Servicing

Most guys will say that the valve clearance is ok well after the recommended checking interval, which I think is something like 16k miles. Coolant is good to change (and easy) before it is bad. Honestly I've gone 8 years on my coolant before changing and didn't see any evidence of issues, but I would recommend something like 4 years. Obviously I don't follow my own advice! I changed out brake and clutch fluid sooner that as it was discolored.
 
I never have changed coolant in any of my busas. No need really unless you have issues.
 
Most guys will say that the valve clearance is ok well after the recommended checking interval, which I think is something like 16k miles. Coolant is good to change (and easy) before it is bad. Honestly I've gone 8 years on my coolant before changing and didn't see any evidence of issues, but I would recommend something like 4 years. Obviously I don't follow my own advice! I changed out brake and clutch fluid sooner that as it was discolored.
TQ Dennis for sharing:beerchug:
 
I can't speak of the valve clearance check; my Busa is only a little over 2 years old (it's getting close to the mileage though), but changing the coolant and brake fluid changes are inexpensive, and easily do-it-yourself type of things for peace of mind. Like oil changes; I prefer to do it more than might be required; but I think I'd rather err on the side of caution. I wanna keep my baby in tip-top shape! :)
 
I've changed the coolant myself (not difficult), but I have YET to have valve clearance checked on my 08.
 
I can't speak of the valve clearance check; my Busa is only a little over 2 years old (it's getting close to the mileage though), but changing the coolant and brake fluid changes are inexpensive, and easily do-it-yourself type of things for peace of mind. Like oil changes; I prefer to do it more than might be required; but I think I'd rather err on the side of caution. I wanna keep my baby in tip-top shape! :)
Tq sugarbear :beerchug:ya need to keep our baby in good condition
 
What you need is the GEN 2 Service Manual (.pdf) which outlines the procedure. I have it but would have to figure out a file-sharing service to get it to you. Send me a PM.
 
The work you describe is relatively inexpensive and worth it knowing that it has been done by a licensed shop. I guess it's just me but when I am running hard the last thing I want to come across my mind is valve adjustment intervals and fluid change out. However that is just me.
 
The work you describe is relatively inexpensive and worth it knowing that it has been done by a licensed shop. I guess it's just me but when I am running hard the last thing I want to come across my mind is valve adjustment intervals and fluid change out. However that is just me.
Thks bro :beerchug:
 
At 24k miles, my 14 had one exhaust valve that deffinitely needed adjustment and all the other exhausts were on the tight side too. When I checked them 10k miles later, all were exactly as I set them. I believe they wear in and after that, they change very, very slowly. Checking the valve clearance is not too bad but adjusting is a lot of work and you better be very careful. No room for almost or maybe! I don't recommend people do it themselves unless they don't mind having the bike out for a long time or if they are mechanically inclined. I don't usually think a shop is a good choice either. I'd only let a shop do it if they let me come in to view the test before and after the adjustment and I would be glad to pay a couple hun for that extra service if that's what it took. It's too east to say the work was done when they never touched it. You can't tell any difference by how the bike runs.

Coolant change is not too hard. You can drain most of it just by taking the plug out like an oil change. Run distilled water in there and drain. Repeat a few times. Hardest part is getting the coolant to the correct strength after flushing with distilled water. DON'T use premixed coolant. You won't ever get it to the correct strength unless you flush and drain twice with coolant after you flushed with distilled. Use concentrated coolant, ONLY motorcycle specific and for aluminum engines. Mix 50/50 with distilled water. Fill it most of the way and let that run in the motor. Test and add pure coolant to adjust the strength---or pure distilled water but you probably won't need any more water since the hoses and water jackets all had almost pure water trapped in them from flushing. The busa has a nifty little air release port for the coolant system. It's hard to see and reach but I have a tutorial on here somewhere that will show you. I really don't know if you need to use it. My 14c doesn't have one and I've changed coolant a few times with no trapped air issues at all. Pour slow and tip the bike back and forth as far as you can while it runs, tap the hoses, let the coolant bleed over the top of the filler neck, you will be fine. If you really want to go all out, take one end off of each hose and pour the liquid out after you drain coolant/flush water. There will still be a significant amount trapped in the motor.
 
At 24k miles, my 14 had one exhaust valve that deffinitely needed adjustment and all the other exhausts were on the tight side too. When I checked them 10k miles later, all were exactly as I set them. I believe they wear in and after that, they change very, very slowly. Checking the valve clearance is not too bad but adjusting is a lot of work and you better be very careful. No room for almost or maybe! I don't recommend people do it themselves unless they don't mind having the bike out for a long time or if they are mechanically inclined. I don't usually think a shop is a good choice either. I'd only let a shop do it if they let me come in to view the test before and after the adjustment and I would be glad to pay a couple hun for that extra service if that's what it took. It's too east to say the work was done when they never touched it. You can't tell any difference by how the bike runs.

Coolant change is not too hard. You can drain most of it just by taking the plug out like an oil change. Run distilled water in there and drain. Repeat a few times. Hardest part is getting the coolant to the correct strength after flushing with distilled water. DON'T use premixed coolant. You won't ever get it to the correct strength unless you flush and drain twice with coolant after you flushed with distilled. Use concentrated coolant, ONLY motorcycle specific and for aluminum engines. Mix 50/50 with distilled water. Fill it most of the way and let that run in the motor. Test and add pure coolant to adjust the strength---or pure distilled water but you probably won't need any more water since the hoses and water jackets all had almost pure water trapped in them from flushing. The busa has a nifty little air release port for the coolant system. It's hard to see and reach but I have a tutorial on here somewhere that will show you. I really don't know if you need to use it. My 14c doesn't have one and I've changed coolant a few times with no trapped air issues at all. Pour slow and tip the bike back and forth as far as you can while it runs, tap the hoses, let the coolant bleed over the top of the filler neck, you will be fine. If you really want to go all out, take one end off of each hose and pour the liquid out after you drain coolant/flush water. There will still be a significant amount trapped in the motor.
Thks mate :beerchug:for sharing and advise :thumbsup:
 
It is funny how everyone has their own preferences. I change all fluids every 4 years, more if I could ride it more often. LOL, but it only goes to the dealer for things I cannot do, like fork seal service or the like.
 
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