Jinkster's "how to synch your busa"

[Burger King]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] (loboboy @ Mar. 01 2006,21:59)]I have a question, how did you get your bike to start without the IAP air press sensor hooked up? I can never get mine to start without it hooked up.

I'm not sure which one of the two sensors that is, but I had to unhook both of mine to get the bike to keep running. When I had the sensor on the back hooked up, and the lines to the carbs unhooked (so that I could hook up the carb stix) the bike flooded like crazy. When I unhooked the plug from the sensor the bike ran fine.

[loboboy]

Hey we need a photo post that does the TPS adjustment also.

[JINKSTER]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] (loboboy @ Mar. 01 2006,15)]I have a question, how did you get your bike to start without the IAP air press sensor hooked up? I can never get mine to start without it hooked up.

you hook the iap sensor to the inboard nipple of the #4 throttle body....the same nipple where you disconnect the small vacume hose that goes to your "P.A.I.R."...and use that one for your iap sensor hose...like so....



I removed my P.A.I.R. system so that one gets a 5/32ths vacume cap now.

EDIT/PS: You'll also want to actuate your "Fast Idle/Choke" lever to keep'er running to hold an idle with the airbox off like that.

Hope that helps and....L8R, Bill.



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[JINKSTER]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] (loboboy @ Mar. 02 2006,07:43)]Hey we need a photo post that does the TPS adjustment also.

actually?.....no....you don't....as I just recently learned that if you screw with that TPS at all?...you'll #### up your E.C.U. in a big way..and as I understand?...it's a major biotch to recover and get the TPS to that same exact spot to once again give your factory mapped ecu a proper read again...in other words?...

Kids?...DON'T Try This One At Home!

L8R, Bill.

[Pipefighter248]

Just got done sync'ing my TB's. Great writeup Jinks, come in handy.
For anyone looking for the Throttle body sync tool, MAWONLINE has the Motion Pro econo kit on sale for $33.95 plus shipping.

[JINKSTER]

Ya'll need to pay attention here...and your busa will thank you in spades with a smoother, stronger, vibe free running engine...and btw....."synching" should be part of a routine tune-up/maintainance....should be checked and adjusted as necessary on any new bike and about every 7K-10K miles thereafter.

L8R, Bill.

[Wag]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] (JINKSTER @ Mar. 22 2006,18:14)]Ya'll need to pay attention here...and your busa will thank you in spades with a smoother, stronger, vibe free running engine...and btw....."synching" should be part of a routine tune-up/maintainance....should be checked and adjusted as necessary on any new bike and about every 7K-10K miles thereafter.

L8R, Bill.

Amen!

--Wag--

[rubbersidedown]

moved to maintanance and DIY.

Rubb.

[JINKSTER]

just a friendly "bump" reminder here folks...do this...it's more than worth the effort and the gage will pay for itself the first time you use it. L8R, Bill

[gwhunran]

I am glad I came across this post. I thought I wouldn't have a need for my morgan carbtuneII after getting the busa. I got it for my old gs1000. It uses steel rods instead of mercury so there is no danger of sucking up the mercury into the engine.

[CorrodedAlien]

Great write up and follow ups!!! This is one of the reason's I'm on this board....

[05BusaLe]

Great write up Bill, and BTW I have "special tools need for blocking off the metal balance tube of the yics for individual carb synching" for my 82 Seca Turbo, what a PITA to sync the carbs on that bike.
L8r,
David

[05HayabusaR&B]

Originally Posted by [b

Quote[/b] (Oldroller @ Feb. 26 2006,12:57)]I had mine done last Thursday at the dealer along with my oil change and tuneup. They said it wasnt due until 7,500 miles but went ahead and had them do it a little early so I wouldnt have to go back. All the work I had done was $200 and I have no problem paying that. I'd rather someone who knows what they're doing work on my bike. I'd screw it up for sure and besides, I really hate working on anything mechanical. I guess some people enjoy wrenching like I enjoy riding, golf, skydiving, and a million other things. Time is precious!

OldRoller where on Earth is this dealer ?? My dealers Mechanic's look stoned all the time... And I want to be able to say yes I did torque that bolt correctly, while running 150 mph.

[issy_busa]

I've synced the carb on the old FJ, but didn't know you needed to do it on a FI bike. I guess I'll wait until I see 7500 on the clock.

[Astrogoth]

How much are the readings supposed to change as you adjust the screws? Mine bounce over an inch, sometimes. After doing the adjustment as best I could it does seem to run more smoothly. A bit quieter too.

[LE BUSA]

Thanks for taking the time to step by step this process. A job well done indeed.

[micbusathens]

all right !all of you convinced me to manufacture a sync kit by my own.It cost me round 120$ and today I used it.The readings where exactly the same on all manometers (round 0.4 bars).My bike runs 12000 miles without visits to mechanics at all.

[xtremarine]

PIT made it to JAPAN with me but she's off so I'm glad I found your POST hopefully this will fix her. Thanks Bill for the write up.

[071300r]

you are right about the spark plug, The electrode facing the intake valve, however like it was stating the pain in the butt for the .001 hp gain you would get is not worth the time. Now there are plugs that do that for you they come with 2 or 4 electrodes on them so your have a better shot at getting it there without the stress.

[elmostro]

by the haynes manual i need to put a plug to the nipple where vtv conects to in #1 t-body. is that nessesary?