Bearings

[MLSDUKE1]

Ok. This thread is a piggy back of my other thread "My Busa Overhaul".

I have heard in the past that there is a way to change your normal engine bearings (for the rods and crank) into a needle bearing setup.



I also work on the Hamilton Sunstrand 54H60-91 and 54H60-117 propellors on C-130's. Around the blade area where it mounts into the hub are bearings that are two halves. I'm wondering if someone has manufactured some bearings that are two halves to use on my crankshaft for my motor.



I have no problem boring out the mains for the extra clearance needed. I'm also wondering if this would be beneficial to the build or is it just a pipe dream? I figure that using a real bearing instead of a normal engine bearing would decrease heat and friction as well as have a longer service life.


Let me know what you think

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Or not........ that's cool too.........................

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Found this, can't figure out how to embed it:

Watch "Rollerized Engines" Video at Engineering TV

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Um, hello? Is anyone out there in Busaworld?

 

[dadofthree]

It's a holiday all the engineers and mechanics have taken the day off to hide there guns

Gotcha

 

[Fastfrog007]

I can make something up and use fancy words I find around the internet if that'll make ya feel better?

The roller bearings present viscosity relating to the specific pressure is 2x the average output during high RPM.

 

[fallenarch]

I don't think anyone can figure out why you feel the need to "fix" one of the strongest, most reliable engines you can buy in a motorcycle. I suppose it would be better using needle bearings, but who knows if it matters. You may do more damage boring out the races than you gain from the needle bearings. Besides, how much engine heat is due to bearing friction when there are gas explosions going off inside at fractions of a second intervals?

 

[MLSDUKE1]

I wasn't trying to reinvent the wheel. Simply asking if there is any gain. Geez

 

[fallenarch]

If I came off as snippy I'm sorry I didn't mean to. You seemed to be wondering why people weren't answering your post so I was pointing out that many will be wondering why mess with a good thing.

 

[MLSDUKE1]

It's all good. Just wondering, with the decrease in engine drag and the increase in usable power and time it takes to get to that usable power, why aren't we doing this? It makes a virtually nil drag which takes fuel savings up. Plus, according to some of the bearing manufacturers, they can make the bearings fit exactly like the normal bearings keeping specs the same.

I just think it might be a good idea IF the price and longevity is right DURING an engine rebuild

 

[GIXERHP]

You need to size the rods to Gen1 Bearing Specs, and if you are using a gen2 crank, the mains need to be sized to Gen2 Mains.

While the motor is apart , it would be very wise to line bore the crank line!

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Those wheels will be in motion if I can ever get someone to get me the info I need . Like I said, if I can get the Gen I crank, stroked, I'm not going to do the align bore. If I can only get the Gen II, I'll take my cases up to the machine shop and get it done. Not going to jump the gun on that.

 

[Fastfrog007]

This comment has no bearing on this thread, but ya see what I did there?

 

[MLSDUKE1]

Turd

This comment has no bearing on this thread, but ya see what I did there?

 

[Redcurbjumper]

You need to size the rods to Gen1 Bearing Specs, and if you are using a gen2 crank, the mains need to be sized to Gen2 Mains.

While the motor is apart , it would be very wise to line bore the crank line!

Gixerhp,
where is a good machine shop you trust to do a line bore job?
im in Tucson but will ship the cases anywhere.

brian

 

[Dnyce]

Do a search for Harry’s machine shop. Everyone says send your cases there for the magic.


Even tho the thread is old, no one ever told the guy posting that the Suzuki gs1100 and 1150 was a roller Bearing style crank, which is bulletproof-once you weld it up. Also weighs a ton. Not worth it in a street Busa. Maybe In a race application but even then You talking negligible gains for alotta work. Needle bearings don’t seem like they would hold the up and down pounding, it’s different stress than a prop

 

[Redcurbjumper]

Do a search for Harry’s machine shop. Everyone says send your cases there for the magic.


Even tho the thread is old, no one ever told the guy posting that the Suzuki gs1100 and 1150 was a roller Bearing style crank, which is bulletproof-once you weld it up. Also weighs a ton. Not worth it in a street Busa. Maybe In a race application but even then You talking negligible gains for alotta work. Needle bearings don’t seem like they would hold the up and down pounding, it’s different stress than a prop

Appreciate it! Installing main studs and predict a change in the alignment when torqued up.

 

[Dopey]

Do a search for Harry’s machine shop. Everyone says send your cases there for the magic.


Even tho the thread is old, no one ever told the guy posting that the Suzuki gs1100 and 1150 was a roller Bearing style crank, which is bulletproof-once you weld it up. Also weighs a ton. Not worth it in a street Busa. Maybe In a race application but even then You talking negligible gains for alotta work. Needle bearings don’t seem like they would hold the up and down pounding, it’s different stress than a prop

@MLSDUKE1 was around a couple months ago so he might actually see your response and is be curious if he ever found out anything after reading this