Talk me down from the ledge...

Oh yeah, note to self, change oil filter and add new oil before trying the heat cycling method. :laugh:
:laugh: if you have a propane torch you can just pump some heat into the boss where the bolt goes in.. you gotta work quick however after you take the heat off..
(oxy acetylene works better but really not a time to be learning how to do this) :)
 
:laugh: if you have a propane torch you can just pump some heat into the boss where the bolt goes in.. you gotta work quick however after you take the heat off..
(oxy acetylene works better but really not a time to be learning how to do this) :)

I do have a propane torch. I'll keep that in mind.

In a previous life I was quite experienced with operating oxy-acetelyne torches and mig welders. Don't have these around the house though.
 
I am sure that any extractor tool is a useless endeavor (clearance issues) if these are hex head bolts, you can probably find a "snap on" truck and by a regular 6 point flank drive wrench.. .they work like magic on this stuff... I just assumed they were the same as the Gen1 and used an allen wrench

+1, good quality tools make all the difference. I'm not knocking the op's tools, but there is a reason they got stripped. good luck getting those out.
 
Lets see if it'll work

191.jpg
 
Like others said, you could cut the pipe to gain full access, and if you want another stock header pipe to just have for keep safe, I've got 2 or 3 in the shop with less than a couple of hundred mile you can have. just pay shipping. again, good luck.
 
+1, good quality tools make all the difference. I'm not knocking the op's tools, but there is a reason they got stripped. good luck getting those out.

There's a reason alright....the op used poor judgement based on a faulty expectation that the bolt head would be stronger than it was. :laugh:

Sorry, crappy camera, bad quality

I have a pretty good idea what you're talking about. I'll visit Sears again tomorrow...hopefully they'll have something in stock that when used in combination with some localized heat application will do the trick.

Like others said, you could cut the pipe to gain full access, and if you want another stock header pipe to just have for keep safe, I've got 2 or 3 in the shop with less than a couple of hundred mile you can have. just pay shipping. again, good luck.

Thanks for the offer. If this set ends up in pieces I won't lose any sleep over it. I don't know the exhaust port geometry though, and I'd hate to end up with metal shavings down in the cylinders if I do have to cut the headers off.
 
Step away from the sawzall :rulez: :laugh: Some peeps might need that stock header. Things sure are tight up there in headerville. Good Luck

Oh and if there is any way to get on them (or in them) bolts with IMPACT (air or even hammer operated) that usually wins the war.

and one more thing: :worthless:
 
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ball end allen sockets rock but I think my metric set was around $200, they get around this issue pretty darn well... SnapOn might be pricey but they have some tools that just plain work...

+1000 to that!

IMG00561.jpg
 
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And I'll second what Bogus was saying about the easy outs not working most of the time. The first type that sixpack has shown lots of times just eats away at whatever you're trying to take out, like a drill bit. This type of extractor works MUCH better. If you have room to get em in there, that is.

IMG00563.jpg
 
Definetly hit Sears up. I think it would be the wrong route if you cut the stock header off. You may never know when you will need the stock system again.
 
:cheerleader: :cheerleader: :cheerleader:

Okay, to update everyone who was kind enough to offer suggestions, and to close this thread with the solution that worked so others may benefit....

I went to Sears again this afternoon. I found a set of extractors similar to what twotonevert recommended, but they had a little longer cutting tooth area than the ones he originally linked me to. I also found a set of extractors like sixpack577 suggested in post #50. I also bought a set of ball head metric allen head sockets...didn't think they'd be able to remove the bolts, but I thought it'd be worthwhile to have them for reinstallation and future ill advised mechanical challenges I might undertake.

I was unsuccessful finding the tool gmmech07 recommended.

Started with the least damaging...ball head allen sockets. As I suspected, the bolts were already too far gone for these, but it didn't hurt to try them first.

Second attempt with the extractors that fit over the bolt head. I was pretty skeptical these would work since the bolts are round to start with on the exterior. As I suspected I was unsuccessful on this attempt.

Third attempt with the screw extractor and a drill. I think these might work on bolts that are a higher grade, but the stock bolts are, as I wrote before, almost as soft as butter, so within about a half a second I had completely drilled any semblance of an allen head out of the bolt...without any progress.

I went and got the Sawzall, installed a new blade with much pomp and circumstance, where my bike could see what was in its immediate future if it didn't choose to cooperate.

Not so subtle threat completed, I went back to the extractor tool similar to what twotonevert recommended. I inserted a 3" extension, got a hammer, and beat the extractor onto one of the two bolts. Then I attached the ratchet and very carefully started applying force. Finally all the stars aligned as the hardened teeth of the extractor bit into the butter-like metal of the bolt, causing it to turn...almost imperceptably at first. A half turn was about all it took before I was able to unscrew the offending metallurgical wonder by hand. Repeat for problem bolt number two...again met with success.

Interestingly enough, both of these bolts are bent significantly.

:cheerleader: :cheerleader:

I suspect the display of the Sawzall played a role in my success, but I can't prove it. :laugh:

Some pics of the problem children after extraction...ignore the sensor spots:

This one shows the damage the extractor did inside the "butterbolt", much as gmmech07 predicted. Again, I think the extractor would work better on higher grade bolts.

4257137095_0c2a84d526_o.jpg


4257137271_07d51c2c59_o.jpg


And to illustrate how bent the bolts are now:

4257137423_5060bf9f70.jpg


Thanks again all for the suggestions. :beerchug:
 
Wow, glad you got em out. How in the world did they get bent like that to start with. Sucess! :cheerleader:
 
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