,000 miles its time to atleast check them. Besides I bought it new in 07 put 46,000 miles on it and all maintainence has been done by me so maybe its time to let someone trained look at it. Still nervous though the engine has never been apart and I am the only one who has ever lifted her tank
What you are describing seems like the starter clutch issue: the starter motor spins, but does not turn the engine. I would guess, replacing the starter clutch could cure this.
On the side note, mine starts in about 1/2 sec - 1 sec when cold, and in about 1/4 sec when hot.
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I have a similar issue with my '01. It starts fine when cold and just a quick run up the street is okay. but the long rides where heat builds up under the bike and hot days makes it harder to start after it sits for a bit just after shut down. Basically just Slow to crank over like the battery is weak. I replaced the battery and keep in on a battery tender and still having the same issue. have replaced the spark plugs every 7000 miles and have a k&n filter. I replaced the exhaust system with a 4into1 titanium hindle high mount and have flushed the coolant with engine ice as well as replacing the fan with a muzzy's fan. I had the bike dyno-tuned at a shop and runs great. just having that one issue when it gets hot...just about 27000 miles on the bike so i am out of ideas. One person did mention putting on another fan on the right side of the radiator? any thoughts?
lease:
lease:
I'm going to throw another suggestion out there that hasn't been mentioned yet. If this is completely off the mark, forgive me because I don't have a first gen to experiment on.
Try this out and see if you get better results.
When the bike is hot and you want to restart it, cycle the kill switch on and off three or more times with the key on before cranking the engine. If the fuel system operates similar to the gen 2, this will cycle the fuel pump each time the kill switch is cycled on. After the third or so cycle, try to start the engine normally.
Again, I don't have a gen 1 to try this on, so this may not be of any value. The problem sounds a lot like vapor lock issues I've had experience with in high performance fuel injected airplane engines. The radiant heat from the engine causes the fuel to "boil" in the fuel line when the bike is sitting with the engine off and no fuel circulating in the system.
I don't know how the fuel pump is designed, but there's a chance that cycling it on and off via the kill switch will help purge the fuel line of vaporized fuel and bring cooler, more dense fuel to the injectors prior to initiating the start cycle.
Another variation that might work (try this for the first time only after you get home from a ride - not when you're out somewhere in case it floods the engine), is to hold the throttle wide open while you cycle the kill switch. I'm not familiar with the fuel pump logic. The goal is to get fuel circulating through the system and back to the fuel tank prior to initiating the start.
Again this may not work for you, but it costs nothing to try but a few seconds. If it works, you should be able to use this technique for every hot start for better success. Additionally if we find the problem is, in fact, vapor lock, there might be an opportunity to install some heat shielding around the fuel lines for a more "factory" solution.
Let us know if this works for you or not. If it does, I suspect a lot of gen 1 riders would like to know.
Try this out and see if you get better results.
When the bike is hot and you want to restart it, cycle the kill switch on and off three or more times with the key on before cranking the engine. If the fuel system operates similar to the gen 2, this will cycle the fuel pump each time the kill switch is cycled on. After the third or so cycle, try to start the engine normally.
Again, I don't have a gen 1 to try this on, so this may not be of any value. The problem sounds a lot like vapor lock issues I've had experience with in high performance fuel injected airplane engines. The radiant heat from the engine causes the fuel to "boil" in the fuel line when the bike is sitting with the engine off and no fuel circulating in the system.
I don't know how the fuel pump is designed, but there's a chance that cycling it on and off via the kill switch will help purge the fuel line of vaporized fuel and bring cooler, more dense fuel to the injectors prior to initiating the start cycle.
Another variation that might work (try this for the first time only after you get home from a ride - not when you're out somewhere in case it floods the engine), is to hold the throttle wide open while you cycle the kill switch. I'm not familiar with the fuel pump logic. The goal is to get fuel circulating through the system and back to the fuel tank prior to initiating the start.
Again this may not work for you, but it costs nothing to try but a few seconds. If it works, you should be able to use this technique for every hot start for better success. Additionally if we find the problem is, in fact, vapor lock, there might be an opportunity to install some heat shielding around the fuel lines for a more "factory" solution.
Let us know if this works for you or not. If it does, I suspect a lot of gen 1 riders would like to know.
IG.
Registered
Your battery can't be good when the bike is cold, and suddenly go bad after a ride when the bike gets hot, so this is not the problem. My riding buddy had a problem that his starter clutch was not installed properly (by him), and was binding when the bike was hot - hence slow cranking. Do you hear any grinding or change in sound when the bike is hot and cranks slowly.
Another possibility is that there is a bad electrical connection somewhere in the igniition circuit which gets worse when the bike is hot. You bike is '01 like mine. I had poor connection somewhere and the bike was shutting down randomly during the ride, so I cleaned all connectors by opening, cleaning (electric contact cleaner - spray) and filling with dialectric grease, and then connecting again. This solved my problem. Took a couple of hours to do that. This includes battery connection, FI connector and all you can disconnect and reconnect again. I think I only skipped on starter connections.
Could be
Another possibility is that there is a bad electrical connection somewhere in the igniition circuit which gets worse when the bike is hot. You bike is '01 like mine. I had poor connection somewhere and the bike was shutting down randomly during the ride, so I cleaned all connectors by opening, cleaning (electric contact cleaner - spray) and filling with dialectric grease, and then connecting again. This solved my problem. Took a couple of hours to do that. This includes battery connection, FI connector and all you can disconnect and reconnect again. I think I only skipped on starter connections.
Could be
Bertactive
Registered
i have a 2000 and im having the same problem after i ride out to the bech take a 30 min break bike wont start wait a good while starts right up,and i dont always hear my fuel pump make the prime wine? Any suggestions it doesn't ever run hot has new plugs turns over but no fire, and ive tried using the throttle
IG.
Registered
My guess would be you have a poor connection in the connectors/wiring needed to start the bike. As the bike gets hot, the connectors expand slightly and lose contact. Once the bike cools off, so do the connectors, and the contact is restored.
Your bike is 11 years old, and probably seen it's share of heat/humidity/cold. Do you keep the bike indoors or outdoors? Do you ride in the rain?
Oh, and way to dig out an old thread, but I guess not that old.
And welcome to the ORG.
busa1300nut
Registered
It s the battery.
Bertactive
Registered
Issue was in part due to the plug under the tank coming loose and the gas line was worn thin and twisted when it got hot,.. Re-routed gas line with fresh line 3/4 inch shorter than stock to avoid Bend and a little tape on that plug got me set
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