Sounds like a good time just bein' around that many bikes of ANY kind! Glad you had a good time, bro!
Back from MMI
- Thread starter Mikey D
- Start date
Thats pretty cool! A little note on the TRE or "Wheelie Wire". The factory 1st-3rd retarding feature goes away above 40% throttle or 4000 RPM w/o a TRE. Full throttle = full power.
Did he give you different or new info on this?
Thanks for sharing, very jealeous!
Thanks for sharing, very jealeous!
Mikey D
Registered
He said the Timing retard is for the 1st 4 gears and all throttle positions.Thats pretty cool! A little note on the TRE or "Wheelie Wire". The factory 1st-3rd retarding feature goes away above 40% throttle or 4000 RPM w/o a TRE. Full throttle = full power.Did he give you different or new info on this?
Thanks for sharing, very jealeous!
15k ohm resistor eliminates all that.
busabrother
Registered
very nice
Mikey D
Registered
OK here they are!
Sorry about the B&W & sideways image. I'll figure out these computers someday!
This is a pair of 4th gear roll on runs. It takes a few runs to get the hang of operating the dyno. (Yeah, I know, it's only 2 buttons)
You have to watch the computer screen, stabilize the starting RPM (4000 in this case) and the consistantly roll on the throttle.
You can see I still didn't have the hang of it.
But hey, 161 HP and 100 ft/lbs of torque!
Not shown here is the F/A ratio, which incidently showed Suzie running a tad rich. I was told that with a power commander and a new air filter, we could map out the small flat spot, lean it out a tad and maybe get another 5 or 6 HP.
<!--EDIT|Mikey D
Reason for Edit: None given...|1083183272 -->
Sorry about the B&W & sideways image. I'll figure out these computers someday!
This is a pair of 4th gear roll on runs. It takes a few runs to get the hang of operating the dyno. (Yeah, I know, it's only 2 buttons)
You have to watch the computer screen, stabilize the starting RPM (4000 in this case) and the consistantly roll on the throttle.
You can see I still didn't have the hang of it.
But hey, 161 HP and 100 ft/lbs of torque!
Not shown here is the F/A ratio, which incidently showed Suzie running a tad rich. I was told that with a power commander and a new air filter, we could map out the small flat spot, lean it out a tad and maybe get another 5 or 6 HP.
<!--EDIT|Mikey D
Reason for Edit: None given...|1083183272 -->
Mikey D
Registered
This is a Negative Horse Ppower test. It is supposed to tell you if you have engine or driveline problems. With the roll on test, assuming you have some jiggilies in the top end of the graph, you do one of these and you can tell if it is fuel/electrical related or engine/driveline related.
You start with a standard 4th gear roll on, then when you hit redline, turn off the ignition, with the throttle still WFO.
The bike was initially making a bunch of power and transmitting it to the roller. Now the inertia of the roller is driving the rear wheel, driveline and engine of the bike (hense the negative HP). Any juggles in the peak of the graph will be mirrored at the bottom of the graph (where it starts climbing back to zero) and indicate a mechanical problem.
You can also do it with the clutch pulled to eliminate the engine from the equation and isolate driveline problems.
You are supposed to see a nice smooth curve like this one. The bobble at the far right is operator error. (that's me!)
You start with a standard 4th gear roll on, then when you hit redline, turn off the ignition, with the throttle still WFO.
The bike was initially making a bunch of power and transmitting it to the roller. Now the inertia of the roller is driving the rear wheel, driveline and engine of the bike (hense the negative HP). Any juggles in the peak of the graph will be mirrored at the bottom of the graph (where it starts climbing back to zero) and indicate a mechanical problem.
You can also do it with the clutch pulled to eliminate the engine from the equation and isolate driveline problems.
You are supposed to see a nice smooth curve like this one. The bobble at the far right is operator error. (that's me!)
I don't believe his info is accurate. I am not aware of any retarding in 4th gear and it is by throttle position and RPM, 0-40% throttle and 1000-4000 RPM. Maybe someone else can chime in here but that sounds off from what we all know about TRE's.He said the Timing retard is for the 1st 4 gears and all throttle positions.Thats pretty cool! A little note on the TRE or "Wheelie Wire". The factory 1st-3rd retarding feature goes away above 40% throttle or 4000 RPM w/o a TRE. Full throttle = full power.Did he give you different or new info on this?
Thanks for sharing, very jealeous!
15k ohm resistor eliminates all that.
I would love get on a dyno and custom map mine. You are lucky!
Mikey D
Registered
I agree Justin, it does not match what I've herd around here.I don't believe his info is accurate. I am not aware of any retarding in 4th gear and it is by throttle position and RPM, 0-40% throttle and 1000-4000 RPM. Maybe someone else can chime in here but that sounds off from what we all know about TRE's.He said the Timing retard is for the 1st 4 gears and all throttle positions.Thats pretty cool! A little note on the TRE or "Wheelie Wire". The factory 1st-3rd retarding feature goes away above 40% throttle or 4000 RPM w/o a TRE. Full throttle = full power.Did he give you different or new info on this?
Thanks for sharing, very jealeous!
15k ohm resistor eliminates all that.
I would love get on a dyno and custom map mine. You are lucky!
Not saying that these guys know more or less but, they do run that dyno 12 hours a day.
How bout it board?
What's the real TRE deal?
Similar threads
