Ams 1000 Screwy, I'm Stumped

T

turbojonny

Registered
The decrease solonoid clicks if I simultaneously touch the boost sensor and any metal on the bike. I've checked every wire I can, no shorts.
The bike has been going 10.1 to 1 on boost before it chokes out.

I had the ams set on gps based boost and it had been working fine for years, although when the AMS is tuened off the bikes gps mis indicates the gear position. I recall a couple of times in the recent past that the bike fluttered on boost. Now I'm thinking I was probably feeling this "over rich" issue starting to develope.

The bike runs leaner when I take the AMS out of gps mode. Also, when the ams is not in gps mode the factory gps indicator only reads blank or the number 1.

I am very stumped.

I've checked the return line and all other fuel lines, replaced the map sensor (no a/f change at all), checked the vacuum lines fir proper routing, and I have ruled out boost leaks.

Should I remove the AMS 1000 from the system to verify it's the source of the problem? I think it may be internally shorted and killing boost and/or confusing the bikes gps.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

Jonn
 
Sounds like you found the problem. You have a short somewhere. Check all the wiring and see where the casing is rubbed through, or pinched.

If all the wires are fine, lift the ams off the mounting surface if it's also mounted to metal and see what it does. Lastly start taking one wire off at a time on the map sensor. Then both wires per solinoid at a time. That's the best way to isolate where your short is.
 
just be aware that the AMS 1000 in gear position mode will not read voltage properly and will jump around. real PITA! its a problem Seb is aware of and he states if u want to ride ur bike in gear position mode buy the AMS 2000 lol. that was his fix. I guess he's not redesigning the AMS 1000.
 
It varies from bike to bike. Some they work great and others it's useless.

Ams2k doesn't have a gps mode. Although you can do boost control by speed which is actually better.
 
mine works PERFECTLY since I upgraded to a genII GPS switch and A home made 5volts feeding it
WAY STABLE voltage
 
Boosted Cycle Perf said:
It varies from bike to bike. Some they work great and others it's useless.

Ams2k doesn't have a gps mode. Although you can do boost control by speed which is actually better.
Click to expand...

Actually, the AMS 2000 does, that what makes it so nice. You can graph the gear position voltages and the controller will never lose the signal or drop boost because of a variation in running voltage . . .
 
Thank you all for the advice and direction.

Yah, I remeber fighting the gps voltage with the ams when I first got it. I called Seb and we got it spot on.

I thought I had homed in on the fueling issue but it got worse today. It was ok up to about 1/4 throttle. Now it sucks all around.
I'm setting up an appointment with our areas only true bike turbo shop. They ecu flash and build "stuff". They're a month out, so Ill have lots of time to continue troubleshoothing.
I'll keep checking each wire. I watched the gps on the ams read each gear, and it appears steady. Im going to run the co2 to it and see if it holds the per gear psi. Right now I can hear one of the solonoids constantly clicking when the ignition is on but the motor is off. Maybe its normal.
I reflashed the ecu with the old map. Richard at RCC resent the map to me (have I mentioned he is awesome) and I loaded it prior to this mornings failed ride.
If I had an IQ of maybe 10 points more life would be a lot easier, lol.

So far Ive checked the most visible wires, checked for leaks, disconnected the ams, and put my hands on my hips and mumbled swear words, replaced the map sensor, che ked the map sensor wires for continuity, switched the map in and out of gm 3bar (neither were good). Richard was kind eniugh to email me this morning and he's saying no way on the issue being the map after the re-upload. Plus, the fact that it got worse as I rode it tells me something is failing, as opposed to mismapped or mis uploaded.


I'm off work now and heading home. I'm going to flash a stock map in the ecu and see if it throws any additional codes.

Id love to see tps code, or something simple like that, although Im pretty sure it would have thrown a code for almost every other sensor if it was bad, except the ias and pair valve.

Thanks again everyone. Ill keep you all posted.
 
GNBRETT said:
ummm yea it does I know this cause I use it. u shud know that Rob cmon....
Click to expand...
Ams 2k? What's that?

Perhaps I've looked over that as I've found that speed based works so much better then gps ever did. Way smoother power delivery.

I started using that on my drag car, but found that it works just as well on a turbo street bike on the highway.

IMG_0320.JPG
 
I'm in the Seattle area. There's a bad ass bunch of Honda tuners near me that run a place called The Speed Factory. I tried to convince them to get into bikes, but no go. They hold the National record for some crazy quick class of drag door slammer. They run 75lbs. of boost through pumpkin sized turbos.
I'm gonna keep workin on them to take bikes...at least mine.

No codes, other than the idle speed control valve, which is removed.
Now that it got worse I did notice that the a/f no longer changes with the ams 1000 on vs. off. It used to get richer when it was in neutral with the AMS turned off. It would go from 13ish/1 down to 11/1.

I just ordered a new tps and secondary tps. If they turn out not to be the problem I'm ok with it. The bike has 32k on it, so I like the idea of new sensors.
 
Worst thing you can do is suggest, or try to talk someone in to making an exception to work on a platform that they're not familiar with.

Yes, it's a 4 cylinder turbo engine and that's where the similarities stop. They don't know the software, and don't know what these bikes like. Out of convenience for yourself, you could ultimately end up costing yourself a lot more money.

Tps sensors aren't going to fix your bike.

Just to put this out there, to ship a bike is usually $7-900 round trip to Houston. Something to think about.
 
This isn't mine but I have had some fabrication work done at Speed Factory, they raise welding and fabrication to an art form. Their stuff is as good looking as what ToxicFab use to do.

Cj-SF-S2K-Large.jpg
 
I want to provide a follow up for this thread. The problem was a huge boost leak and NOT the AMS 1000. It's performing as it should now that the boost leak is fixed.
 
that wud be a horrible idea! stick with an experienced Busa Tuner!

turbojonny said:
I'm in the Seattle area. There's a bad ass bunch of Honda tuners near me that run a place called The Speed Factory. I tried to convince them to get into bikes, but no go. They hold the National record for some crazy quick class of drag door slammer. They run 75lbs. of boost through pumpkin sized turbos.
I'm gonna keep workin on them to take bikes...at least mine.

No codes, other than the idle speed control valve, which is removed.
Now that it got worse I did notice that the a/f no longer changes with the ams 1000 on vs. off. It used to get richer when it was in neutral with the AMS turned off. It would go from 13ish/1 down to 11/1.

I just ordered a new tps and secondary tps. If they turn out not to be the problem I'm ok with it. The bike has 32k on it, so I like the idea of new sensors.
Click to expand...
 
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