airbox mods.......

Thanks for the explanation, Drums; looks like I'll be doing the full mod this weekend...
thumb_up.gif
 
so im guessing ya liked the throttile responds you got out of it ehy
rock.gif
by far this was the easyest mod and gave me the most improvment out of anything ive done so far . love it ! can say enough good things about it .
hope you enjoy it to !

,Justin
 
Reading this is real fun some say yes some say no who is right? Does it loose bottom end? does it make it run eratic on low end? does it gain power in bottom end or top end? My guess is depending on what you are doing. Stock bike I would say dont touch that box it is like that to even everything out I have seen it too many times where someone takes stuff off or modifies stuff like this on a stock vehicle and then wishes they had not done that. Now for a bike with a complete pipe and header system and a way to get more gas I would say jump on it to allow that motor to breath. If you change pipe and header that allows more air out giving you the room to bring more in right? If you add air you better add fuel. I have not done the mod yet I believe that I will do it soon. If my bike was stock I would not touch that box it does not restrict the air it helps control it for their settings you know flowed. My guess is if you change the box you better have a pc a pipe and a header at the least.
 
anyone as a link or a doc saved somewhere of the fast sjonny's site ?
i did mine 3 years ago with the air sensor in the air duct and all but now a freind of mine just bought a 03 busa and he wants to do it too but i cant find the procedure anywhere !

thanks a lot guys!
 
Ive got a 2000 busa done the box mod ,full yoshi ,filter ,has cams valve springs ported head ,found runs best with back to standard box and a tune with a pc3 ,goes real hard and crisp with the mods but it is used for everything from touring to drag racing ,end of the day leave the airbox alone and tune it properly ,now working on my gen2
 
wewe said:
anyone as a link or a doc saved somewhere of the fast sjonny's site ?
Click to expand...

I had Jan's website in my favorites and checked recently,, sadly he has let it all go. The domain is toast.

Here
icon2.gif
LABUSAS ARCHIVE Jan is talking about the 'Pair Valve Removal with BusaMouse, JohnnyCheese, RiceYa and other OG LAB's people.

OG Hayabusa people are rare and hard to find anymore! :laugh:
 
jeepinocala said:
Reading this is real fun some say yes some say no who is right? Does it loose bottom end? does it make it run eratic on low end? does it gain power in bottom end or top end? My guess is depending on what you are doing. Stock bike I would say dont touch that box it is like that to even everything out I have seen it too many times where someone takes stuff off or modifies stuff like this on a stock vehicle and then wishes they had not done that. Now for a bike with a complete pipe and header system and a way to get more gas I would say jump on it to allow that motor to breath. If you change pipe and header that allows more air out giving you the room to bring more in right? If you add air you better add fuel. I have not done the mod yet I believe that I will do it soon. If my bike was stock I would not touch that box it does not restrict the air it helps control it for their settings you know flowed. My guess is if you change the box you better have a pc a pipe and a header at the least.
Click to expand...

Let me just say that when you DO cut your airbox out you WILL wonder why you waited as long as you did to do it! I never looked back when I first did it. Of course to support your remapping issues, I remapped with a 'Tekka Box' and used a BMC Race filter. Those were some of my first mods along with a 41 rear. Next was a 'PCS Modification' for an extra 4-5 hp gain,, and then the whole bike was like a different monster then. Fine for some that want to stay stock. Not for me. I am always tweaking something.
 
hy , i have a problem , i have a 99 busa , and this upgrades : kn filter , power commander , standard manifold modified to 1 exhaust , gsxr 1100 shark can , small airbox mod .... and the problem is it starts hard , black smoke and at low rpm its very without torque and a sudden boost appears in high rpm it's ok , the problem is i can't go with 40 miles/h the legal speed limit in towns , i have to accelerate all the time .... when i don't accelerate the bike does a powerfull engine brake in have a power commander map for a yoshimura with full sistem and air box mod .. please can someone send me a map for a standard manifold with air box mod ? or a link where i can learn to do a map ? Val_avr@yahoo.com

Alll the best from S-E Europe , Romania Valentin :thumbsup:
 
I did the small box mod on my busa, NO power commander, just a yoshi full exhaust and it ran pretty good...I cant complain! And i seen on dyno charts before and after the small box mod and it looks like its good for about 6HP!! Quick and very easy mod for that 6HP!! :drool:
 
Someone referred to velocity stacks.... Does that help with the airbox mod? And which stack would be that of choice. Of course this will be based on opinion but I definitely wanna do the small box mod to my 05 baby busa but I like to do all my upgrades at once. Any assistance out there? Thank you

~dre
 
I have Micron slip-ons, K & N filter, and buying a PCIII, what map should I use if I also do the small air box mod????
 
TightEfx said:
Someone referred to velocity stacks.... Does that help with the airbox mod? And which stack would be that of choice. Of course this will be based on opinion but I definitely wanna do the small box mod to my 05 baby busa but I like to do all my upgrades at once. Any assistance out there? Thank you

~dre
Click to expand...

It can slightly change the powercurve if you go with all short stacks. A little more towards the top of the RPM range for a little loss in low RPM torque. All long stacks will have opposite traits. Personally, on a stock engine, leave it alone as the GEN I Hayabusa is a very mild setup and will not gain enough to make it worth doing.

If you run nitrous, then I would go short stacks for better distribution among all 4 cylinders.
 
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