Has anyone checked their Crank Position Sensor?

OB_cbxchris

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Bob, what was the deal about what Micheal at dyno-jet told us about the PC2 having to have stronger current at the ignition sensor pick ups? Did you have that problem..I couldn`t see how that would be if it ran fine without and wouldn`t when plugged up. Both my bikes were in the production run where there can be a problem with the fuel system..thanks again for the info...am now putting new micron pipes on busa..let you know how that goes and how it runs...hurricane screwed everything up here ...and I likewise apologize for no cussing and uninteresting material.....
 
I am trying to check all of my sensors, and especially those that effect ignition (CKP, CMP)
This goes back to my stupid problem with the PC2 when connected. I will say more about it someday when its resolved.

Anyway, Has anyone checked the CKP or cam postion sensor (CMP)? The manual describes the procedure on pages 7-26 and 7-27. I was only able to confirm that the resistence is correct at the sensor after disconnecting the coupler. I can not detect a voltage from the CKP between the green wire + and white wire - as the manual describes when cranking the bike.
Do you need the special multi circuit tester from Suzuki? I have my dealer checking on this meter for Monday since it doesn't even show up in the price list. Can you say back order?
The illustration is wrong in the book. They show someone placing the tester probes into the ecm coupler on the right. The green and white wire go to the plug on the left. I traced the wires from the CKP on your left cover. They start as a blue / green wire, then couple on the left sie of the bike beneath the tank --Green switches to white and blue to green. Then they go into the left ecm coupler. I confirmed through continuity testing that the green and white wires end up at the left ecm coupler.
Sorry to get away from all of the productive chat in the general discussion area these days, but anyone who knows anything about this it would be greatly appreciated.
By the way the peak voltage when cranking the motor is supposed to be greater than 3 volts.

Suzuki's manual is excellent. everything you need. You can check every sensor and can even trick the ecm if your creative enough by placing a variable resistor in place of some of the sensors. (airbox temp, engine temp)
Bob
 
Bob, don't bother buying the Suzuki test meter, it is simply a decent quality digital multimeter. Any of the test procedures in the manual that measure volts should work on any decent digital multimeter.

Now for the testing! Both the CMP and CKP sensors are the older style, "coil" sensor, which makes them quite easy to test. If the resistance between the two wires is good (within manual specs) and from either wire to ground is o/c (open circuit, infinite ohms) (WHEN the coil is unplugged!) the sensor is good.

The most common fault with this type of coil is a heat-caused failure, where the motor will run until hot, and then fail with error code until it cools down again. I have not seen this fault on a busa coil, but quite common on some cars ignition pickup coils.

Now, for testing the coils with the motor cranking, the otherwise excellent Suzuki manual forgets to tell you to turn the multimeter to AC VOLTS, as all coil pickups of this type produce an ac waveform when operating. If you have an auto-selecting meter it will turn to AC VOLTS by itself and give you the right reading, but if you have a normal meter you have to select DC VOLTS or AC VOLTS - depending what you want to measure.

Maybe that's why you weren't getting the right voltage when cranking?

The peak volts from this type of sensor when cranking depends largely on the cranking speed, fresh battery=faster cranking=higher ac volts from sensor. Allow for any reading +/- 30% from manual's specs should be ok. The main test was the resistance test above.

To get back to your PC2 problem, why do you think it is the sensor? Does the PC2 go between the crank sensor and the ECM?? I would like to know more.

For the other board members, I would like to apologise on behalf of myself and Bob, next time we will use more foul language and ZX-12 references, as there is no excuse for posting these dry technical subjects... :)
 
99 TLR--thanks for responding so quickly.
AC voltage--did not check for AC, but i will now. It makes sense, I should have thought of it. Its just an inductance set-up. Break the magnetic field, right?
We can talk about the pc2, but e-mail me i don't want it on the site.
ramair1@flash.net
Maybe we can talk as well over the phone.
Bob
 
99 TLR--I checked AC voltage. Approx. 0.5 volt peak when cranking. The manual says it should be over 3 volts.
Are you sure I do not need to use a special adapter from suzuki?
The manual says" The crankshaft position sensor peak voltage inspection is applicable only with the multi circuit tester and peak voltage adaptor.
I know a Multitester is a multitester is a multitester, but what is a peak voltage adaptor?
I just placed the meter's probe into the female connectors in the ECM coupler plug.
Bob
This check takes 3 minutes--Anybody else try this? The green wire + and white - lead to the left ECM plug towards the edge. Unplug it , place your probes on the terminal then have someone crank the motor for about 3 seconds.

Bob
 
For proper ckp test you need a peak voltage detector circuit which consist of simply a diode and a capacitor or better way you can use oscilloscope.
A multimeter either in DC or AC position , it will measure effective value of voltage which will not give you proper information. Peak voltage must be at least 3V for hayabusa.
 
For proper ckp test you need a peak voltage detector circuit which consist of simply a diode and a capacitor or better way you can use oscilloscope.
A multimeter either in DC or AC position , it will measure effective value of voltage which will not give you proper information. Peak voltage must be at least 3V for hayabusa.
Holy crap! a post being answered from 1999....that has to be a record....

You make @RedBull proud....
 
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