Dry Shot on the '08 (pertaining to '08/09's only please, less confusion)

[Draco1340]

Originally Posted by boom

draco1340,
hey,i saw your post on a 30 shot and are very interested.i have 08 busa,power commander usb,full r77 yosh pipe and a tre mod.i was wondering if you could give some anvise on custom map for n2o dry.any help you give would be greatly appreciated.
boom.

Boom,
If you have a way to switch between maps, I can send you a N2O map for a power commander. PM me.

[busababy007]

on my 08 busa i went with a 20 shot for the long haul because didn't have the money for the head work that is needed for a higher shot be careful what u play with when u dealing with titanium a 600 dollar system may cost 2000 dollars in work and parts.

[Draco1340]

For what its worth, I have about 250 passes on my stock motor 08, with between a 30 and a 50 dry shot. Leakdown test last week showed perfect numbers. With a 12.2 : 1 tune, I think these motors should take it OK.

[GPW]

Originally Posted by Draco1340

For what its worth, I have about 250 passes on my stock motor 08, with between a 30 and a 50 dry shot. Leakdown test last week showed perfect numbers. With a 12.2 : 1 tune, I think these motors should take it OK.

12.2:1 on spray is perfect!

[BusaWizard]

Good to know, I'm thinking about spraying next season. I wish some of you guys were closer, I would love to have you help me with my set up.

[Draco1340]

One great thing about a well setup N2O system is the consistency of the ET.

A normally aspirated motor tunes by adjusting fuel based on the air thats available that given day. If the Density altitude rises, the bike slows down. Nothing you can do, but pull fuel out to match the air on a given day.

On a spray motor, you have the option of leaving the fuel alone, and adjusting the nitrous to compensate for the lack or abundance in air. I have an adjustable regulator, and can move the pressure up or down by a bit to compensate for more or less air. Just keep the motor at 12.1:1 and keep the fuel the same, and the bike always runs the same.

[GPW]

Originally Posted by BusaWizard

Good to know, I'm thinking about spraying next season. I wish some of you guys were closer, I would love to have you help me with my set up.

Come on up and spend a weekend at HPC... bring a cot..

[GPW]

Sample of a HPC NOS tune on a 210 HP motor with a 30 shot of NOS. Progressively gets fatter up top to compensate for additional RAM air at speed... NOS activated at 7K progressively. 5th. gear pull...

[YSI408]

That graph looks perfect, nice job greg..

Originally Posted by GPW

Sample of a HPC NOS tune on a 210 HP motor with a 30 shot of NOS. Progressively gets fatter up top to compensate for additional RAM air at speed... NOS activated at 7K progressively. 5th. gear pull...

[B@DA$$08BUS@]

Originally Posted by Dr151

I'm currently working on installing an MPS dry shot on my '08. I'm looking for some help/suggestions on how to do it right. I do have some experiance with this, I installed a NX wet shot on my '00 750. I have been on other threads looking for answers, but I still have a few questions.

1. Plugs - Iridium or standard (also gapping)?
2. Different fuel when
   spraying?
3. Timing retard? yes, no or how much?
4. Mounting / Plumbing - I would like to see some pics of what other people have done.
5. MPS kit came with
   an engine kill, how do I tie this into my engine kill that is connected to my electric shifter?

Here are the performance goodies that are already installed:

• Alien Head Full Exhaust
• PC3 w/ Brock street map
• Brock clutch mod
• Pingel electric shift w/ engine kill
• Stretched & lowered

If I need to clarify anything, please ask. Also, I want to keep this very steetable. Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.

I talked extensively with MPS and Ryan @ schnitz racing, they both were in agreement that 50 was the ABSOLUTE most one could run on stock motor. And both recommended a pogressive controller.
Posted via Mobile Device

[ogre]

i thought the progressive activation was more to keep the front end down than anything. that and trying not to break parts.

[B@DA$$08BUS@]

Originally Posted by ogre

i thought the progressive activation was more to keep the front end down than anything. that and trying not to break parts.

Actually what I gathered from ryan was a combination of both. If you progressively feed the motor the nitrous it is much easier on it than just hitting it with full shot all at once. Also as you said to help keep the front end down.

[GPW]

Originally Posted by YSI408

That graph looks perfect, nice job greg..

Thanks Sir, still learning but having fun in the process.

[Spkrdctr]

Originally Posted by Dr151;2068921 I don't want to destroy the motor and with the economy (work) not being the greatest, [B

I can't spend to much more on this project (the BOSS, she will not like). [/b]

The problem here is that setting up a motor with either a turbo or nitrous means you very well may have to put a bunch of money into repairs. If you really are serious about not having money to rebuild the motor, I would not do anything to it. It is no fun having a bike that will not run because the motor needs new valves/pistons/ etc. Your talking real money here. Just my advice from my prior racing experiences on a limited budget. Get ready to deal with the wife, what can go wrong will go wrong...... Good Luck!

[Draco1340]

Originally Posted by Spkrdctr

The problem here is that setting up a motor with either a turbo or nitrous means you very well may have to put a bunch of money into repairs. If you really are serious about not having money to rebuild the motor, I would not do anything to it. It is no fun having a bike that will not run because the motor needs new valves/pistons/ etc. Your talking real money here. Just my advice from my prior racing experiences on a limited budget. Get ready to deal with the wife, what can go wrong will go wrong...... Good Luck!

I thought this was a nitrous thread?
If you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it.
If you have to ask if shes on the pill, you shouldn't do it.
And if you have to worry about the maintanence on a nitrous Busa, then by all means don't spray it.

Or just ignore the advice and go out there and spray till the bottle freezes up and the rods come out the side!

In all seriousness, if the tune is right, the motor will handle up to a 50 shot no problem.

[tegbusa]

So as long as i'm in the 30 range i should be safe

[Dr151]

I'm still looking at doing this. I do appreciate the valid concerns. Thank guys. I am planning to use the progressive controller and to have it tuned properly. Hopefully all goes well.

[Draco1340]

This winter I'm beefing everything up for a progressive 100 dry shot. SHould make things interesting. Head, block and pistons comes off in 3 weeks.

[GPW]

Originally Posted by Draco1340

This winter I'm beefing everything up for a progressive 100 dry shot. SHould make things interesting. Head, block and pistons comes off in 3 weeks.

Ran a progressive dry shot for two years...310 Hp or so and 170 foot pounds of torque. You will love it.

[Dr151]

Draco, if you don't mind, what are you expecting to spend for the motor work?