Gen 2 Stage 1 Kit Only, How To Keep It Alive?

[FILT166]

Thinking of getting an rcc stage 1 kit only for my gen 2 bike.
Just the stage 1 kit they sell, no other options right now as my budget sits around this price.
I also have the funds for a tune as I'm in Texas and there are several tuners in tx.
Just need to decide which tuner johnny cheese, whoever is in Houston or Dallas, but is about 8 hours away.
Maybe one day I'll do the valves, springs, spacer plate etc... but that isn't cheap to do right now so it'll have to wait.

So help me understand or know what will keep this stock engine alive with 4 #s of boost?
I've read where some have blown their stock engines but none really say why or how it blew.
Also, what's to guarantee that 93 octane coming out the pump is actually 93 octane?
I thought about adding a gallon of c116 to the tank but that can get expensive at $16 a gallon, but should be a good measure of safety for a stock engine. Or maybe a 1/2 gallon a full tank.

Don't be afraid to talk poop, the truth or anything else in this post as it's all good.
I also did a little search in this forum and didn't find what exactly I wanted to know.
If it's there, send me the link so I can read up.

 

[turbojonny]

4 lbs on pump is fine on the stock gen 2's with an RCC stage 1. The fmu is the weak link. They have a shim that can fail and then the pressure wont rise and the af goes lean, then it melts the top end. Ask Richard about the 1 to 1 regulator option. FMU's blow!
Some kits have boost creep (not his) and that can turn 4 lbs into more (bad thing).
Also, as I understand it, his new kits call for mounting the fuel pump by the rear shock top and NOT above the engine case. This was a problem, as the pump would get hot and cause vapor lock, which then made the af go leanand then...well...you know the rest.
The beauty of his kit is that it can push 400+ hp. You'd need rods, a spacer or pistons, stainless valves, heavier clutch and valve springs, but if the motor is ever apart it's maybe a 3-4 k build. He also sells a l/a intercooler that will let you safely run 18 lbs on pump.

 

[shade]

If you stay at 4lbs you don't need to do anything to the motor.
1:1 regulators are what come from the RCC kits fmu have went by the wayside.
Make sure to get a blow off valve option.
As for fueling it's my opinion - no need to use race fuel. Use 93 and torco.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

A blow off valve is money well invested on a street bike when you're in and off the throttle all the time. A blow off valve is cheaper then rebuilding a turbo down the road.

So what do you need to make it last? An Rcc stage 1 kit with blow off valve, and a good tune. We're located in Houston and would be more then happy to work out a deal on a turbo kit, and take care of the tune as well.

To address what the other guys have said about the fmu. The fmu is still the standard in Rcc stage 1 kits for GEN 1 hayabusa's. There's no 1:1 regulator option. Reason being the gen 1 ecu's do not do boost referenced fueling like the gen 2 ecu does along with having 8 injectors. That why the gen 1 needs an fmu. For one, it's a 1:8 ratio to force the injectors to flow more then what they are rated via 90psi of boosted fuel pressure, and two the stock ecu even with a Reflash does not have a boost fuel algorithm.

But before knocking an fmu entirely, the Rcc fmu's are awesome. They DO NOT have the shims in them that tend to fail like other manufacturers. So in theory their fmus could last just as long as a 1:1 regulator.

With our tunes and an Rcc kit the only time you may consider a splash of race fuel is if you know you're going out to do big nasty 200+mph pulls on the freeway. Other then that 93 pump fuel is fine. If you go to the Texas mile, then yes c16 is recommended.

And a side note, no 93 octane is actually 93 octane. There's always that little note that says "may contain up to 10% ethanol", which from our tests show is almost always 8-10% you'll never get true 93, or any advertised octane raiting for that matter.

 

[turbojonny]

He has a Gen2. Love the gen2's fueling, wish they had stainless valves and heavier springs. Love the ecu capabilities. Overall a great platform for 230hp.
I thougjt the new fms still used shims? Im betting I got one of the lasr shim fmus out of RCC. Since the 1 to 1 will work with a gen 2 I'd get that option, as it will be used if you upgrade.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

If you know what you are doing you can make the old style shim type fmu work great for quite awhile, but they have indeed gone by the wayside in favor of the newest shimless design by Begi. RCC makes a better version used on their Stage One kits for Gen 1s. It works just fine. The Stage One for Gen 2s is an Ecu Editor kit with the ability to boost fuel through the ecu at different boost levels. it comes with a 1:1 regulator, and can easily make over 430 rwhp with a built motor on fuel. This kit has nice range with a good turbo and can be bolted to a stock motor at 4 lbs and live at 93 if the tune is good and the ecu flashed right - their shouldn't be an issue if you don't hold it wide open for five miles. This kit uses a Tial gate with dump pipes and does not creep.

Relocating the fuel pump behind the motor was a better idea than the old location under the tank, and if you want to make 400 rwhp on pump all day, opt for the Ultra 1000 water to air plenum - that kit for a Gen 2 (still an ecu editor kit) is right around $8500 - the Ultra 1000 alone is $3,000, and you still need the heat exhanger, pump, lines, etc. Bottom line is that it is a great kit, there are even optional turbos that can take you over 500 rear wheel.

RCC gives you a lot of choices, a lot of flexibility. Decide what you want, check your finances, and go for it. Just remember to build the motor for the boost you are running and get a good tune, and don't forget the ecu . . .

 

[turbojonny]

I love my ultra plenum. Never once had to run race fuel. I did the $ per mile math and the plenum paid for itself very quickly via not having to buy race gas. When I tore the bike down the pistons were as new. RCC knows there stuff.
With a few engine mods the gen2 busa is probably the best 400 hp streetable bike on the Planet.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

He has a Gen2. Love the gen2's fueling, wish they had stainless valves and heavier springs. Love the ecu capabilities. Overall a great platform for 230hp.
I thougjt the new fms still used shims? Im betting I got one of the lasr shim fmus out of RCC. Since the 1 to 1 will work with a gen 2 I'd get that option, as it will be used if you upgrade.

No sir, the new Rcc fmus are shimless.

You also don't have an option with the gen 2 stage 1, it only comes with a 1:1.

 

[Gunther Bump]

I'm planning on going this same route very soon on my recently recovered Gen 2. As a side question, any trustworthy tuners near Fort Walton Beach, FL? I wouldn't want to make a 10+ hours trip to Houston to see you Boosted unless necessary. Plus once I add extras I'd have to ship it back to you and that would be a pricy hassle to deal with.

 

[busakiller]

Gunther bump

From all the reading and research in have done. It sounds like the 3 guys talking know alot about turbo bikes and making them last. Johnny cheese, boosted cycle, and powerhouse. It would be money well worth spent and hassle shipping the bike back and forth. To get a bike well tuned and that will last. Then going to some local that doesn't have much of a clue or wants you to use a power commander to tune the bike the easy and cheap way for them. If I ever go turbo I would ship it to them. Spend more up front but save it down the road. Spend less now and spend way more then you should of down the road.