Question about adjusting rear brake

FloydV

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I am adjusting the rear brake lever so that I don't inadvertently let my boot ride the pedal and wear out the rear pads.

As you can see, there are two nuts. One I have backed off about three turns, and that makes me have to push a lot further down to engage the brake. There is a spring that holds it at a constant height, but until I push about three inches down, there is no pressure on the rear brake.

My question is: what keeps the nut from moving in either direction. There is no lock nut. There is a small nut up near the black rubber part. It refuses to turn. There is a third nut inside the bottom of the bracket which is impossible to get at.:banghead:

There must be something simple I'm missing. Maybe it is I who have become simple!

Floyd

rearbrake.jpg
 
The bottom nut is the adjustment it will move the bracket, then just tighten the top nut on to the bracket

If your using proper foot placement there is no way your toe could reach the brake lever. Ball of foot should be on peg.
 
The bottom nut is the adjustment it will move the bracket, then just tighten the top nut on to the bracket

If your using proper foot placement there is no way your toe could reach the brake lever. Ball of foot should be on peg.

Your saying this is the nut that needs to turn? How do I get at it? I can't get a wrench in there.

brake2.jpg
 
If I can remember well the right way is to turn the hole screw by the upper nut as you tried to.The bolt sould be turnin freely just after you loose the center nut.Do I see some red Loctite in the threads ? Do screw reached the bottom of the foot pedal???
 
FloydV said:
Your saying this is the nut that needs to turn? How do I get at it? I can't get a wrench in there.

Pull the cotter pin from the pin that attaches the brake lever to the master cylinder. Remove the connection pin, turn lower nut to desired height. Reassemble in reverse of how you took it apart.
 
If I can remember well the right way is to turn the hole screw by the upper nut as you tried to.The bolt sould be turnin freely just after you loose the center nut.Do I see some red Loctite in the threads ? Do screw reached the bottom of the foot pedal???

I was pondering that when someone said I should turn that nut. It seems I would turn the bolt counter clockwise to lengthen the foot pedal travel? No, no locktite. I never use red anyway. That is for stuff like screws in pistols.
The reason I am doing this is to keep me from over using the rear brake. When I find myself trying to stop very quickly, I have noticed that the rear tire will lock, and the rear end scoots a bit. That tells me that I am (from car braking) jamming on the rear brake along with the front brakes.

There is a very good book that covers this subject. They say if making a rider extend hard to press the rear brakes isn't enough, then drill bigger holes in the rear disc.

But, thank you. I will use the nut at the top to turn the bolt, and the nut to lock it.

Floyd
 
No No No! Do not turn the nut at the top! Leave that puppy alone!

Remove the pin at the bottom going through the clevis. The turn the clevis which incases the nut. When you get the pedal height where you want it turn the locking nut down onto the clevis and snug it up.

The best thing you can do is learn proper foot position and you will have no problem with dragging the rear brake.
 
I think you have your answer sir :thumbsup:


Just in case, pull the pin and adjust the lower nut by turning the clevis then tighten the nut you moved to lock it down, reassemble :laugh:
 
Responding to TufBusa: I can feel whatever is on the other side of the clevis to remove it and get it to turn. I can't see it though, and knowing how much easier to get something apart than it is to put back, what am I feeling on the back side?
The service manual is useless about this. All it shows is the pic I originally posted with no commentary on adjustment at all.

Is it a pin with a cotter clip. It's almost impossible to tell by feel. Why does all this simple stuff have to be so hard.

Floyd
 
I dont even know why you removed the clevis pin...

Hold the top bolt
Break the lock nut
Turn the threaded shaft with your fingers to the desired pedal height
Tighten lock nut.
Check Brake light switch now..

Really its a simple adjustment your just making it difficult.
 
No No No! Do not turn the nut at the top! Leave that puppy alone!

Remove the pin at the bottom going through the clevis. The turn the clevis which incases the nut. When you get the pedal height where you want it turn the locking nut down onto the clevis and snug it up.

The best thing you can do is learn proper foot position and you will have no problem with dragging the rear brake.


Well some think Tuf knows it all and his way and words are the only way.

He took you off road on this one and has turned a simple job into a challenging one..

The Suzuki Manual states as I said YES TURN the shaft. No need in removing the clevis pin..
Also make sure you check your brake light switch as I stated..

Also I would suggest using a small amount of lubricant such as WD-40 around the rubber grommet to the bolt spins freely as your making your adjustment. Make sure when turning the adjuster it does not twist and tear the rubber grommet.

Brake Pedal.jpg
 
I dont even know why you removed the clevis pin...

Hold the top bolt
Break the lock nut
Turn the threaded shaft with your fingers to the desired pedal height
Tighten lock nut.
Check Brake light switch now..

Really its a simple adjustment your just making it difficult.

I haven't removed it. Just been getting a lot of different answers about the adjustment. Thanks.
 
Well some think Tuf knows it all and his way and words are the only way.

He took you off road on this one and has turned a simple job into a challenging one..

The Suzuki Manual states as I said YES TURN the shaft. No need in removing the clevis pin..
Also make sure you check your brake light switch as I stated..

Also I would suggest using a small amount of lubricant such as WD-40 around the rubber grommet to the bolt spins freely as your making your adjustment. Make sure when turning the adjuster it does not twist and tear the rubber grommet.

You know what we call guys like you at the track? "Noodle"!

Just so YOU know, the reason you don't give guys instructions by the book on this particular application is because after the first year of ownership, you can't turn that shaft with your fingers and most resort to a pair of pliers ending up with buggered up threads then nothing works. Thus, simply pull the pin from the clevis and adjust the fooker and replace the pin. So simple even a "Noodle" can do it!

So you tell um YankeeNoodle!
 
You know what we call guys like you at the track? "Noodle"!

Just so YOU know, the reason you don't give guys instructions by the book on this particular application is because after the first year of ownership, you can't turn that shaft with your fingers and most resort to a pair of pliers ending up with buggered up threads then nothing works. Thus, simply pull the pin from the clevis and adjust the fooker and replace the pin. So simple even a "Noodle" can do it!

So you tell um YankeeNoodle!

Ohhhh Poochie Poodle..
Ya know I have always made this adjustement on bikes and never had an issue. (also stated to spray a little WD-40 on the rubber grommet which would then drip down on the threaded adjuster)
Ya see the little symbol in the black box? Thats a wrench (in a slow voice) Da wrench goes on the top part which looks like a sqaure.. Kinda like the round one goes in the round hole? No one ever said to use pliers on the threads. Hopefully we dont have to add that.
Your not only the bestest of all the best riders but now your smarter and advise better ways then the engineers at Suzuki. Can I get a paw print autograph??:please:
Ta Doodle Do From The Doodle Noodle.:beerchug:
 
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