More Improvement Advice Needed

[Shawn721]

I have 2014 Hayabusa that I like to take to track days sometimes. It has r77 full exhaust, power commander, autotune (I know this is not the favorite of most guys here but the dyno air fuel ratio says it's working good). I just ordered brembo brake master cylinder, reservoir, single banjo line for rear and double banjo type for front.

Next I am looking at suspension. I am into bodybuilding so I go between 255-280lbs normally at 6'1. Stock suspension just is not able to handle my weight. I already tried adjusting setting at last track day. So I am planning on just ordering better suspension. I do ok financially so I can really go any direction here. So many options though and don't want to just go with ohlins forks if other stuff works just as good for less. Don't mind spending but don't like wasting money lol

 

[sixpack577]

You won't go wrong with Ohlins.

and fyi, your rear brake is going to be lightswitch responsive with the ss line.

 

[nosbig]

You won't go wrong with Ohlins.

and fyi, your rear brake is going to be lightswitch responsive with the ss line.

What Sixpack said. Ohlins all the way if your bank account allows it and you will have to learn your rear brake all over again because it will lock up at a touch.

 

[Shawn721]

I believe you on the rear brake for sure. It locks up now. Amazing how good the back brake is but the front brakes are so horrible lol Does brembo master cyclinder for the clutch make much difference? I just want it to match truthfully. Clutch is pretty smooth overall though except if I do a soft shift and it stops displaying the gear but is still in gear if that makes sense.

 

[nosbig]

You can't shift a busa softly. They are bad about not going completely into the next gear. A pro factory shift star will help with that, but for the cost it is cheaper to just shift it like you mean it.

 

[Shawn721]

I noticed that. Maybe because I only have 1,800 miles on it I still don't ride it like the cbr. Gearbox is so smooth though.

 

[Shawn721]

I only actually use the clutch on downshifts. All up shifts are done with engine braking. So smooth that way.

 

[nosbig]

I noticed that. Maybe because I only have 1,800 miles on it I still don't ride it like the cbr. Gearbox is so smooth though.

I did not necessarily mean you have to ride the bike hard. I ment that your foot action has to be firm. That is with or without the clutch.

 

[Shawn721]

I know what you meant. It wants to go in next gear with just a touch. Need to shift thru the entire foot motion regardless. But I definitely ride it hard no doubt. Honestly going faster and driving more aggressively gets people's attention which in turn means they notice you. Only close calls I ever had were when I would just go with flow of traffic. Coming up on a car at 140 they just move out of your way which gets the attention of other drivers. I honestly think it's safer to ride more aggressively. Obviously not where there are lots of side streets. Highways definitely safer to ride aggressive and get people's attention.

 

[c10]

Shift star from factory pro helps , but does not FIX it . Talking with Billy @ Robbinsion Industries a company specializing in motorcycle transmissions one of the big issues with Gen II trans is number of shift dogs vs Gen I .
What I can tell you is your Gen II will get better with millage as mine did . For the 5th to 6th change pull the clutch to the BAR ! 5 / 6 is the worst offender in false neutral . GP shift set up helps greatly over normal pattern especially for a track day .
Since you have Dyno Jet products I would recommend there quick shifter set up . Also there is only about 300 RPM's between 5 th gear , and 6th . I only use 6th for open hwy riding . I have 8200 miles on my Gen II since new last July 31st it is far better than day one or @ millage 1000 with Factory pro shift kit/star .

 

[sixpack577]

I did not necessarily mean you have to ride the bike hard. I ment that your foot action has to be firm. That is with or without the clutch.

I did not necessarily mean you have to ride the bike hard.

Yes you did.

 

[nosbig]

I did not necessarily mean you have to ride the bike hard.

Yes you did.

No, you don't have to, but it is highly recommended.

 

[mabupa]

I believe you on the rear brake for sure. It locks up now. Amazing how good the back brake is but the front brakes are so horrible lol Does brembo master cyclinder for the clutch make much difference? I just want it to match truthfully. Clutch is pretty smooth overall though except if I do a soft shift and it stops displaying the gear but is still in gear if that makes sense.

To answer your clutch MC question, I changed to a brembo and a SS braided line just to match the brembo MC I had bought for my brakes. I feel like it gives me better feedback, but I had no complaints about the OEM clutch setup. As for your shift light going blank, mine did the same and it got progressively worse no matter how I shifted. I found some threads were guys were taking things apart and cleaning the gear position sensor, but after seeing the work involved to get to it (and most likely needing a new cover gasket), I decided to just order a new clutch cover gasket and sensor and be done with it. That fixed my issue.

 

[Shawn721]

Thank you for that advice. It's still under warranty so that may cover it

 

[Shawn721]

Shift star from factory pro helps , but does not FIX it . Talking with Billy @ Robbinsion Industries a company specializing in motorcycle transmissions one of the big issues with Gen II trans is number of shift dogs vs Gen I .
What I can tell you is your Gen II will get better with millage as mine did . For the 5th to 6th change pull the clutch to the BAR ! 5 / 6 is the worst offender in false neutral . GP shift set up helps greatly over normal pattern especially for a track day .
Since you have Dyno Jet products I would recommend there quick shifter set up . Also there is only about 300 RPM's between 5 th gear , and 6th . I only use 6th for open hwy riding . I have 8200 miles on my Gen II since new last July 31st it is far better than day one or @ millage 1000 with Factory pro shift kit/star .

What does quick shirt actually do? I only use the clutch going into first gear or down shifting. Going up I just use throttle to shift. That's why I didn't bother with it because I figured it is the same time for the way I shift to quick shift. What advantages does quick shift have over using throttle to shift?

 

[c10]

Well for a start your method works , but is slower than a quick shifter . 1st when you back off the throttle to unload the trans to up shift your losing time ( milliseconds ) A quick shifter eliminates you unloading/closing the throttle it detects shift pressure through a strain gauge , then kills the engine via coil / fuel ( model dependent ) typical kill times are adjustable but usually range in the 55 to 80 millisecond range . You never close the throttle for a up shift . In a 1/4 mile this nets typically a 10th of a second over your current method .
In road racing ( track size dependent ) several seconds can be gained per lap .

 

[Busashot]

I use Ohlins but don't think that is the end all of suspensions. Anything over stock will be quite noticeable and more enjoyable. Most of the suspension companies have some good packages that may save you a lot of money over Ohlins yet give similar performance. Of course debatable.......

Traxxion, RaceTech, Works, GPSuspension.....check them all out.

Regardless, a good suspension just plain feels better even if you can't exploit it fully.

 

[dadofthree]

EBC Extreme Pro pads when the factory set wears out

 

[Shawn721]

Well for a start your method works , but is slower than a quick shifter . 1st when you back off the throttle to unload the trans to up shift your losing time ( milliseconds ) A quick shifter eliminates you unloading/closing the throttle it detects shift pressure through a strain gauge , then kills the engine via coil / fuel ( model dependent ) typical kill times are adjustable but usually range in the 55 to 80 millisecond range . You never close the throttle for a up shift . In a 1/4 mile this nets typically a 10th of a second over your current method .
In road racing ( track size dependent ) several seconds can be gained per lap .

Interesting I may get that.

 

[Shawn721]

I use Ohlins but don't think that is the end all of suspensions. Anything over stock will be quite noticeable and more enjoyable. Most of the suspension companies have some good packages that may save you a lot of money over Ohlins yet give similar performance. Of course debatable.......

Traxxion, RaceTech, Works, GPSuspension.....check them all out.

Regardless, a good suspension just plain feels better even if you can't exploit it fully.

6'1 255-280 is my normal range when bulking and cutting. RaceTech Spring only goes to 250 like most other companies. GPSuspension same thing on hard racing site I got brembo from. Any suggestions that can have rear end setup for that weight and easy to change settings on depending on which way I go weight wise?