Got Bazzaz!

ToXSicK RoCKeT

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Sup Fellaz, im a VERY happy man today, my bazzaz fi box arrived :cheerleader:. First off i have to mention this, despite mine and Kingofthecoast's differences(and theres been a few:laugh:)....KOTC went out of his way to take care of me when he could have just blew me off. He beat the best price i found on the bazzaz and then some, fast shipping, and he even sent me some of his maps! AWESOME GUY to do busniess with and i HIGHLY recommend to anyone looking into a bazzaz, call this guy FIRST....so here's to you kotc :beerchug: :bowdown: THANK YOU SIR!:cheerleader:
Now onto some more questions :(
now that im getting a little more fimilar with this system, im kinda kicking myself in the :moon: for not buying the AFR box with it(for self mapping):banghead: So im thinking i will end up buying it, but can someone help me understand how or is it possible to "self map" for nitrous @ the track/street(meaning without a dyno)with this AFR box? Very confused to how this would work. Thanks in advance.:beerchug:
 
I'm no expert with that stuff, Phil, so have nothing to offer you (technically).

I'm really glad to see you posting and having positive experiences to report!

:beerchug:

Looking very much forward to seeing you in Reno, bro!!!
 
Real time mapping is best done with a datalogger. The datalogger does more than just help you tune A/F for nitrous. You can look at clutch feed, exhaust temp, nitrous activation and pulse width, nitrous pressure, throttle position, wheel slip, RPM, gear, launch rpm, battery voltage, oil temp and pressure, and whatever else you can dream up. After every pass, I look at every log and see were I screwed up, and where I can make up more speed. I'm a big fan of the innovate box, and would be glad to walk you through some of the set up issues. The older version LM1 can still be had on ebay for short coin. The newer one has some nice features and more memory, but is more expensive. I don't recomend against autotuning. I just think its best to do your own tuning. The price of the box is usually the same as one good dyno session, but you never need a dyno again.
 
the big perks to the innovate stuff is that they are one of the most accurate out there. I've still got an LC-1 controller laying around.

The auto tune from Bazzaz is a bit misleading because it does not autmativaly tune anything. You enter a target A/F ratio and then as you ride it'll figure out how far off you are from the "target". This only happens after whatever logging period. Example: target set at X your actual recorded A/F reading is Y. It'll tell you you're off by y-X. Then you have to change your fuel setting to try and get that much closer.

Loggers are on a whole different level.

FYI... come May I'll have a bunch of semi used "stuff" available which will include a Zafm among other things.
 
Good info guys :beerchug: thanks!
Draco.....this data logger you speak of, can you post a link or give me the address? How do they hook-up on the bike, is it similar to the bazzaz and pc's? thanks again fella's.
Commuta, let me know what you want for your Zafm when your ready?
 
I'm no expert with that stuff, Phil, so have nothing to offer you (technically).

I'm really glad to see you posting and having positive experiences to report!

:beerchug:

Looking very much forward to seeing you in Reno, bro!!!

Thanks Scar :beerchug: cant wait for the Reno trip :cheerleader:
 
the big perks to the innovate stuff is that they are one of the most accurate out there. I've still got an LC-1 controller laying around.

The auto tune from Bazzaz is a bit misleading because it does not autmativaly tune anything. You enter a target A/F ratio and then as you ride it'll figure out how far off you are from the "target". This only happens after whatever logging period. Example: target set at X your actual recorded A/F reading is Y. It'll tell you you're off by y-X. Then you have to change your fuel setting to try and get that much closer.

Loggers are on a whole different level.

FYI... come May I'll have a bunch of semi used "stuff" available which will include a Zafm among other things.

yep I was shocked after everyone said self mapping'(nice sells ploy)
 
yep I was shocked after everyone said self mapping'(nice sells ploy)

I guess im confused! I have some people saying they HIGHLY recommend the Zafm(BROCK)and others now saying it doesnt do what it's suppose to do ??? :banghead:
I understand that it does not adjust mapping like a "TRUE" closed loop system would(which the 08 busa is "NOT"), and that you set a "target" AFR run the bike, then it gives you the "recommend" fuel table changes. From here its up to me to accept/add changes.
I guess where im getting confused is this, where do i start to make a N2O map with this Zafm box? Do i just load any map(lets say i use the one brock sent me "motor map"), set my target for 12.8 and spray the hell out of it for a 1/4 mile(hope like hell my engine stays together :bomb: )then plug the laptop back in and see what changes i need to make? This does NOT make any sense to me :banghead: Not only does this seem dangerous for n2o tuning, but even N/A engine can hurt something if you start too far out of wack(GO LEAN for too long)!
Am i missing something here guyz, please help me to understand? :please:
 
I would still recommend it. I just wanted to make sure it was clear how to tune with it. To start mapping I would start on the over rich side to be safe. Then spray (using a full bottle) and see what the box recommends. then take a little fuel out use another fresh bottle or one that wont loose much pressure and try it again. It's important to use a full bottle so that you don't end up mapping it to lean.
 
Universal Digital Tuning Products and Tuning Tools from Innovate Motorsports

You need a datalogger. The older style LM-1 has been replaced by the new DL-32. The LM-1 can be found for a steal. Both are usually sold with an O2 sensor. If you bought a Brock header, it already has the bung for the sensor.

You also need an Auxillary box that gets your RPM, throttle position, and anything else you are interested in hooking up. The old style was (I think) the 3726. The newer style (more expensive) is the 3742.

Wiring is easy. Really.
 
Thanks for the pat on the back Phil. Just because we disagree doesn't mean I'm not here to help. I don't hold grudges and Its never personal with me. I don't judge people by what they type on the internet. I'm just glad I could help. Now I still got this ass whoopin for you though when I do get on your end.:poke::rofl:

Have fun bro and call if you need anything else in getting it setup.:thumbsup:
 
I would still recommend it. I just wanted to make sure it was clear how to tune with it. To start mapping I would start on the over rich side to be safe. Then spray (using a full bottle) and see what the box recommends. then take a little fuel out use another fresh bottle or one that wont loose much pressure and try it again. It's important to use a full bottle so that you don't end up mapping it to lean.

So like if i took my motor map, what would you say a SAFE starting % would be for 100% TPS column from 7000rpm's up?
 
Universal Digital Tuning Products and Tuning Tools from Innovate Motorsports

You need a datalogger. The older style LM-1 has been replaced by the new DL-32. The LM-1 can be found for a steal. Both are usually sold with an O2 sensor. If you bought a Brock header, it already has the bung for the sensor.

You also need an Auxillary box that gets your RPM, throttle position, and anything else you are interested in hooking up. The old style was (I think) the 3726. The newer style (more expensive) is the 3742.

Wiring is easy. Really.

Thanks bro, i will start checking into this also :beerchug:
BTW, what do you mean by Auxilary box?
 
how much are you spraying? it's with a spray bar right?

I wouldn't just add the fuel in the 100%TPS but also in the next lower as well. I would also richen it 500 rpm prioir to the point you plan on spraying. What's bad with the Bazzaz is you can't take out any timming if you have a big shot.

i would also suggest talking to the man who makes the spray bar. Ask about the recommended settings since it's his spray bar and he has plenty of experience with them. Who knows his bar better than him self.

So like if i took my motor map, what would you say a SAFE starting % would be for 100% TPS column from 7000rpm's up?
 
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Thanks for the pat on the back Phil. Just because we disagree doesn't mean I'm not here to help. I don't hold grudges and Its never personal with me. I don't judge people by what they type on the internet. I'm just glad I could help. Now I still got this ass whoopin for you though when I do get on your end.:poke::rofl:

Have fun bro and call if you need anything else in getting it setup.:thumbsup:

Thanks bro :beerchug: Oh and as far as that azz woopin goes......you better go trade in that huffy you call a race bike :laugh:
 
how much are you spraying? it's with a spray bar right?

I wouldn't just add the fuel in the 100%TPS but also in the next lower as well. I would also richen it 500 rpm prioir to the point you plan on spraying. What's bad with the Bazzaz is you can't take out any timming if you have a big shot.

i would also suggest talking to the man who makes the spray bar. Ask about the recommended settings since it's his spray bar and he has plenty of experience with them. Who knows his bar better than him self.

I only plan on a 40-50hp shot, and yes it is a spraybar. I will hit Gixx up and see what he thinks also, thank you for your input, its much appreciated :beerchug:
 
as a guess I would say toss in 20% or more to start. I'm not sure how that percentage works out with the prim and sec injectors. I recall somewhere that you have to put in an even higher value to get the same kind of percent. Don't quote me on it though. i haven't tunned a Gen II live so I can't speak from any experience.
 
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