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REBOUND: 3 Clicks Out COMPRESSION: 4 Clicks Out and this is with your spring preload adjusters set at just 1 line showing...ie..socked all the way down too *the first line. My Rear Shock Settings Are... Rebound (botton screw): 10 Clicks Out Compression (top screw): 7 Clicks Out And that's with two full revs more rear shock spring preload from stock factory adjustment. L8R, Bill. <!--EDIT|JINKSTER Reason for Edit: None given...|1115363545 --> ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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Thanks JINKSTER I got the whole thing printed out, and will definitely be working on it before my next track day. Awesome job with the pics and explanations. Two questions: 1. Do you have a pic of the rear shock compression and rebound dampening screws with which one is which? I just haven't looked in the service manual for it yet, but I will. Just wasn't sure if it was in there. 2. I'm 5'7" and weigh about 175. Do you think the stock fork springs would be sufficient to start with? Thanks again EDIT: I really like your jackstand and steel rod idea. Quite ingenious. <!--EDIT|stkr00 Reason for Edit: None given...|1115379431 --> ______________________________________ 1998 GSXR-600 Track Only ---> *Video: stkr @ the track HELP support my Track Habit (Pay-Pal): stkr.racing@yahoo.com |
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Stretch It, Slam It, Back out the fork spring preload adjusters, open up the compression damping, Strap Down The Front Forks and viola...tune for taste with an emphasis on reducing the bikes tendency to hoist the front wheel but still leave enough rear weight to hook up the rear for killer launchability and greatly reduced 60' times. LOL!!! It's a tale of two cities as on one hand road racers need to try an figure out how to get supportive yet compliant suspension while drag racers just hafta figure out how to get rid of it!!! LOL!!!...some think struts and straps...but not quite so simple as dragers actually hafta tune their suspension to both the individual riders developed launching technic annnnd...the fearsome effects of rapidly induced torque sent through the Heavy Duty Clutch assys from monster built motors...which becomes an extremely individualistic bike-to-bike, rider-to-rider issue...in other words...what works great for one drag racer may not work so well for the other pending launch technic, throttle/clutch modulation and rider body positioning...but all that is JMHO. L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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you forgot about the rear rebound.... oh, and the big long explanation about how you actually did it on the track in different conditions. oh, I forgot.... dragracing streebikes is easy. but thats another story. |
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______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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Thanks for the detailed write up! Just finishing up my busa with new springs and valves up front..... doing a complete rebuild on the rear! Glad to see this posted. Couldn't agree more this is a must do mod. Bike will handle like day/night. Oh, forgot to mention raised the rear of my bike an inch with some custom dogbones. What a diff this made. Really slices through the corners now and what a wheelie machine.......... ______________________________________
2000 Hayabusa, Blue 1397cc (A.P.E.) 13:1; HMF BigBird exhaust Brock Cams Stg II/PCIIIUSB; RPM Fuel system/JohnnyCheese Tuned/Tested! Race Tech Suspension/Carrozzerria Wheels; Passport/Bel/Blinder Lasar jammer 2006 FLSTC-I Heritage Softail 2008 FLHTCUI Ultra Classic 2008 Hayabusa, Blue Yosh TRC full system, Bagster, Passport 8500 w/screamer, & LI Jammer Buell pegs, Pazzo levers, Zumo GPS, Ventura bags |
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wow! Thats detailed.... definetly entitles for sticky ______________________________________
"Fear is the path to the Dark side, fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering." - MASTER YODA
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Hey can i just bring you my bike and you set mine up for me ______________________________________
Say hello to my lil Friend
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Not really...as road racing settings and drag settings are two different worlds but maybe I could share some thoughts/knowledge here to maybe help you (and others here) to better understand the physics behind optimizing your suspension. First one must understand that springs are springs and damping is damping...as follows... Springs: only serve to support the bike and riders "sprung weight" but must be of the proper compression rate to "Optimize and Maximize The Suspensions Effective Working Travel". Damping: yeilds a fluid feel to what is a mechanically spung suspension but it's primary purpose and use is to "Control Wheel/Spring Velocity" on a vertical plane in both directions of compression and rebound. Drag racers need to find a happy medium balancing the scales between reducing both rear wheel spin AND keeping the front end down..and it dosen't help when a good tight hard launch dictates that the rider at the line applies front brakes to "load the clutch" which serves to slightly lift the rear while compressing the front...then as the yellow light flickers to green all that energy is suddenly released and reversed as the slightly raised rear trys to squat (from loaded and raised) and the preloaded front releases and rises...and DAMPING under these conditions can best be exploited by max damping up front (thereby decreasing rebound velocity and slowing down the rise of the front) and maximizing compression values in the rear to help slow down the squatting reaction..greatly reducing the transfer of weight from front to rear and lessening the bikes propensity to hoist the front wheel....a balancing act. To help avoid wheel spin and breakking loose at launch some drag racers (pending technic) will actually be better served with a slightly softer rear suspension as this will help dampen "The Torque Hit" to the rear wheel and help the rear retain it's traction values...acting sort of like a buffer for the clutch impaired if you will. LOL!!! But like I said...all bets are off when draggers start making drastic changes to the bikes suspension geometry with dogbones, straps and lengthened swingarms..and the best you can do there is tune for a happy medium between reducing wheelyability yet retaining maximum rear wheel traction levels. Road Racing and Drag Racing...two very different suspension worlds and two extremely large cans of worms. Hope that helps and L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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well i do a bit of both i lower it for the track and raise it for the twisties. There is no meadian where i can just raise and lower and not have to readjust everything over and over again?
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Say hello to my lil Friend
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L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_...ttings/#suzuki ______________________________________ |
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1. These are pro track jockeys just trying to suggest the best settings with the stock hardware...tuned by personal feel, taste and preference and NOT by the book or by the numbers...and... 2. I copied the following from the "Suspension Tuning Guide" link... "This guide will help you gain a better grasp of your sportbike's suspension and how to dial it in to get the most out of your motorcycle. After all, having horsepower is one thing, but if you can't get it to the ground, you'd just as soon be better off on a 50cc moped. Read, learn and enjoy. --Kent Kunitsugu Chain..have you ever seen "Kent Kunitsugu"? Well..really neither have I...at least not in person but in photo's he appears to be like 130lbs soaking wet...and a pro racer....trust me...our suspension requirements will vary. Just his "Spring Preload" numbers tell the story...he's running 4 lines showing in the front and 15mm of thread showing on the top of the rear shock...my 240lb #'s?....I have my front fork preload socked down to 1 line showing and 20mm's of thread showing on the rear shock...as my 240lb @$$ needs way more spring than does Kent...and this is a prime example why I went to all the trouble of sharing here how to propery set sag dimensions as rider weights do vary so much...and if your 200+ or anywhere's near it?...you'll hate what kent loved and if you use Kents numbers your busa will seem extremely vague, wallowy, and unplanted.....tune your suspension TOO YOU...by the book...by the numbers..you'll be much happier, safer, more confident annnnd....faster. L8R, Bill. ______________________________________ "I'm Imprisoned By My Addiction To Speed...But I do Recieve Kanjical Visits On A Daily Basis." |
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/89876-jinkster-attacks-suspension.html | ||||
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| Australian Hayabusa Club Forum - Adjustments suspension | This thread | Refback | 11-04-2008 07:31 PM | |
| Adjustments suspension | This thread | Refback | 10-02-2008 05:43 AM | |
| Adjustments suspension | This thread | Refback | 10-01-2008 01:20 PM | |