Chachachachachanges

HoboJoe

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Could someone please explain to me the basics of why one would make changes to the sprockets fore or aft. One or two teeth up or down here or there, in order to achieve what? Low end power? Top end? Better pull thru out? Also what effect those changes might have on related components. Finally, how those Mods would effect the accuracy of the Speedo and the overall Streetability and (if you'll pardon the pun) Civility of one of the Beasts. I know I Spec'd my Truck to do 1300R's in top gear which equates to 67Mph. That is the sweet spot on this Cat motor. Do these motors, and the Bike in general have a Sweet Spot or are they capable thru out.? Trying to get a better idea of what the owner was after with the Mods he made and therefore the primary use he had in mind. Thanks as always
 
Changing the gearing does exactly as you thought. It improves low, top end of the bike depending on how you gear it. Going down in gear generally improves low end and in turn you may lose some top end. Going up in gear usually works opposite. Of course there are other variables to consider that could also effect this ie. motor work, turbos, exhaust etc etc. Snagged this off of Tamparacing.com

GEAR RATIO = SPEED IN GEARS

Gearing 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th

16/39 77 104 132 157 178 194
16/40 75 101 129 153 173 189
16/41 73 99 126 150 169 184
16/42 72 97 123 146 165 180
16/43 70 95 120 143 161 176

17/39 82 111 141 167 189 206
17/40 80 108 137 163 184 201
17/41 78 105 134 159 180 196
17/42 76 103 131 155 176 191
17/43 74 100 128 152 171 187

18/39 87 117 149 177 200 218
18/40 85 114 145 173 195 212
18/41 83 112 142 168 190 207
18/42 81 109 138 164 186 202
18/43 79 106 135 161 182 198

19/39 92 124 157 187 211 230
19/40 89 121 153 182 206 224
19/41 87 118 150 178 201 219
19/42 85 115 146 173 196 214
19/43 83 112 143 170 192 209
 
And all that depends on your riding. Maybe you'd like a little more snap coming out of a corner, so you could try -1 in the front. Stock the speedo is off by atleast 10%. On top of gearing,are you still stock as far as power goes?
 
Another thing that concerns me. This Bike has only one Rotor up front. Does that tell me it's primary use would be in the 1/4 Mi and its stopping power under those conditions would not be of paramount concern? Since my use would be exclusively on the street, if it doesn't stop confidently it's gonna be a problem. This is after all a nearly 500lb machine and considerably more with my fat Arse on it. This is what I'm asking as far as its Streetability. It's civility and it's capabilities in the real world. Thanks as always
 
Yeah put another rotor up front and make sure your master cylinder is made for two rotors. Some remove rotors for weight loss and some to show off their bling wheels. Braking is paramount in such a fast and relatively heavy bike if you ride it like it was designed to be ridden. EBC HH pads are a nice addition too. As for gearing, you can make it a dragster or a top speed runner or, you can rely on Suzuki's engineering efforts that make it the best uber sport touring machine around and leave it the way they made it. In cruise mode, 95 mph (indicated) @ 5,000 revs seems to be my sweet spot. I had a good laugh one day passing a large group of Harleys @ 95. As I passed the lead bike he came up beside me and downshifted like he wanted to go. It sounded quite modified and looked like a serious motorcycle. So, I nodded and downshifted too...three times.:D He looked over, shook his head and pulled back in line with the other Harleys.
 
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Well spoken and to my points. Thanks. Some guys I know back off the front breaks on their trucks as well thinking a little less breaking power will stop the front end from getting stupid. Never made sense to me. On anything I drive or ride I want all the stopping power I can get. If it saves me even once it was well worth any other trade off I had to make. Thanks
 
Just stirring the pot, but isn't the 1/4 mile kind of the ultimate test of 1 rotor? 140mph to 20 or so before you hit the end of the track? All I know is last April, 2 rotors was too much of my front end rolling 60 as she locked up and I put her on the side. Just curious here. 1 rotor, stock pads and ss line. She comes to a stop prett quick.
 
Just stirring the pot, but isn't the 1/4 mile kind of the ultimate test of 1 rotor? 140mph to 20 or so before you hit the end of the track? All I know is last April, 2 rotors was too much of my front end rolling 60 as she locked up and I put her on the side. Just curious here. 1 rotor, stock pads and ss line. She comes to a stop prett quick.

Imagine how much faster she would stop with 2 rotors!
 
Hey Jake. Don't mind you stirring the pot at all. That's why I like it here. As long as someone isn't rude in the tone of their reply it's all good. A varience of opinion, thought, and experience. Knowledge is key and there is no substitute for experience.
 
I may be mistaken, but I was under the impression that two rotors helped more with brake fade than stopping power. One rotor has no problem locking up the front wheel all by its self.
 
If you are locking up the front wheel and dropping the bike, and you think it's because it has 2 rotors/calipers instead of one, then no disrespect...but you really need to work on your braking.
I get that one front rotor will still stop most dragbikes(and it's done for less rotating mass, weight on the bike, ect) but that one caliper/rotor is working alot harder, putting off alot more heat, and not able to stop you as short or as easy as 2 rotors and calipers.
I would never limit my ability to stop, and I practice braking every time I ride.
Track or street, stopping even a few inches shorter can be the difference in riding away on your bike, or in an abulance.
There are better pads out there that Will stop you sooner too, and without needing to stay hot. EBC makes "Extreme Pro" HH pads, different from their standard HH. As the EP pads are ceramic embedded. They are street pads. Stay away from "race pads", as these are meant for track/road course racing. They need to be kept hot(used often, as they would be on a track), in order to function/stop you the best.
Stainless steel brake lines won't stop you any shorter, but they really improve the lever feel.
It's firm all the time, not spongey.
Rotors will also do nothing to improve stopping. Some weigh less, some claim they cool faster, none of it would really be noticeable. A better master cylinder can stop you shorter as well. Being able to put more force on the pads sooner.
But, none of it does much without practice.
I make no claims to be Mr. super rider, but practicing to the point where you can do a small stoppie consistantly can save your life.:beerchug:
 
I may be mistaken, but I was under the impression that two rotors helped more with brake fade than stopping power. One rotor has no problem locking up the front wheel all by its self.

It does, and the brakes fade because 1 rotor/caliper is doing the work of 2.
Heating up, glazing, and fading much faster than 2.
 
Sprocket changes basically move your mph up or down in the rpms.
A -1 front and +3 rear equal about the same overall gearing.
The -1 front will slightly lengthen the wheelbase(good for drag racing).
A +3 rear will slightly shorten the wheelbase(good for cornering).
Either raise the rpms about 600 on the gen1 or 2 Busa engine.
Not a problem cruising, but gets you into the power quicker. 6k rpm(roughly), stock Busas really start to make power.
-1 and +3 combined works good too, but it's mainly personal preference(or geared for specific track/conditions).
-1 front, +3 rear, or both, will fit the stock chain, with enough slack for adjustment.
Rambling on, if your chain is too tight, the rear suspension will be off. As the shock will not be able to move it's entire range of motion. And, if the rear suspension is off, then it doesn't matter if the front is good, as it will throw the whole bike off(and vice versa).
Set the suspension sag for Your weight.
Suspension is set to nothing specific at the factory. Correct sag is a dramatic street/road course track riding difference over anything less. Drag racing suspension is completely different set up.
Finally, tire pressure. Check it often.
Personally I never go above 36 psi front or rear, and will go to 33/34 on good hot need dragging day. 36f/38r for alot of highway.
And add a lb to the rear for a passenger.
Psi goes up 3-5 average as tires heat up.
42psi per manuals are bs.
Bike companies don't make tires, and they don't want sued. Usually they just recommend staying below the max psi of 42.
Which if you check before you ride, quickly becomes 45-46.
That little contact patch is all that's between you and the road. The lower the psi, the bigger the contact patch.
Drag racing psi, again totally different(really low rear psi).
But you still want good grip from the front!
 
Stock Busa speedometers are off around 7%
A Speedohealer or Speedlabs module plugs inline of the factory harness. Under the left/shifter side fairing.
They can be set for any sprocket combo and/or tire size, stock or not. They will make your speedo gps accurate, or within 1mph.
Simple and worth doing.
 
I'd imagine that since his bike is already set up with just one rotor it's probably geared pretty low, unless the previous owner did it just for looks. Since Six pack brought it up, what gen is the bike?
 
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