Sliders, pegs, stickers

[ThunderJohn]

I want to put frame sliders on my scoot I am looking at the ones where you will be cutting my fairing. I am also really scared about doing that

and would take any advice on that or just a good shop to go and get it done at.

My next is a good peg Mod for big feet I have a size 16 and those pegs are a little too small. I want one that will just bolt on no drilling just a regular bolt on.

Tank stickers advice. I was not going to put any on there but i can see where my tank it getting rubbed on when I lay on it so before it gets to scratching I want to save it.

Any thing else you can think of that will help me off the bat let me know. Small mods at first my wife is still getting over writing the check for the new scoot.

 

[darth frosty]

I did mine over the winter its not as bad as you may fear. try these.

 

[DaCol.]

(Big_guy @ Jun. 28 2007,15:24) I want to put frame sliders on my scoot I am looking at the ones where you will be cutting my fairing. I am also really scared about doing that  

and would take any advice on that or just a good shop to go and get it done at.

My next is a good peg Mod for big feet I have a size 16 and those pegs are a little too small. I want one that will just bolt on no drilling just a regular bolt on.

Tank stickers advice. I was not going to put any on there but i can see where my tank it getting rubbed on when I lay on it so before it gets to scratching I want to save it.

Any thing else you can think of that will help me off the bat let me know. Small mods at first my wife is still getting over writing the check for the new scoot.  

Only help I can give is on the Pegs, for your size  

16 feet. Suggest you PM the Professor about his drag racing pegs. The Drag racers use humongus pegs  

 

[8Daytona8]

Hey get the sliders on! I hope you will never hear yourself say man am i glad i have em BUT

After puting a few on this is the easiest way I have found. getting the OEM allen head out is a bigger job! get a good one with a 1/2" breaker bar. Bolt head is a cinch after. All i do is start with a 1/4" hole in the area, then with like a router bit fit to your liking. Plastic can stay rite there and a done deal in 30 mins. I made up a how to a while back.



Items you will need to make this easy with no scratches etc. Black Magic marker, Masking tape, elect tape, 1/4" drill bit in good condition, and a drill to drive it, flash light, 5/16 Allen wrench bit, 5/16 6 point socket to hold the 5/16 Allen bit 3/8 or 1/2" drive, a breaker bar or stout ratchet to break the torque (40 ft lbs) of the OEM eng mounts. Top Fwd L&R side. Place the template R- side first, insert the tiny Allen wrench U should have in your tool kit thru hole in sheet into the fairing screw, align the top of paper with edge of your fairing, The paper should look vertical and fit the contour of the fairing edge. The spot on the paper bellow the inserted bit is the spot you violate. (drill) about 3/8" from the end of the drill bit wrap about 5 layers of elect tape, this is so you won't go too far thru the plastic and damage anything that may be in the way like a hose or wiring etc. There shouldn't be anything there but unless you can see in there this is to just make sure? After you get up enough gumption to dive in! (no drinkin) and drill the hole! clear the foam padding out of the way what you see is the head of the Top R-FWD engine mount Allen head bolt. Remove the template. ((( Mask the area with tape! as big a area as you feel safe with.))) This is where we want to make a hole big enough to insert the 5/16"Allen wrench and socket into. (Don't remove the bolt) its pretty tight anyway. The idea is, using the slider as a guide on the Allen bit and socket. Use the elect tape to wrap around the socket to center fit the slider now you can make a black marker circle on the masking tape on your fairing and its got to be on center! This will be the same process for the L-side. Now you have the center, start point and there are many ways to get the hole to where it needs to be. Some will make it 2" with a hole saw? I like to just use the drill bit to router out till its fitting the slider the way i want it! tighter. Remember R-side fairing will have to be removed or slid out to change the oil filter! So if you don't want to remove the mount bolt every time leave enough space around this one. The removing and installing of the slider from this point of having the hole there where it needs to be is a matter of having the rite tools. A good breaker bar to remove the OEM bolt and a torque wrench to install the slider and bolt! If you can do this which is rudimentary! Your home free! Otherwise the torque is 40 ft lbs dry, a little less if you oil the threads. The Pro-tek instructions say you have to loosen the pinch bolt on the R-side but I don't know why? If you do then this hole has to be at least 2" cause the fairing will have to be slid out in order to re torque the chinsey Allen head bolt. A copy of their instructions are with the pack on the back. or go to their site http://www.protekk.com They want to remove the fairing and mark it by using the slider bolt! That job suck and there is a good chance the fairing will be damaged every time they are removed. Another thing you will notice that I didn't like is the slider will stick out farther on the R than L. A few washers behind the Left side B4 the slider will even them out. The 10mm dia / 17mm hex head bolt is long enough, just make sure the washers fits in the mount recess with out jamming. Regular flat washers are to big. metric is needed. If you got the hole where it needs to be which is the most costly part of having this done! a bud with the rite tools or a trip to the shop is a cake walk and shouldn't cost but a few bucks. If you can do the torque stuff you are already done and sayin this fool and his instructions don't know who he's dealin with.

 

[8Daytona8]

 

[GSXcite]

For pegs I would recommend that you try the TL1000 pegs. Contact VMAN1300 and he can set you up. Quick 5 min. install and BIG improvement.

 

[BlueHaya]

Get a tankslapper for the tank. They are clear and when applied correctly..you cannot see them from 5 feet away.

I have a set on in this pic. It includes the sides of the tank (knee area) and the back of the tank (stomach area).

If I remember right it is around $20-$30

 

[dadofthree]

Tank bras are nice too

 

[DaCol.]

(GSXcite @ Jun. 29 2007,15:18) For pegs I would recommend that you try the TL1000 pegs. Contact VMAN1300 and he can set you up. Quick 5 min. install and BIG improvement.

I have the TL1000 pegs and they are GREAT  

. BUT, I have a 10 size foot, NOT a 16. If the stock pegs are small for you, the TL or any Stock peg I know of will be small also