Head And Cam Worth The Money

RSXtypeS

Registered
Is the head and came package worth the money? I have a brocks full exhaust and lowered. I also have a Bazzaz quick shifter. I just need the opinion of a person that has went this route.
 
It depends on what you want. I think ported head and cams are generally considered to be worth somewhere around 13-15 hp. I have a buddy that did this over the winter. We'll see what he gains this spring.
 
Everyone keep urging turbo! I want to stay at all motor set up. I just want around 200hp at the back wheel.
 
Everyone keep urging turbo !

I want to stay at all motor set up .

I just want around 200 hp at the back wheel .

Just a reminder that PirateDiverJeff has never had his motor apart ~ and you can make good power at sea level naturally aspirated with a Gen 2 . . .

Dyno%20Sheets%20and%20200-55%20Tire%205-23-15%20002_zpsknuxtlng.jpg
 
I just had a full alien head brocks exhaust installed. I had it dynoed and mapped. 182hp 108 ft lbs of torque. STD. I have a bazzaz Qs4 quick shifter. I'm lowered 1in up front and 2 inches in the rear. I also have the Street version K&n air filter.

I must be missing something. I have the 20in alien head. Does the shorter one make more power or something? They should be within 1 or 2 hp right??
 
I just had a full alien head Brock's exhaust installed.

I had it dynoed and mapped.

182hp 108 ft lbs of torque. STD.

I have a bazzaz Qs4 quick shifter.

I'm lowered 1in up front and 2 inches in the rear.

I also have the Street version K&N air filter.

What mods does Jeff have ? ? ?

His Gen 2 is very similar to yours with short stacks ~ his bike was tuned at sea level & you can feel it everywhere . . .

Busa%202-26-2016%20002_zpspdjeic6o.jpg
 
I just had a full alien head brocks exhaust installed. I had it dynoed and mapped. 182hp 108 ft lbs of torque. STD. I have a bazzaz Qs4 quick shifter. I'm lowered 1in up front and 2 inches in the rear. I also have the Street version K&n air filter.

What mods does Jeff have??

You also have to remember that jeff is at sea level, that makes a difference. Don't know what elevation your at. Also keep in mind that his bike may have been on a happy dyno. Your guys may be a little stingy. All these things make a difference on the numbers. Unless your wanting a dyno queen then the numbers don't really matter. The important thing is is your bike happy with the tune. Consistent A/F numbers and a nice smooth power arch with no stumbles. Don't get to hung up on numbers that isn't the important thing.
 
Ok. That's makes sense. I'm about 1000 feet above sea level. A few poeple have told me that this guy's a dyno is kind of stingy. From his dyno sheet he is in CA and I'm in SC. About a 3000 mile difference. Lol

My bike does run strong. To me anyway.
 
Last edited:
You can't compare SAE to STD. STD normally will bias the peak numbers in a positive manner, so if you want to make comparos, RSX, get a copy of your dyno chart with the SAE correction factor, you might not like it, but being "happy" or "stingy" as far as dynos go can be a keyboard stroke away. . .
 
I have heard of people playing with the barometer on the yno and could get "HAPPY" readings

That is not only true, it is dishonest to the max and easily checked. Just ask for both your "before" and "after" dyno charts showing the run conditions; compare them to each other, and to the barometric pressure recorded on that day by your local weather service. You will easily find out if you are dealing with an honest shop or some schmuck trying to be a hero. The before and after charts are so very important, and so is presenting these results using the SAE correction factor.
As a dyno tuner, I target air/fuel and hope my corrections result not only in more horsepower and torque, but better and more linear throttle response. Sure, I would like everybody's bike to make 5,000 hp, but it is the drive-ability of the overall tune that is the first best impression any customer appreciates. One other thing - in targeting the correct afr, whatever that bike does, it does, and it is the combination of a number of things a tuner has no control over besides air/fuel.
 
Hey I have a question I have a 2011 Busa what's a good head cam and piston set up to use want to be able to ride it on the street
 
Hey I have a question I have a 2011 Busa what's a good head cam and piston set up to use want to be able to ride it on the street
Hi. I would sat 13 to 13.5 to 1, web cams. The head Ward Carpenter, SAE Outlaw, Boosted Cycle Perf. What are you using the bike for? How much HP do you want? How much $ do you want to spend? Turbos are a lot of fun. But the motor is only as strong as the weakest part. My motor turbo + NOS. head work Inconel valves custom ground cams by Web,custom JE pistons, custom rods by C P Corrillo and a Marine billet stroker crank. Trans outside output shaft support and all Robinson gears. Clutch MTC Gen 2 lock-up with air assist. And a lot more. Bike is built for LSR racing and street.
 
Hey I have a question I have a 2011 Busa what's a good head cam and piston set up to use want to be able to ride it on the street
:welcome: to the best all 'round site there is. How long have you been on a Busa?
I think "all motor" is a cool way to go.Some say more reliable than turbo,not a nasty on a motor as spray. Its a personal choice thing as far as how much you want to spend...how much horse do you wanna chase. You should read thru the "all motor" forum on here and learn from the experts.
As member shade up there ^ mentioned...2200 for 20. I would decide early on if yer gonna split a motor for new pistons why not go all the way,or perhaps don't bother. 2200 in parts,but how much on labor? Unless you are going to be the wrench. Then there's the hours on a dyno.
Member @michael parris heuberger knows what he wants,he's reaching for 800+ horsepower...but he has a little more invested than 2200.
rofl.gif

Rubb.
 
Back
Top