Need replacement screws for master cylinder\'s caps

OB_valklex

Registered
I changed my clutch fluid over the weekend, and the first thing I have to deal with was stripped screws. I can't believe the cheap metal used on these screws: I used the correct size screwdriver, but the screws were too tight to withstand torque to get unscrewed; I had to drill them out. Since I don't want to be drilling/replacing screws every time I change brake fluid, does anybody know of an alternative screw (maybe s/s)?
 
Not only the size, but the type and condition of the screwdriver are important, as anyone who has ever tried to take apart a set of Mikuni carbs must know.

If they are Phillips screws, make sure you have a high quality, heat treated screwdriver or bit with which to remove the screws and when you put them back in you could put some anti seizing compound on them.
 
I took mine apart when new just to add the never sieze, the screws are so small the threads just dont have a lot of meat on them.

If you end up needing to replace the oem master, the Brembo Radial master cylinders are a fine choice over the OEM Nissin units.
 
Not only the size, but also the quality of the screwdriver is important. Some phillips head screws require a #3, rather than a #2 bit and that can also cause problems.

Also, if you use stainless and aluminum, make SURE you use anti seize compound as they can interact in the presence of moisture, and then you will eally have some fun on your hands.
 
Jamie I would be suprised if Yoyodyne makes a titanium scress that small. Fred sells ti not SS.

Try a company like J&L Industrial or the like for taps and such to clean up what thread may be left.

If the threads are wasted just buy OEM screws and some never seize should end the story. Sometimes a impact screwdriver will do the job to remove these delicate screws as the weight of the tool with a little tap to set the screw bit head turned under hand pressure will do the trick. NO you dont need to hit it with the Hammer :)Just tap to set the bit and turn gently.
 
Thanks guys. The master cylinder is okay, and I actually hit the screws with a soft rubber mallet. The metal is so crappy that the screwdriver went in like if it was plastic. I changed the fluid and put them back for now, but I just snug them enough to prevent fluid leaks. I hope suzuki doesn't want to sell me the whole damn master cylinder just for the screws.
 
Believe it or not, there are at least two fastener types that look like "Phillips". One absolutely requires a "non-pointy" tip (hence the previous advice to grind off the tip). It is used extensively in automated manufacturing, called "Pozidriv" or similar. See http://www.wihatools.com/indexes/indxpozi.htm for pics. Use a pointy Phillips and you'll screw it up (so to speak) every time.
 
What's a good source for stainless or ti hex drive screws. EVERYTIME I encounter a Suzi "Phillips" screw I end up stripping it. I am extremely careful to use the correct size screwdriver. I have tried an impact driver without success also penetrating oil. I just love hammering on the alloy subframe. I end up chiseling a slot then using a big flatblade with pliers clamped around it's shaft. F*** what a pain in the a*s.

The pro's on this board have to have a better way, else they would go insane.
 
You couldn't have put it better, Lyle. Guys, I have craftsman & snap-on tools only, and I KNOW HOW TO USE A SCREWDRIVER. I found out where suzuki cuts corners; the same thing happened when I synchronized the TBs, the stupid long screws (2) that hold the stacks against the TBs stripped at the first try (at least use allen heads isntead). I order 6 screws from suzuki at $0.55 a pop for future fluid replacements. It really sucks to buy a $10K bike with disposable fasteners. Thanks for your input!
 
I too have had problems with Suzuki fasteners (most recently with the air cleaner cover screws) and have ordered spares of the more common "expendables" with my prior Suzuki bikes. I did learn early on from my dealer that you should presume that certain of the screws are going to give you a problem and react accordingly; either because they were installed at the factory with thread locker, were installed to tightly, or take a set in the factory paint. In these more frequent trouble spots, such as the clutch or brake reso's, they automatically reach for a small impact driver rather than a standard philips on the first removal. Using these small impact drivers and a similarly small plastic or brass mallet, they break loose without the risk of stripping the heads.
 
Kaw,

Well be surprized because they do. Call Fred and give him your thread pitch. He has some 4mm master cylinder screws in stock.

Don't you hate it when I'm right?

Jamie
 
Fred who? Is he a good source of screws? Phone number or web page would be good.

Thanx.

Someone could make a fortune if they had a ti screw replacement kit for all the cheap steel phillips head screws in the Busa.
 
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